Well, with two 5/8" bolts in there, im sure the tires will spin before they can apply enough force to shear the bolts off, well unless its an impulse hit like jerking the sled. No where did anyone mention breaking grade 5 or grade 8s during a run - and all i was trying to add was there is room for improvement. take my advice or not.

 

Did removing your silencer ring increase power any?

 

you're so juvenile

 

......

 

Well here is the finished product. It only cost $52 plus some paint that I had.

 

That looks real good! And real familiar!

 

found the 5 position track and eye for like $30...where can i get the SOLID 2" stock.

 

That's about the best hitch you can make for the money. Mine is just about exactly like that and hit me for about $50 total. I used heavy wall square tubing for the insert though (Couldn't find the solid 2" at the time?).

Need less to say, it's held for 2yrs & 120 hooks or so. I'd say they'll prolly work . As for the Grade 5 vs. 8? Well, I'd say you break the 1 pin holding the hitch to the reciever before the two Grade 5 or 8's are gonna break?? IMHO I'd say either will work fine.

 

I also have an engineering background and lots of downhome on the farm experience. There are different Grade 8's. Made in USA Grade 8 is an alloy of steel or cold rolled steel that is heat treated to meet Grade 8 strength for tensile strength. Grade 8 India or China steel is anodised gold color and fabricated by someone who is old enough to be in....grade 8. ks

 

Back to the bolts...the weak link in Pourin's hitch is not the bolt. There will be a bearing failure ("crushing") of the mount bracket where the holes are pierced. There is no problem with using grade 5 in this application.

Say the mount bracket is 1/4" and the bolts are 3/4" diameter. I am guessing using my eyeballs.

Grade 5 Bolt 3/4" diameter in double shear with the threads excluded is good for 26.5 kips. There are two bolts...so you have 53 kips allowable total.

The allowable bearing would be 4 surfaces x 3/4" dia x 1/4" x 1.2 x Fu.
IT appears to be plain carbon A-36...so say Fu = 50ksi. The allowable bearing strength would be 45 kips.

BUT...

There is another link weaker...a single bolt at the hitch itself. Shear would be
26.5 kips...and most reciever tube is less than 1/4"...but we will call it 1/4" ...max would be 22.5kips.

Ignoring any bending or shear that could happen in the rest of the hitch itself...the hole at the reciever will go first. These are all Allowable Stress Design Values...so they have a factor of safty built in...but it would still tell you what would fail first at a higher load.

Enjoy.... LOL

 

isnt this mod good for 100hp or so.

 

I would like to know where you found that that loop at and where i might be about to find one at and also the hitch as well.

 

look here...

http://stores.ebay.com/ChicagoProduc...QQftidZ2QQtZkm

 

will this work?
its 1/2" plate with a little bigger than a 3" hole in it all welded solid and help to the hitch plate with 6- grade 8 bolts.
im not gonna be sled pulling every weekend, prolly 7-8 times this year.

 

Looks like it would work.