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P-Pump My 24v?

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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 10:59 AM
  #1  
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JIT
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From: Tampa, Fl.
P-Pump My 24v?

It looks like my VP is done! What do I need (besides the pump itself) to convert my 24valve to a P-Pump? I have an idea but with the VP44 being tied in electronically I want to get some info and tips from those of you that have done this already!

Thanks in advance!

Josh
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 03:47 PM
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From: Salem,In.
Here is a start scroll down they list a conversion kit. http://www.haisleymachine.com/PERFOR...20PRODUCTS.htm
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by SmokinDodge12V
Here is a start scroll down they list a conversion kit. http://www.haisleymachine.com/PERFOR...20PRODUCTS.htm
Good deal, thanks for the link! Thats helps a bit for my budget.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 12:00 PM
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From: Randolph Oh
don't forget to add a pump and transfer pump to that price too
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 24valvepuller
don't forget to add a pump and transfer pump to that price too
My current lift pump wont be able to supply the P-Pump?
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 06:04 PM
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From: Airdrie, Alberta
I wouldn't trust a stock LP just cause they suck. I had a FASS for a 24v (20psi unit) that worked just fine. I bought a 45 psi FASS and there wasn't much difference. With a FASS, you could just block off the return line, since the FASS is regulated.

I used the Scheid kit, and it came with the cam sensor relocation and the oil feed line. There is a plug on the outside of the pump that you can remove to feed oil instead of the engine side. Of course, I learned this after the I did the swap. I don't know what kind of linkages come with this pump, but that would be something to look into. I paid the same as what Haisley wants for the stainless line kit, although they don't look stainless. But it came with the oil like and cam sensor kit. You will also need adapters to the fuel feed line, as the p-pump is 14mm and the VP is 12mm. A big line kit would work well. Solenoid is another, unless you go with a pull cable, or as I did, pop the hood to shut it down.

Here is what comes in the Scheid kit. It looks a lot better in notepad when I had it arranged. Any part numbers on the piece or in the bag or here.

Cummins P/N Desc. Qty. Add. Info

4003580 Pump support bracket 1
3924346 Tee fitting (Tee, BRN) 1
3928231 M8x1.25mm x 25mm Torx screw (2) 1
3928898 Fuel Pump Brace 1
3937123 M10x1.50 x 50mm Stud (4) 1
3913994 O-ring, Timing Plug 1
3907998 M5x0.80 x 16mm screw Torx (2) 1 Timing Pin housing screw
3902662 M10x1.50 Flange Nut (4) 1
3969698 O-ring, Pump Seal 1
3804899 Front Cover Lip Seal 1
3915772 Seal Ring 1 Cam Sensor Seal
3913366 M8x1.25 x 90mm Cap Screw 9.8 (2) 1 25mm long thread
3901445 M8x1.25 x 45mm Cap Screw 9.8 (1) 1 25mm long thread
3918673 Front Timing Cover Gasket 1
3938156 Rear Timing Housing Gasket 1 Between Block and Housing
3936256 Timing Housing 1
3931382 Pump Gear 1

Linkage Kit

3938397 Linkage Rod 1
3923158 Linkage Mechanism, Clock Spring 1
3923161 Bracket 1
3931527 Linkage Mechanism 1 Degreed from 59 to 73 degrees
3930407 Linkage Bracket 1 5 Tapped holes
3914353 White Plastic Bushing 1 Bushes 3930407 and 3923158
3990095 Linkage Rod End 1
??????? M6x1.00 x 101mm rod 1 40mm and 66mm long threads
??????? M6x1.00 nuts 2 Jammed together on above rod, on 66mm long thread
3931546 Bracket 1 Looks like a shifter fork
??????? Linkage Rod End 1 10mm shorter than 3990095
??????? Spring, 11mm OD, 30mm coil, 80mm long 1 Plastic clip on each end, marked 'B' and 'I'
??????? Spring, 12mm OD, 25mm coil, 90mm long 1 Plastic Clip on one end, marked 'E'
??????? Spring, 15mm OD, 25mm coil, 80mm long 1 Plastic clip on each eng, marked 'G' and 'J'
??????? M8x1.25 x 20mm Bolt, 8.8 1
??????? M8 flat washer 1
??????? M8x1.25 x 12mm Cap Screw 3 Flanged, 10mm head
??????? M6x1.00 x 15mm Cap Screw 2 Flanged, 8mm head
??????? M6x1.00 x 10mm Linkage Ball 1 25mm overall length, 10mm ball end, 11mm hex base
??????? M6x1.00 Nuts 3
??????? M6x1.00 Nut 1 Plated
??????? M5x0.80 x 10mm Cap Screw 3 Flanged, 7mm head
??????? #6-32 x 3/8" Machine screw 1 Flanged, 1/4" head, slotted
??????? Lock Clip 1




