93 Ramcharger -> 12V
 

Well, some of you may know, I've been hanging around DTR for quite a while and while a pretty new HPCR isn't in my future ... a 12V 93' Ramcharger is ... I think.

I just picked up a 93 Ramcharger, specs: 318, 4x4, A-518, NP241, D44 front, 9.25" rear ... see pics here (I'll post some in my galley soon, but these were taken by the former owner).

http://community.webshots.com/album/566012868OtndlR

I'm going to admit, this will be my first major auto project, I know cars, but don't have the tools to do a significant amount of fab work.

So ...

I was thinking that the easiest swap would be to throw in a 92-93 12V + drivetrain from a 4x4. Picking up some tips from Fred Swanson's and Trooperthorn's builds. Should be almost all bolt-in stuff, right? Something I'm missing?

Questions:
1. Do I really need the 3/4 drivetrain if this is just going to be a road ranger with some very light wheeling possible? I would prefer to do it right with the 3/4 ton 4x4 drivetrain (D60/D70) but 2wds are so much easier to find.
2. I think I remember reading that the bolt patten on my A-518 is different than the bolt patten for the diesel, is that correct? So I'm looking at a transmission swap anyway?

Sorry for the long post, but I've been looking forward to this for a long time and want to walk around all the traps instead of falling into them on a project like this ...

The rear will live assuming no towing and reasonable application of the power. You may find that you need a taller ratio, though. A lot of those trucks have 3.91's out back. If you get a 4X4 RC you NEED to swap a D60 under the front, you will kill the 44 just from the weight.

Yes, you need a diesel trans.

really really clean looking rig!! definitely worth the extra work to fab in the D60/70 front and rear..

Me too check this link this is what im buyin
http://www.high-impact.net/transmiss...88-03_auto.htm


All you have to buy is the peddle assy. thats it!! even lube is included.


I called ATS for a auto trans 618 stage 2 trans. 4450.00 plus 1200 core charge plus 450-500 freight. :o no thanks.

My ramcharger is a 92.. I pulled the 12v out of the donor truck last weekend. I think this is the best route with the nv4500. The 618 or 518 don't have a lockup mode. And for the auto RH trans. you have to buy a bunch of stuff to convert to a lockup flexplate adapter plate adapter for the t-case so its on the correct side etc...[dummy]

ok, how 'bout this idea
 

if we're to get the lockup converter and keep the wiring as simple as possible, then maybe the better plan is to get a 94-95 12V, since it'll still use the OBD1 computer and swap that in...

The heartache with that option is to create mounts and arms for the coilover front suspension on those trucks ... but, that was something I wanted to do in the long term anyway ... swap in a coilover suspension at least in the front.

Would the PCM swap in to control the T/C lockup or would it still be on a switch?

DTR violation
 

alright ... i get it, i talk to much without cutting metal or posting pictures, i've violated the unwritten DTR law ... don't worry ... one day I'll have something worth showing on here. [guitar] [laugh] [laugh] [laugh]

Beautiful looking RC.

My 87 will be getting the 12v out of my rolled truck. Along with the NV4500 and D80 and D60 front. (It was a camper special and had a SRW Dana 80). A bit overkill but it is what I have.

I took all of the molding off my RC, Good news is that there aren't too many holes, it was rust free, interior was in good shape and the price was right.

From what I have heard and others mentioned the 44's don't hold up well to the 12v 1200 pounds. Finding a D60 will be a bit tough, I have to cut my coil buckets off and weld on some custom perches, we'll see how it turns out.

Best of luck, they should run pretty good if the truck was turned up, my should be 2000 lbs. lighter than the 4x4 extended cab.

I like the Blue. Awesome color for a 1st gen body style truck or RC. How is the work progressing?

working on RC, well ... it isn't ... i'll explain
 

I'd love to tell you I have it half ripped apart with a donor truck sitting in the yard, but I don't, the only real work I've done to her is basic maintenance and checking to make sure everything is in working order. So far the truck seems solid, nothing weird to speak of. The ABS light and the parking brake light are on, which I've heard is the rear wheel speed sensor located on the pumpkin, haven't addressed this yet, I'll wait till I don't have to lay in snow to fix it, the truck doesn't fit in the garage with 4" lift and 33 x 12.50 BFGs.

