how are the vise grips used?

i have backed off the nut on injectors several turns, just seems the line should be looser. will this be a great amount of pressure leaving the line?

with nut backed off, only seeing small amount of fluid lying on intake.

 

ok have fuel that will now come out of all six lines after hp, left open lines 1, 3 & 6. No start , check engine light on and have noticed the abs light comes on after several cranks. still no go. thanks for the tips on open line #6, it works.


after never noticed the abs light coming on while starting before, the truck usually starts with just barely a crank.

 

The fuel at the injectors should not just be dribbling out, but at a couple of thousand pounds of pressure.
Is it a high pressure stream?

 

I have a puddle of fuel under my truck after I perform this ceremony. Did you ever bleed the system to the banjo bolt on the side of the vp?

 

Don't worry about vice grips until you get that pig started. It's a duct tape and bailing wire fix anyhow.

 

You might be right on the crank sensor however you will probably want to crack the banjo bolt going to the IP then bump the starter to start the lift pump. this will tell if you have pressure to the IP.
If the Crank sensor on a 99 is bad it will send false readings to the computer. I had a bad crank sensor and the truck would not fire up. It is located just above the dipstick entre to the block. driver side and has a three wire connector on it.. Note it is right above where the motor dipstick tube enters the block. you can see it by looking under the truck above your starter. Hope this helps...

 

I too had the Crankshaft Position sensor code and the truck will not fire. Not if the IP is bad. Also there is no doubt there is fuel when everything is ok. Just loosen an injector line and drive 50 miles. I can say you will not have rust forming under the truck for the rest of that year.

Of late there have been a number of VP's going out with CPS codes showing up too. From what I could test my CPS was still good in that it would indicate when a metal object was passed in front of it similar to any Hal effect that we use at work. I didn't test the new one however.

There is a test that DC can use to test the VP however I don't have it. It's around here someplace or in the main shop manual. Probably not something that could be done in the back yard unless you are familiar with it.

As far as the first question goes, when my IP quit I was able to get a very small amout of fuel out of the injector lines while cranking it, but nowhere near what will come out now with the new pump.

I put a new CPS in and it did not start. Just as before. I would do it here then get a new IP.

JMHO

 

I may be too late for you but you should check your check valve that is in the banjo bolt where the fuel return line exits the injector pump. You can also have someone turn the key forward so the lift pump runs and put your ear to the fuel tank(cap off). You may hear fuel running back to the tank. I had this same problem on my 99 CTD and it was the check valve. Everyone was telling me it was the IP, but lucky I was a little hard-headed.$40 bucks to fix.I also added an after market check valve before the IP so my VP-44 always has fuel when i change my filters.

 

Hey! What are your codes? Or, did you do that already?

 

never checked the codes after it started...never ran better though.

 

ok guys UPDATE

replaced filter, lift pump and vp44. it was a JOB on the vp but it went well, took vacation tonight so could get this bad boy run'n.

crank crank and more crank no start with injectors cracked very little fuel as before. called the shop where i purchased the vp, older gent who's been do'n it for some time on fuel pumps and injectors and asked him if he had the BANJO BOLT WHICH IS A CHECK VALVE on the return line to the tank, checked, had it, said if i would come get it he'd give it to me ($34.50). wife picked it up on way home, just installed it.

Crank crank RATTLE RATTLE. the freak'n checkvalve was bad, $1400 plus spent to find out check valve was bad.

HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE ELSE FROM DOING THE SAME

 

- glad to hear that you're up n' running, sorry it was such a nightmare getting there!

On the UPSIDE....now you have gauges and a known-good VP?

What's the R & R procedure on the check valve? Where is it located? It may be a good item to have floating around under the back seat.....

 

I thought the check valve was mentioned earlier in the thread - it's one of the basics for a VP along with dry-rotted lines, bad LP, etc.

Oh well - never hurts (except in the vicinity of your wallet!) to have new parts on the truck...

 

look at thread #23...might be a lot of people's trouble when they are told to change the injector pump.

 

i couldn't agree more brother. thanks for your post though.

the gentleman that owns the diesel injector shop stated that the life of the pump will last the life of the motor as long as it is kept in supply of fuel. meaning 5psi min supply. was hoping to talk with him today when i returned the core, but he was out do to family emerg. he felt real bad when i called him after installing the new pump and seeing your post #23. he gave me the check valve that evening, left it outside his shop for my wife to pick up on her way home (his shop is 30plus miles from home), could not wait to try it and it was probably around 10 oclock when i got it on, needless to say the neighbors knew she was running again. my dad stepped out on the front porch (neighbor #1) HEY SOUNDS BETTER NOW. this was much rest from all the cranking before and it was quite loud with three lines cracked for bleeding. his powerstroke you cannot even hear if it's running when the dodge parks beside it, this is what i've been driving back and forth to work.
sis (neighbor #2) told my wife when dropping nephew off the next morning "Heard Bub last night, Guess he got it fixed"

again thanks