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Air in cooling system, how???

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Old 02-23-2004, 08:27 PM
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Dixie, is the new engine you bought???? what about the warranty??
Old 02-23-2004, 08:29 PM
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Pull that bad boy, and have your head checked (not just by eye) while it's off. It can certainly have a small enough crack that isn't leaking until hot/ under boost.
Do you run high temps?
Old 02-23-2004, 08:32 PM
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I had basically the same thing happen on one semi that I drove. It was pumping water out when warm. It turned out to be a head gasket and it looked just just like you put a pencil line on the gasket. Just out of curiosity did you by chance see if you were getting heat out of the heater when idling? That is one of the other symptoms of a leaking gasket.
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Old 02-23-2004, 09:04 PM
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Originally posted by MnTom
I had basically the same thing happen on one semi that I drove. It was pumping water out when warm. It turned out to be a head gasket and it looked just just like you put a pencil line on the gasket. Just out of curiosity did you by chance see if you were getting heat out of the heater when idling? That is one of the other symptoms of a leaking gasket.
Tom
Heater is normal as long as the water level is up. Of course that would depend on where the heater take off is in relation to the compression leak. On the Dodge it is at the rear of the head, so a leak towards the front would not affect it.

Well I got my answer, it can't be anything but a compression leak, must fire up when hot and of course I can't do that with the pump not connected. It's tear down time, again, and again, and again.

Thanks for all the input.
Old 02-24-2004, 02:44 AM
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HID- I'd simply look into retorqueing the head bolts for grins and giggles.
Friend of mine had the same problems with a new engine (isb) in an excavator.
Retorqued the head bolts and everything OK after three months of operation.
Worth a try IMHO

AlpineRAM
Old 02-24-2004, 08:06 AM
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Hauling,

Check the length of your head bolts and make sure they have not stretched. If so, they could be bottoming out. Just an idea.
Old 02-24-2004, 01:37 PM
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None of the head bolts were as tight as pulling it down other times. Two at #3 cylinder were quite loose. There was a leak at the water passage on #4 cylinder, a good leak.
Old 02-24-2004, 02:50 PM
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Haulin

Did you replace the head gasket and retorque or just retorque the old one?

I might suggest that after an hour or two of running the engine, let it cool off and check the head bolts again. I have been surprised sometimes how much head bolts and gaskets move after a heating up and cool down period.
Old 02-24-2004, 04:40 PM
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Yeah got Cummns newest idea for a head gasket. Hope it is an improvement, it has four metal tabs that keep it from compressing on the ends. Not running yet, later today. Wish it was warmer, I'd just do it in my bathing suit.
Old 02-24-2004, 05:08 PM
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Could be one of two things, You need to pressor up each cylinder to find if it puts air into the rad, could be perferated cylinder wall or a crack in cylinder head. You need to check each piston at BDCenter to look at full cylinder Good luck
Old 02-24-2004, 05:19 PM
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make sure u check the new gasket good i read something about a new head gasket they made that was not correct for every block they didnt specify which blocks though. it allows one of the water passages to leak
Old 02-24-2004, 05:31 PM
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Originally posted by DF5152
make sure u check the new gasket good i read something about a new head gasket they made that was not correct for every block they didnt specify which blocks though. it allows one of the water passages to leak
Yeah I posted that information a couple of days ago. The new one is correct for this engine. Believe that it will only affect the #53 blocks, watch and see. The thicker wall made it necessary to slim down the water port. They superceeded the head gasket using the dimentions of the later block. Although I am not sure which year this new one is, as it was sitting in a wharehouse somewhere for a while, it is the newer build.
Old 02-24-2004, 05:33 PM
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Originally posted by Dieselbuilder
Could be one of two things, You need to pressor up each cylinder to find if it puts air into the rad, could be perferated cylinder wall or a crack in cylinder head. You need to check each piston at BDCenter to look at full cylinder Good luck
I think you missed my earlier post, found the leak, it is obvious:

Quote: None of the head bolts were as tight as pulling it down other times. Two at #3 cylinder were quite loose. There was a leak at the water passage on #4 cylinder, a good leak.


I might add, I pulled the head bolts with a 1/2 impact, never been able to do that before, always had to use the 3/4. Looks like a poor assembly. Retorqing would have fixed it before it was run, but to what specs, they are torqued to a number and then turned 1/4 turn. The threads were also dry with no oil or antisieze on them. They will be put up with compound 22 which is the way I always set them up.
Old 02-24-2004, 05:47 PM
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thats what I am thinkin Bill mabe they no lubed the bolts and or used old ones??????????????/
Old 02-24-2004, 07:02 PM
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Bolts are new but dry, completely. Now I screwed up. Looked at the new gasket and it checked out ok on that water port. Had plenty of time to get another one today. Ready to put it together, lay it on the block, oops wrong gasket. I matched it to the old gasket and the head port is smaller than the block port. Have to get another one in the morning and I also have to pick up two loads in Atlanta tomorrow Supposed to get 1/2 inch of rain tomorrow, I'll be wet


Think I will name the truck Murphy.... If anything can go wrong, it sure will.

It blew to the water jacket on #4 on the bottom and to #3 on the top. The gasket looks real mousy, not near the quality of the new one. Bores all look good (new) compression rings not broken in yet, the oil rings are. Sure looks pretty, all shiny and all. I really had no intentions of looking at it though. It has one minor line on #1 cylinder like there was a particle in there when starting it the first time. Just enough to show in the hone lines.


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