Unfortunately, life got in the way. I moved from STL to Milwaukee to be near my girl again and when I did I had to leave my duplex behind. With the housing market shot, it looks like I'm going to have to hold onto her. I've been trying to sell for 5 months, nothing is moving in the area. Now I'm going to have to rent it out ... supporting two mortgage payments just eats everything up. Once it's rented I can get my cashflow back, but this isn't the time of year people are moving, looks like I have to hold on to spring.

I'm trying to set aside some cash in case the right donor truck comes up. Everything I see is either 5K for a decent runner, or 3K for a truck with a shot transmission. I don't have the skills to pay the bills in regards to a transmission and sending one out to Goerend, DDT, etc will kill my budget for the build.

So I'm just trying to be patient and not get too down being "stuck" as I currently am, I'm just thankful at this point that my g/f and my job seem to not be in jeopardy.

I'm keeping an eye on your truck though with affixed eyes ... she'll look great with 35s on her.

one more thing (for now) ...

I also have basically parked her for the winter since I want to rustproof the old gal before I put here on snowball duty ... they salt around here really bad and I don't want the clean truck I found to turn into a bucket ...

plus, 33 x 12.50s stink in the winter, I had some on a '78 Bronco w/ 4" lift in my younger years and it wasn't all that pretty

Well, I'm sure I could find the answers eventually if I plowed through the search functions long enough ...but, I'm going to ask anyway.

Will dually axles have the wrong offsets to work with a std width application? (i.e. for my conversion)

TIA

Are you talking spring width? My axles are from my 96 (made custom pad for the front axle), but the rear bolted right in, the pad on the axles was a bit bigger but the width was 100%, just bought new U bolts.

Donor Truck
 

Well, it's time to start this, finally ...

I found a donor truck from a fellow DTR member. A little bit of a fiasco getting her home, but she made it in one piece after a long day. Specs below ...

92 4x4 5spd (rebuilt) 3.55 gears, 205K

Right now the truck has an issue. Around 1100 - 1200 rpm the truck coughs and shakes hard. She sounds good at idle and short shifting a lower rpm, put some throttle to her and she spits a bunch. I was given a donor VE from an 89 in case that was the problem. The fuel shut down solenoid is toast, currently a pull cord member (didn't even know this was a common issue until the last few days ...). The truck will do this while sitting in park and manually hitting the throttle, so I think we can rule out a boost leak since it needs load to build boost.

It seems plausible that it's a fueling problem and that if could be anything in the following list, but I'm open to any thoughts.

1. Fuel Filter - checked looks pretty new, bought an extra just in case
2. Injection Pump - bad diaphram, bad AFC (?) etc.
3. Lift pump - toast and causing a restriction in the tank causing low fuel at increased volumes.
4. Hole in fuel line, or at least something to suck air in the line (believe I've read this one before).
5. more?

I'll post some pics once I get some air in the front tires, apparently U haul trailers were made to pull VWs and Cobalts, not trucks ... who knew? We couldn't even get the straps to come down to the ratchets without completely deflating the front tires ...

Sounds like your swap should go a bit smoother. I am not familiar with the VE pump, but it sounds like you may be getting some air in the fuel?? That is what my truck did after I fired it up before the system was purged.

Yours should be more of a bolt on swap given the 1st gen donor truck. You will be very happy once it is done. I have the stock 12cm gated exhaust housing on and it spools nicely for such a light vehicle. I should have a new Thermocouple here in a couple of days and I'll see what the egts are doing, but I don't suspect they are any where near hot as it doesn't have much of a load on it.

Looking forward to pictures, keep up the work, its worth it!!

DzT, everything you are saying is pointing possibly to a fuel issue.

Thanks, I was just trying to list everything that I know could been an issue so incase I missed something someone could point it out or point me in the right direction ...

Alright, finally got a few pictures now that the donor rig can actually be moved around without the use of a floor jack... in no particular order ...

Ramcharger ...

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...harger_Sml.JPG

Donor 92

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...nor_92_Sml.JPG

Ah, the project can begin [guitar]

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...atches_Sml.JPG

... still chasin'
 

I'm still chasing the fuel issue and am looking for some ideas ...

1. I pulled the bed and checked in the tank fuel filter, looked clean - so that's out.
2. I checked as much of the fuel line(s) as I could, it all looks is good condition - so that is probably out.
3. Tonight I pulled the lift pump on the block. After I pulled it I manually actuated the lever, she seemed to pump just fine. I checked the exact spot of the weep hole that's suppose to leak fuel if the diaphragm is shot, it looked good. So, I threw it all back together and started it up to purge the system of air - after she coughed a couple of times purging the air, it settled back down to where it was. I put a piece of cardboard directly underneath the weep hole to check for fuel ... nothing ... so cross that one off the list.

