new diesel owner
new diesel owner
Hi. This is my first diesel and post on this forum so go easy on me.
I am going to pick up my truck tomorrow and know nothing about what to look for besides the obvious. I bought it off Ebay and can still back out if it is not as described. The previous owner used it to pull her horse trailer and I willl use it to pull my 30' TT.
It is a 2001 3/4 ton 4x4 extended cab auto with 114,000 miles on it. She has the maint. records, but what do you consider regular maint. on a diesel? Please help me!!!! I need to get educated so I don't make a major mistake.
The only thing wrong with it is that the fuel gauge does not register properly. Is this common and if so, what is normally the fix?
I am going to pick up my truck tomorrow and know nothing about what to look for besides the obvious. I bought it off Ebay and can still back out if it is not as described. The previous owner used it to pull her horse trailer and I willl use it to pull my 30' TT.
It is a 2001 3/4 ton 4x4 extended cab auto with 114,000 miles on it. She has the maint. records, but what do you consider regular maint. on a diesel? Please help me!!!! I need to get educated so I don't make a major mistake.
The only thing wrong with it is that the fuel gauge does not register properly. Is this common and if so, what is normally the fix?
Fuel gauge is common, hasn't happened to me, but I have heard about it, no biggie. Someone more knowledgeable will jump in here and tell you what to look for, I have an 01.5 with 67K miles, LOVE IT. Would buy abother one in a heartbeat.
I also have a 2001.5 Great truck, never been back to the dealer. 56k miles. It is on its 2nd lift pump though.
If I were buying it, I'd make sure the oil was changed at least every 5000 or so miles, fuel filter should be done every 10k.
Check the fuel pressure if possbile, should be 14-15 at idle. Look out for white smoke at startup... its generall bad news. Black smoke at startup is normal, they ALL do that.
Other than that, check the normal stuff... leaks, noises, fluids, ets.
Good luck with your purchase and Welcome To the Site!
-D
If I were buying it, I'd make sure the oil was changed at least every 5000 or so miles, fuel filter should be done every 10k.
Check the fuel pressure if possbile, should be 14-15 at idle. Look out for white smoke at startup... its generall bad news. Black smoke at startup is normal, they ALL do that.
Other than that, check the normal stuff... leaks, noises, fluids, ets.
Good luck with your purchase and Welcome To the Site!
-D
A stock auto used for pulling might give me some pause, only because of the higher mileage.
There are some nice trucks for sale here on the DTR, you know if you buy one from one of these guys it will have been taken care of and it might have some good BOMB already done. JMHO>
There are some nice trucks for sale here on the DTR, you know if you buy one from one of these guys it will have been taken care of and it might have some good BOMB already done. JMHO>
Well I went and got it and it is just as described. The fuel guage does not work right but I will try to figure that out-any suggestions? It ran fine and got 22mpg at 70mph. I has the 3.55 rear end.
I am sure that I will post more questions as time goes on.
Ps If anyone has an answer for the fuel guage question, please help me.
I am sure that I will post more questions as time goes on.
Ps If anyone has an answer for the fuel guage question, please help me.
Usually, the fuel gauge issue is a bad sender in the tank.
I replaced mine, and the gauge works great now. It's a somewhere about $75 if I remember right, and you have to get it at the dealer.
There are two ways to install it: Lower the tank, or lift the bed. I used the lift the bed method, and it was pretty easy. If you have a short bed, there are 3 bolts on each side holding in the bed, a long bed has 4. Remove the bolts from the drivers side (they're right in the frame rails) and loosen the bolts on the passenger side most of the way. Remove the screws holding the fuel fill neck to the bed. Unhook any electrical connectors under the bed on the drivers side that look like they might prevent you from lifting up the bed a foot or two. Get some blocks of wood (chunks of 2x4 about 4-6 inches long are fine, just have 6 or so on hand) and a buddy to help you lift the bed. Lift it up, and use the wood to hold it up. Do it in more than one place, as your head will be under there! Clean up the top of the fuel tank where the lines go in. (the whole unit they go in to and around it, that is) Unhook the fuel and fuel return lines, (They are quick release fittings) and unhook the electrical connector. Be careful with the connector, there is a red plastic safety lock holding it in that must be slid to the side to unlock the connector. Unscrew the big plastic ring, ideally with a strap wrench, (or very light tangential force with a large screwdriver and hammer, but be careful as the rings can break) and you can lift the unit out that contains the gauge sender. Be careful with this unit, as it holds fuel in it, and you'll likely spill a bunch of fuel if you tip it.
You'll see what to do next based on the part you bought, and re-assembly is pretty simple.
Have fun!
I replaced mine, and the gauge works great now. It's a somewhere about $75 if I remember right, and you have to get it at the dealer.
There are two ways to install it: Lower the tank, or lift the bed. I used the lift the bed method, and it was pretty easy. If you have a short bed, there are 3 bolts on each side holding in the bed, a long bed has 4. Remove the bolts from the drivers side (they're right in the frame rails) and loosen the bolts on the passenger side most of the way. Remove the screws holding the fuel fill neck to the bed. Unhook any electrical connectors under the bed on the drivers side that look like they might prevent you from lifting up the bed a foot or two. Get some blocks of wood (chunks of 2x4 about 4-6 inches long are fine, just have 6 or so on hand) and a buddy to help you lift the bed. Lift it up, and use the wood to hold it up. Do it in more than one place, as your head will be under there! Clean up the top of the fuel tank where the lines go in. (the whole unit they go in to and around it, that is) Unhook the fuel and fuel return lines, (They are quick release fittings) and unhook the electrical connector. Be careful with the connector, there is a red plastic safety lock holding it in that must be slid to the side to unlock the connector. Unscrew the big plastic ring, ideally with a strap wrench, (or very light tangential force with a large screwdriver and hammer, but be careful as the rings can break) and you can lift the unit out that contains the gauge sender. Be careful with this unit, as it holds fuel in it, and you'll likely spill a bunch of fuel if you tip it.
You'll see what to do next based on the part you bought, and re-assembly is pretty simple.
Have fun!
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