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connector tube o-rings

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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 01:18 PM
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heinzboz's Avatar
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connector tube o-rings

I have a leak at #5 injector line connection. It seems to be tight, and I was wondering if it could be the connector tube o-ring, or the tube itself. Awhile back, the line broke right inside the fuel line connector nut. I replaced the line, and ever since then I've had a leak there. I was thinking about pulling the connector tube and checking it out and checking the oring on it. I've never taken one of these out, so any help would be appreciated. How do these things come out anyway? Are they threaded in, or is there a clamp that holds them in? I also need to know what size o-ring these things take. Is there only 1 o-ring to replace? I was looking at the cummins quickserve website, and it shows some little o-ring on the very end of it.

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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 05:33 AM
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00 CTD's Avatar
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After you get the line out of the way, you can pry the tube out with a small screwdriver, it'll just pop out. There's only 1 o ring on the tube, there's a groove for it to sit in.

The part # on QSOL supercedes from 3882589 to 3867043.
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 06:33 AM
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Yep it pops out with just a little pressure. Dodge wanted $55 for a new tube and God knows what for an o-ring so I went to Rocky Mountain Cummins and got the tube $22 and the o-ring for a dollar or two.
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 08:57 AM
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Dodge/Cummins recommends changing the connecting tube o-rings everytime you change injectors.... but I've never seen o-rings that looked bad.
Most guys don't change them and have no problems. I changed my o-rings on the fourth time I pulled injectors but o-rings still looked 100%.

Conecting tubes, with damaged tips can cause leaks. Worth checking. Need to remove the 'set of three' fuel lines to get the connecting tube all the way out. leave the 'three pack' as a unit. (I mention this because some thought they had to do lines individually).

RJ
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 09:45 AM
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I dont mean to hijack this thread but have a question, how does one determine if a tube or o-ring is leaking. Is there a test of some sort, mine is hard to start but once started runs great. Injectors were replaced month ago and since has been hard to start. Wondering if a tube or o-ring may be the problem.
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 09:55 AM
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No test I know of. Whose Stage 1 injectors?
I'd pull everything and inspect. if not o-ring or connectors....probably injectors.

Define 'hard to start'. Any codes?


RJ
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 10:00 AM
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Edge injectors, Hard to start - crank over for about 5-7 seconds then it will catch. If I give up on 1st 5-7 seconds and wait a couple seconds it will start right up. At first try - I cycle heater twice thinking that will help but it does not. If engine is warm it usually starts right up, just a cold start problem
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 10:59 AM
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If you change your o-rings, make sure they are made of Viton, which is diesel resistant. Natural rubber o-rings will weaken and eventually fail when exposed to diesel.
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Mule Skinner
... If I give up on 1st 5-7 seconds and wait a couple seconds it will start right up.
Try bumping your starter and let fuel pump run for it's 20 sec cycle...than try starting. If that works, sounds like loss of prime somewhere.
Were there new copper gaskets on the injectors....or were they replaced?

JC - I'm sure all Cummins o-rings are Viton. I've seen factory o-rings after 240,000 miles that still look brand new!

RJ
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 11:58 AM
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I will try the bump starter trick and see what happens, as far as the copper gaskets, dont know I had a shop do the work.
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by RowJ
JC - I'm sure all Cummins o-rings are Viton. I've seen factory o-rings after 240,000 miles that still look brand new!

RJ
I was just mentioning it in case someone was changing o-rings that didn't come from Cummins. I've seen lots of generic o-ring boxes kicking around.
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 04:09 PM
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I don't think there is a generic o-ring in that size. I was unable to find one.
I also found out that replacing these with brand new ones does not stop a leak necessarily. Instead, remove the tube and remove o-ring from it; clean the groove well. Clean the old o-ring, reinstall it on the tube. Lube slightly with motor oil or fuel and reinstall gently by finger pressure, lightly turning the tube. If it leaks again, repeat the procedure. I had to do it twice on one cylinder and once on another last tile I changed the injectors.
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by PaulDaisy
I don't think there is a generic o-ring in that size. I was unable to find one.
Maybe it's where I've worked...we have just about every size o-ring imaginable...
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 09:00 PM
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When my o-ring when bad, I had leak pooling on the head. Connectory tube looked good, and decided to take a chance with the old one when I found the price of a new one. One thing to remember when installing new o-rings is slide them down, don't roll them.
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 11:24 PM
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Ok, I have another question. I found a connector tube on Ebay, brand new for $11. The part number is 394833. Then I came across some more connector tubes on Ebay, same part numbers, but these ones looked totally different. One set of connector tubes had two little check ball looking things below the oring groove, and the others didn't? The part number shown for my motor off the cummins quickserve website is 394833. I haven't pulled my tube yet (on the engine that is) to see what it looks like. Just wondering what the deal was with the two different looks but same part numbers.

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