One thing the PO said while I was looking at the truck has stuck with me, he said the last time he was working on it, he fired it up, let her settle down in idle, then rev'd it up and she came up just fine, pulled it out of the garage to road test it, then it coughed just like it does now ...this lead me to believe that it wasn't the injection pump since it wouldn't ever (I would think) rev up properly if the injection pump was shot regardless ... thoughts?

One more thing I should add about the symptoms, is that if you bring the revs up slowly it'll climb pretty far before it starts to stumble, if you jump on the pedal she coughs immediately.

Oh for your viewing pleasure, an engine shot, yes I have some parts running to do ...
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...Engine_ppt.JPG

Have you changed the fuel filter? If so I would still put a new lift pump on. One other thing I might try is a jumper wire from the batter to the shut-off solenoid.

thanks for the tip, I'll try the fuel solenoid tomorrow. The fuel filter looks new (I think the PO was hoping this was the problem and threw on the fuel filter), but I may just throw on another one since I bought one thinking it would be the first thing to check. Maybe I'll throw in the lift pump just for grins, since I've already pulled it out and threw her back in, should be pretty easy to finish off.

Fuel Solenoid - works with jump, KSB - DOA
 

checked out the truck over the weekend ...

Fuel Solenoid - doesn't work with the truck electrics... jumped it, works just fine. The truck runs a heck of a lot better with the solenoid hot wired, but still misses on the top end.

KSB - doesn't work at all ... straight from the battery, no clicking, definitely need a new one.

I don't think the KSB will necessarily "click", if you hot wire it, does the sound of the engine change at all?

Also just because the filter looks new on the outside doesn't mean its new on the inside. A slightly clogged filter could be your "miss" at high rpms, or a weak lift pump.

I would recommend changing the wire ends on the solenoid to a ring type and use the post to screw them down. The center of the solenoid has a screw terminal, using this type guarantee's you a good connection. Also check the fusible links under the drivers hood hinge for any that are burnt up for you're lack of power.

Aaron

Point taken on the filter. I think I'm also going to just throw in the new lift pump, it's only a 100 bucks and the current one has got 200K on it, I don't plan on turning this thing up enough to require a AD or FASS so at least I shouldn't have to replace this part again.

I hot wired the KSB with the engine off so I could listen for the solenoid. I'll give it a shot with her running to see if I can hear something different in the motor. The reason I thought it definitely needed to be replaced if it didn't click is 'cause that's what the FSM stated. But I'm learning that the FSM isn't nearly as descriptive in some regards as I'd like it to be. Considering that from the FSM I thought if the fuel solenoid wasn' working right, the truck wouldn't even start, guess that was completely wrong ...grrrr

Good idea on the KSB wire connection, that would definitely get rid of the electrical gremlin. I might give this a shot at the fuel solenoid as well.

DT, at least on the 4B there are 2 types of KSB, one is called a wax motor style, and uses the electricity to heat up a stick of wax which pushes the plunger out, so that style definitely would not click.

I meant at the fuel solenoid for the electrical connection, that way it doesn't die on you in the middle of an intersection because a spade connector came loose. I don't know if you can do it on the KSB but if you can might as well.

Also good point on the 2 different types of KSB's, what year of truck did you're engine come from?

Oh gotcha, well both the KSB and the fuel solenoid connections can be done, the KSB is a single wire lead, the fuel solenoid is a two wire lead. Tonight was the first night I realized there was a 2nd lead and it was disconnected ... maybe that has something to do with what's going on, but tomorrow I'm going to finish switching over the electrical connections on both the KSB and the fuel to loop type and fire her up.

Manufacturers date on the engine plate is 05-06-92, I don't know how long of a lead time it was between the Cummins factory and Chrysler so it could be a late 92 or early 93, the PO stated it was 92.

So it is the newer intercooled style, so it has the type of KSB where when it has power it advances timing. Yes on the shut down solenoid 1 wire is the main power, the other wire is the ksb power wire, but it runs through the intake temp sensor first.

So power for the KSB comes from the connection at the fuel solenoid, but goes through the intake temp sensor.

make sense?

Aaron

Yup, it does ...

