Jim Lane

This is how I made my Emergency Air Shutoff

I looked in my scrap and found a block of aluminum 1" thick X 6" square.
I also took a scrap of 1/4" thick rubber from my cut-down mud-flaps.
You will also need some contact cement.



After applying contact cement to both sides and allowing it to dry I then bonded the rubber to the block of aluminum so they were squared.



To use this device when I am working on my engine alone, I removed the crossover pipe from the top of the Grid Heaters.

If you had a helper (that will not drop the block and run away) it can be used to block off the inlet of the turbo.

Now this is how you would starve the engine of air .



To test this I ran the engine up against the governor and when I dropped the block on the air inlet combustion ceased immediately and the engine came to an almost immediate stop within a matter of about 10-15 seconds and created so much vacuum in the manifold it was difficult to remove the block without letting it set for awhile.

It is always better to HAVE this and NOT need it, that to NEED it and NOT have it.

Build one now and keep it in your toolbox.

Jim

93-12Smoke

You say it stopped almost immediately and then say 10-15 seconds. 10-15 seconds seems like a long time to wait.

Jim Lane

Combustion stopped immediately as soon as the air was depleted, it took some time for the inertia of the engine to spin down probably about 10 seconds, a 5.9 has quite a bit of rotating mass to stop quickly, that could tend to break things.

Next time I have my crossover off I will get a more exact measurement of time.

A long time to wait is when you are trying to kill a screaming Detroit with a jammed rack with a 6K tach pegged and it is billowing black smoke.

That seems like an eternity.

That is no time to be an Audie Murphy.

Jim

maybe368

Do you think that the aluminum alone would seal good enough to stop it?...Mark

DJ Turbo.

I wonder if a think rubber chunk alone would seal it off?

Crossy's son

The chunk of rubber could get sucked down.

and I've used warped 2x6's over the turbo before, they work.

Jim Lane

Yes the piece of aluminum by itself will work to block off the air, I used the rubber to give it an airtight seal, also because it is me.

If you had a piece of rubber thick enough it would work as long it was rigid enough to not bend easily, maybe 1" thick, you could probably cement 4 to 6 pieces of mud-flap together as one thick piece.

Also I would not want to have my hand near the inlet of a screaming turbo, I have seen what happens when a mechanic tried to stop a turbo with a rag in his hand, makes a bloody mess to clean up.

Maybe the inside sidewall off a big truck tire about 6" square should be large enough to keep from getting sucked onto the housing, as long as it is smooth enough th seal.

You can try this on your turbo anytime to test it, so you don't have to wonder if it is going to work when you need it.

Jim

DJ Turbo.

I think a sticky is in order good info to know if ones truck is ever to run away just me though

j_martin

Shouldn't take an inch of aluminum to hold against the vacuum, which would be about 180 lbs total with a 4 inch hole to cover.

How about a piece if 1/2" plywood, with a rubber gasket if you wish, and a drawer pull (handle) on the back side for one handed safe control.

firstgenW250

good idea. although id be afraid of the turbo ripping that rubber off of there and sucking it in.

j_martin

It would have to be pretty heavy stuff, bonded well to the wood. Wood alone would be plenty to stop the engine, though. A small air leak won't support ignition.

longshotranch

you could run some screws in the corners to keep the rubber attached to the wood

LBourque

Use to set the racks and injectors on the 12V71 & 6V92's. Boy the spool up fast!

j.fonder

njtman, did i get all of the correct emojis in there?

NJTman

Uh, you forgot one.....