Not Listed by Scheids
3969988 Grid heater Gasket 2
??????? M8x1.25 x 200mm Socket Head Cap Screw 2 30mm long thread
??????? M8x1.25 x 180mm Socket Head Cap Screw 2 30mm long thread
??????? Grid Heater Spacer 1 Aluminum, 1" thick



Scheid P/N

2-915-032-031 M20x1.50 Nut 1 Pump Shaft Nut
2-916-699-091 M20 Lock Washer 1 Pump Shaft Washer
417ISB Cam Sensor Ad. Adapter, Cam Sensor 1
417ISB PP Line Kit P-Pump/ISB Injector Lines 1

Bosch P/N

2 413 455 013-000 M14x1.50 OD, M10x1.00 ID Nut 1 Reducer Nut

Aeroquip
657AERO1503-4 3/16 Aero Hose, 2 ft M51 1
657AERO4411-4-4S -4AN Swivel Connection M51 2 Crimped on Hose

Misc. P/N

139969 Pipe Nipple 1 Thread OD roughly 11mm or 7/16"
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Old Nov 3, 2007 | 11:44 AM
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From: Randolph Oh
Originally Posted by JIT
My current lift pump wont be able to supply the P-Pump?
Not even close, the stocker doesn't supply enough for the VP
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 09:41 PM
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From: Stephenville / Harlingen Texas
So what is the average overall cost of converting a 24v to a p-pump?
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 11:13 AM
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Well, I can say that your going to love the conversion! And yes it can still be a Daily Driver. Iver all cost can easly hit 10k but a lot can be cut off of that. My pump alone was 2500, but a lot of the labor was done outside of the shop. I know haisleys does do a good run down of parts you will need and that helps a LOT! But you will want new injectors and bigger fuel lines is always nice. As for fuel delevery I am running the fass 150 and have had no problems with it and I highly recomend it or something like it.

Oh and be ready for a TON of Smoke!!!!!
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 03:33 PM
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From: Tampa, Fl.
Originally Posted by 24valvepuller
Not even close, the stocker doesn't supply enough for the VP
Im not running just stock LP... its helped by a Holley Blue! I went ahead and just purchased a 1995 12v but its got a TON of mileage 325000 to be exact...
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 05:37 PM
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From: Airdrie, Alberta
Originally Posted by Bosshawg600
Well, I can say that your going to love the conversion! And yes it can still be a Daily Driver. Iver all cost can easly hit 10k but a lot can be cut off of that. My pump alone was 2500, but a lot of the labor was done outside of the shop. I know haisleys does do a good run down of parts you will need and that helps a LOT! But you will want new injectors and bigger fuel lines is always nice. As for fuel delevery I am running the fass 150 and have had no problems with it and I highly recomend it or something like it.

Oh and be ready for a TON of Smoke!!!!!
Whats been done to the pump? What size lines are you running? I've got a stock 215 pump and stock size lines (.073?) lines. Still runs like a charm. Even in -32! Brrr.
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 09:07 PM
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the pump has Lazer cuts, 3700 GSK, .120 SS lines, Not sure about the timing. It fires great but smokes like a house on fire when its less than 10* out. Auctually had the police show up when I was visiting a friend. They didnt trust me that it was just my truck puting out all that white smoke!
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 02:22 PM
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Do most people that do a swap buy a built pump from a shop or buy a core from someone and have it built to whatever specs?

Any specific p-pumps to look for or avoid. Just looking for info at this point...
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 02:45 PM
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if you can get ahold of a 215 pump and have it tested at a shop (just to make sure everythigs doing ok) you can run a stock pump. But were here because we dont like stock......

Mine came from a shop that did the entire build. Most shops just run different stages from Stage 1 to "block out the sun".
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 09:19 PM
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From: Randolph Oh
Originally Posted by JIT
Im not running just stock LP... its helped by a Holley Blue! I went ahead and just purchased a 1995 12v but its got a TON of mileage 325000 to be exact...
unless you are getting 40-50 psi min. it ain't enough
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