And I'm extremely happy to report after replacing the fuel filter, lift pump, fixing the connections on the KSB and the fuel solenoid she's running good now. [guitar]

I also found some interesting wiring around the fuseable (sp?) links, have to diagnose that later.

Thanks so much for the help and getting her back on track. Fred and patdaly ... thanks as well.

Now all that's left, is everything ... tool shopping here I come!

A lil' help plz
 

Well, I'm having a pretty good Memorial Day weekend ...

So far I've: dropped the driveshafts, muffler, X-case and am almost ready to pull the core support, but I'm running into a snag while pulling the transmission.

I've pulled the crossmember, pulled the slave cylinder completely off, pulled the 4 main bolts that hold the tranmission to the clutch housing but I flat out can't get the transmission to release from the clutch housing. I've looked a few times for a fastener I might have missed, can't find any so far.

Is there some trick to pulling the transmission that isn't in the FSM?

TIA

Its just stuck. It could be the input, or it could be the trans to the bellhousing. Try moving it left to right(rotate) to see if it is bound up, or just stuck. Sometimes, you may need to get 2 screwdrivers on either side and get it start sliding back.

Update & ?
 

I'll get some pics up soon, I've been progressing, but it's been very slow.

Everything is out. Got the X-case, transmission and clutch bellhousing all repainted. But I'm having trouble getting the motor cleaned up ...

The engine is quite dirty, heavy oil deposits, rust, etc ... so my question is ...

How in the world did you guys that painted your motors actually get them clean enough to paint?

I've had success using Easy Off oven cleaner. Apply it only to cast iron, not to aluminum parts.

.

Brake Problem - I'm stumped ... No Sustainable Pedal Pressure
 

OK here is the situation ... I'm on the very last detail of a CTD to RC swap -

I cannot get any sustainable pedal pressure while trying to bleed the brakes. I've been bleeding the brakes by myself using a 3' steel rod and a brick to hold the pedal in place while I pop the bleeder.

Here's what I've done so far.

1. All new hard lines on the frame and axle.
2. Did not take the rear drums off during conversion so they still should be in adjustment
3. New front calipers (couldn't get the bleeders to open on the old ones)
4. I'm using the 3/4 diesel master cylinder and vacuum booster

When I try to bleed the brakes (conventional pump to get pressure, hold pressure, pop the bleeders to get the air out, then shut them before the pressure drops too much to get air back in) I am able to generate pressure. I can go bleed the individual wheel cylinders and I'm quite certain i've gotten all the air out. I spent 4 hours on it one night.

However, when I let the pedal sit for a few minutes, the pressure completely disappears. It'll go straight to the floor boards again.

We (my pops and I) figured the master cylinder was dead so I replaced it last night with a new (not rebuild) one from NAPA. Re-bled the brakes two a couple of hours to ensure all the air was back out of the system.

From the poor drawings in the FSM, it appears the braking systems are slightly different from the RC to the CTD. I'm using the line schematic from the RC - w/ a CTD master cylinder and booster.

Same problem w/ the new master cylinder installed ... any ideas?

Just for giggles, does it have rear wheel ABS? Could be the RWABS dump valve, which is really an accumulator, you could be filling it while bleeding, and with only a small leak back, it could take some time to empty the accumulator.

Something to look at.

It's DONE!!!
 

Well folks I finally have a running vehicle.

Below is a run down of all the items done to the truck during the conversion.

Engine/Transmission:
1. New Water Pump - Cummins
2. New Throttle linkage, Metal - Cummins
3. New Gaskets (intake, front main, valve cover gaskets, rocker, etc) - Cummins
4. New Turbo oil supply line - Cummins
5. Eyelet wire ends for KSB and FSS
6. 1/8" Timing Bump
7. New throttle return spring (found something close @ Lowes)
8. New coolant hoses w/ SS worm clamps
9. Throttle linkage moved to inner hole
10. New FSS (not a pull cable member anymore!)
11. New pilot bearing
12. New throw-out bearing
13. New Block heater cable
14. New Motor Mounts
15. New Transmission Mounts
16. KDP and KTCB done

Fuel System:

1. New Diaphram fuel pump (chasing a problem when I got the truck)
2. New 3/8" Biodiesel compatible fuel lines (SS P-clamps)
3. BC847 (David) modified pickup and return in fuel sending unit
4. Fab'd 304-SS fuel tank straps w/ SS hardware

Steering:

1. New Red Head Steering Box
2. Borgeson Steering shaft (double U-joint)
3. New Feed line
4. Fab'd new return line
5. New Power Steering Pump

Suspension:

1. Front: Stock 3/4 ton springs w/ New U-bolts and new bushings
2. Rear: Rebuilt half tons springs
A. Polyethylene .050"x3"x6" strip in center hole
b. Poly round spring tips
c. Overload removed
d. Upgraded to 5/8" U-bolts
e. Factory 6" Diesel blocks (to match front spring height)
f. New bushings
3. Rear: New swing shackle hangers

Brakes:

1. All new hard lines from distribution block to hubs (fab'd w/ SS P-clamps)
2. New Front Calipers
3. New Master Cylinder
4. New Flex lines from body to axle
5. Rebuilt Vacuum Pump (saved $300 bucks doing that)

Body:

1. Underbody'd coated w/ Chassis Saver
2. Front fenders inner - Chassis Saver
3. Front fenders outer - Chassis Saver inside
4. Modified Gasser Core Support to use Diesel radiator and I/C
5. New turn signal and marker light connectors

Interior:
1. Monstaliner entire floor pan (from manuf. of Chassis Saver)
A. painted two coats of Chassis Saver (aluminum high fill #934)
B. rolled two coats of Monstaliner
2. Removed auto shifter stalk to clean up the look

Axles/Drivetrain:
1. New Driveshaft (35-3/4" - it's so little)
2. New Axle U-joint - Front driver's side)
3. New wheel bearing - front driver's side)

Tires:
1. New Firestone Transforce A/T's 265/75R16 - recommended by local mechanic

As soon as the mods are able to find time and approve the pics, I'll have some up.

Here's the finished rig ...

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/.../FINISHED1.jpg

The blacked out wheel arches aren't the std fender flares, I think those things cause more rust than they prevent so I carried the chassis saver from under the truck and masked everything.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/..._PASS_SIDE.jpg

still running a stock turbo for now ... it may get upgraded to a "new" used unit next year

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...NE_BOTTOM1.jpg

Don't mind the "shiny" of oil film in this shot (I'll explain below)

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/.../500/LINES.jpg

shot of the new fuel lines, brake lines and rerouted electrical with SS P-clamps. New driveshaft from a local company

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...12_10_2075.jpg

rear springs with poly tips. Luckily I didn't have to drill the springs since 1/2 leafs come with factory liners (sliders)

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...INTERIOR12.jpg

You can see the Monstaliner bedliner installed here. I carried the bedliner right up to the edge of the rocker so that when you step in, you don't scuff the paint. The six shooter shifter won't last long. The threads are stripped so I got to buy something different. Anyone know the thread count?

Little tips from me to you ... in no particular order.

1. There is a little triangle facing forward on the transmission crossmember so you don't put it in backwards.

2. Who knew the pushrod cover gasket was asymetrical and actually had "FRONT" labeled right on it. Well I found out when I started the truck up, drove it around block and had oil gushing everywhere. Spent 5 hours fixing that Sunday. Got very lucky I didn't have to pull the injection pump to get it done (because the first bolt doesn't completely come out with the injection pump installed).

3. If you use the diesel transmission crossmember, you may not have to slot the cross member one hole back like most folks do, mine bolted up in the factory location.

4. Don't bother to use header paint on the entire engine. It's worthless until it heats up and chemically cures. Just use good old industrial paint like everything else does on DTR.


:cool: Thanks to all the folks on DTR. This truck wouldn't have happened without all the info and help available on this site. :cool:

TO DO List
 

Still on the list of things to do:

1. Need the vacuum line that goes from the brake booster to the HVAC unit, can't move the selector right now, so all I have is air that blows at me. Anyone have one they want to make a few bucks on? You can't see it in the engine pic, but I have it blocked off with 3/8" fuel line, a screw installed in the end and a worm clamp right now.

2. Windshield wipers only work in "high" no, intermittent (it worked before the conversion)

3. Pretty sure the shocks I swapped over from the Ramcharger (at least the one on the front passenger side) are shot. Need to buy some new ones next year.

4. Electric Fans (next year)

You can see the Monstaliner bedliner installed here. I carried the bedliner right up to the edge of the rocker so that when you step in, you don't scuff the paint. The six shooter shifter won't last long. The threads are stripped so I got to buy something different. Anyone know the thread count?[/QUOTE]

M10 x 1.5mm for the gear shift. The truck turned out great:cool: