It's probably the worst thing you can do. When you pull the element up out of the full canister fuel will flush the particles stuck to the dirty side of the filter down into the canister. For sure some of the flushed particles are going to end up on the clean side of the new filter.
Best practice is to empty the canister and clean it well especially the WIF sensor probes.

 

Uh, yeah, that's what I do, yeah, that's the ticket.

<note to self>..............learn to properly change fuel filter on new truck........

 

I fill my oil filter, but not the fuel filter. Don’t forget to fill the air filter, you wouldn’t want you truck to crank with no air.

 

Don't laugh - most guys on here don't bother to ever change their turn signal fluid!

 

I do that every 3,000 miles, and my brake light fluid every 10,000

 

Why are you using the heavy-duty service schedule for your turn signals, and the standard one for your brake lights?

 

He doesnt stop much????????????????????????

 

I use the transmission to slow down, that and I'm using a synthetic fluid for the brake lights.

 

I drain the filter first with the drain valve, then put the new one in and close it up empty. Let the lift pump fill it. I connect a hose (FP guage adaptor host) to the schrader valve on the VP44 into a clear container to purge the air out. I don't know if that's necessary but it makes me feel better.
Oil filters, I've been prefilling those things for years. But everytime I do, I wonder if it's the right thing to do. Haven't had any problems with it so far.

 

I prefill the new oil filter with about 24 ozs. of oil prior to installation. I also try to clean the area around the oil filter housing so that I won't get any debis in the filter while I'm trying to install it.

When I change the fuel filter (12 months or 10k miles), I completely drain the FF canister and then wipe the the inside with a lint free cloth. I leave the drain valve open and pour clean, filtered fuel around the inside of the cannister to try and wash out any possible debris that may be left. Then, I close the drain valve and fill the cannister about half full with clean, filtered fuel before I install the new filter.

I filter the diesel fuel using unbleached (brown) No. 4 coffee filters into a clean glass container. It takes quite a few coffee filters to strain about 16 ozs. or so of fuel. The filters tend to clog up in a hurry. I've been using this approach since 2001 and so far no problems. I got the coffee filter idea from the TDR website.

 

Man I drain it wipe with a rag.... Put a filter in.. Bump starter and go!!

 

I agree with you on pre-filling the oil filter , I was just offering a "for instance", and i guess i could have been more specific , on the CAT engines in OTR trucks , and heavy equipment , pre-filling is a big no no , according to CAT. i always 3/4 fill my engine oil filter , but i watch to make sure nothing bad gets in there.

 

I have a question for the ones who add sea foam when the change there fuel filter, WHY. The reason I ask that I have always been told that putting Alcohol in your fuel is a big no, no at any time unless it is aready in a fuel additive used to de-ice gelled diesel fuel. I've been told its hard on the fuel parts so I don't understand why anyone would want to use it when they don't have a gelled fuel problem. Their is also a warning in the owners manula to not use it. BTW, I have read what they print on the sea foam can and know there is better addittives that will not hurt the fuel system and still clean your injectors safely.

 

Well, there's no accounting for taste....

 

fuel filters go in bone dry and lift pump used to prime them...

lube oil filter gets filled within 1/2" of the top through the dirty side of the filter [outside holes, i plug the center with a plastic plug]