hey i know its not a dodge but i hear some of you have had em. my truck is stalling out on my if i accellerate to hard or stop to fast. i changed the filters and ran some biocide through it. no luck any suggestions

 

It could be the fuel pump, does it do it all the time, or just when the tank is empty?

If I recall, the last time I did a GM fuel pump, it was in the tank. It was easier for me to lift the bed (with 3 other friends or a hoist) than drop the tank. I think I have some pics of a recent job I did on a buddy's truck, but it was a bit newer.

Have someone else turn the key to 'ON' while you stand where the cab and the bed meet... listen to the pump prime. It should be a steady whine. If not, it could be a bad pump.

It could also be a few other things, but that is the most common. If you can get it by an Auto Zone, have them check the codes.

PM me if you need fuel pump pics.

 

Diesel or gasser?

That is the first year of the electric IP pump. Does it have the updated IP driver? They usually dump totally when they go though.

 

Yeah, that's a good question... I'm talking about a gas motor...

 

If you've got a check engine light, you can check the codes yourself with a paperclip. You'll have a diagnostic link under the driver's dash. Take a paperclip and insert into the two positions on the top row closest to the passenger's side. From there turn on the key (do not crank it), and the check engine light will flash the codes out. If if flashes once, pauses, the flashers twice, that's a code 12. Each code it has will flash three times. Also the first and last codes you see will be code 12s, the first telling you the vehicle is in diagnostic mode, and the last will be telling you that its finished. Any codes in the middle are trouble codes and should be dianosed accordingly. Although honestly it sounds like you might have a throttle position sensor going bad, but don't hold me to it, check it first instead of throwing parts at it.

 

sorry. it is a diesel. the lifter pump in the tank has been stuttering since i bought the truck 3 or 4 months ago

 

it does it regardless of the amount of fuel in the tank. i was sort of wondering if it had to do with running it out of fuel on the way to the punps the day i bought it.

 

It could very well have something to do with it considering that fuel (doesn't matter in general terms) acts as a coolant to the pump until the tank is empty. And with all electric motors/pumps, heat is the enemy. The truck could have been run low of fuel for so long that the boost/lift, whichever you might call it, has finally decided that it just doesn't like you anymore.

 

blue, was there some specific reason you ran the biocide, or just it had been setting and you did it for prevention?

Doubt it has anything to do with running out of fuel. How many miles on the truck ( Pump ) if known?

 

270,000 or so. i thought my return line was clogged and i wanted to see if it helped

 

Ok, I would check to make sure your transfer pump is still working properly. I have no experience with the newer 6.5's, on my old 6.2 it had a mechanical LP, is the 6.5 the same way?

 

i believe it is electronic and from what the haynes book says, it is integral with my sending unit.
i think that it is unable to build pressure because it sounds like a jack hammer with a bad seal and it runs up to 20 minutes after i shut the truck off. i am gonna try and pull my bed to get at tomorow.
winter suck for working under trucks outside in the muddy snow

 

Did a little research, they show it mounted to the frame rail from 92 till the end of production of the 6.5.

I wondered as I had never seen an integral unit before.

You got lucky!

 

when you change the electric fuel pump on a 6.5

It is a plunger pump, not a vane pump, so you will hear it tick as it runs.

It is controlled by an oil pressure sending unit in the valley, near the left rear of the intake manifold, underneath where the fuel filter housing bolts on.

When this oil pressure switch fails, it kills your lift pump. The switch fails because it is built to handle a max 1.9 amp load, and the LP runs at 2.8 - 3.5 amps.

Best thing you can do, when you change the pump, is change that switch as well, then use the purple wire from the switch, to trigger a bosch relay, and run good clean power to the pump, from the battery, through that relay.

Hook it up with the purple wire to pin 86, then purple ( stock wire ) from pin 87 to the pump. Run a wire from B+ to pin 30, and another wire from pin 85 to ground. To make it double redundant, hook the B+ wire to an ignition controlled power source.

This will allow the LP system to function in the stock fashion, where a loss of oil pressure will cause the LP to shut off. Also, the LP won't run unless the key is in the "run" position.

Good luck. If you have any other issues, PM me.