Thanks for the reassurance, I really hope so - I was having panicked visions of having to take everything apart again. But I guess that is part of the process....(the taking apart again, not the panicking!!! LOL!).

 

FWIW, the SB I just put on used the stock bolts, which should be M8x1.25. The oil drain might be twisted a little bit, they were a pain to get in on my truck.

That turbo should be fun. Mine is slow to get to around 15 psi, but it pulls pretty good after that. I need more fuel now.

 

Oh the emotional rollercoaster! Maybe I should just try again tomorrow when there is actually daylight. The problem is that I am so close yet so far...

 

So Industrial Injection says the stock bolts should fit. They also said that the drain line bolts should be done before mounting the turbo - that is now pretty obvious at this point. Hs anyone had success putting these bolts on after the turbo is on, or do I really have to start from scratch again?

 

I had to test fit the oil drain line to make a few adjustments before installing it. Seeing as how the turbo is mounted on the CR, Its probably even tougher.

 

You should try a garrett turbo install. you have coolant lines to deal with. Limits access to the drain line and access to the manifold bolts. I've installed a drain line both on/off the truck. Make sure that you have the gasket correctly positioned so you don't have any oil leaks. You might have to adjust the lenght of the tube and use a longer hose. I used heater hose on mine.

 

Just need the right tools and right angle........


in all seriousness though, I've never worked on a 3rd gen dodge so i can't really help you there. but an EPA07 DDEC VI series 60 detroit is a MAJOR SOB if you're doing just the turbo drain. as you have to get around the EGR valve, EGR cooler, VNT actuator.........the key is the right amount of 1/4" drive snap-on tooling

you don't have to torque the carp out of those bolts.......just clean flat surfaces, good gasket, and just tight enough to not leak and not come undone.

 

Thanks again for the advice - unfortunately I don't have very good tools. I did get the 1/4" drive today along with extension, u joint etc but have the issue that the standard socket is a couple of mm too long. Are there shorter ones around? Greggs said no but I find that hard to believe. I know it sounds like I should just take the turbo/exhaust manifold off again but it was a 2-day fight with a friend just to get the manifold on and I really can't press him for more assistance. I bought the manifold used along with the turbo and the seller mentioned he bought the manifold used off an 11-sec truck. Its a bit warped I think. The stock bolts also really don't fit on the oil drain line- maybe again because its a used turbo. I found a bolt that does fit but it's too large to fit through the flange. Sorry, just venting here - I'm so hooped. I guess it serves me right for trying to save a buck

 

Pistazie, sorry to hear of your challenges installing that turbo & manifold.

Some manufacturers do make shorter sockets if you shop around. However a grinder can make any socket shorter.
I have a drawer full of "customized" tools from over the years.

If the manifold really is warped you can get it milled flat. I would also recommend a ceramic coating for it.

Sometimes its better to remove the whole assembly & start over than continue to fight the issues.
Less frustrating in the long run.

I hope this helps, good luck & don't give up!...Joe

 

You could always drag the truck down to Calgary and we can fix it up for you Thats why I keep my beer in the garage, so if I need a break, I can.

Your truck should work good with that turbo. How much more fuel you gonna put into her? The 1/4in drive with an deep socket & 4 to 6in extension would be the ticket. Could be worse you could be working on a gaser with tons of plastic covers, wires and so on...

 

Red-L - West End - They do HP hoses - fittings etc.

 

Here is a link to a thread with before & after pics of an ATS 2 piece exhaust manifold.
The after pics are on page 2 of the thread.

The ceramic coating looks awesome & would reduce underhood temps also.
One could also dismantle the turbo to get the exhaust side coated also.
Plus then the downpipe, plus then the cold pipes...


In Calgary there are a couple of local places that can do ceramic coating. Top Gun Coatings & High Tech Coatings.
I'm sure there must be shops in Edmonton also.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3r...time-mods.html


Just thinking out loud here...Joe

 

Thanks for the moral support and offers of help - i already feel better .

I wish I had a grinder cause the midget socket would already be done! In any case, for the bolt issue, I was wondering if I could use a nut+bolt assembly because of the bolt size/flange diameter issue. I don't have a die grinder to make the flange holes bigger. It appears that there would be enough room to use a longer bolt and nut, but do you think it would be adequate clamping force?

The ceramic coating is a beauty - I might just do that except the thought of being without my truck for a few more weeks makes me completely agitated ! And the I'm gonna get if the hubbie finds out. . I'm already in enough trouble with the truck down! I suppose I could put the stock stuff back on.

Not sure if its worth coating all the other parts cause with the cool tube and Espar on you cant even see down there anyways - BUT it would still be nice to know its there, and the heat retention thing. I'll have to see depending on cost and turnaround time.

For the manifold, the warping is not so much of a twist, but a kind of V, if that makes sense. If the bolts are in at either end then the middle bolt holes are too low. And the whole manifold is a smidgen too short. So I'm not sure if machining would help in this case??? I sure appreciate you guy's help and advice.

And as for the fueling, I was thinking of a modified CP3 - I'm a bit concerned about the smoke though with this turbo and more fuel. The transmission is next though, I am collecting parts slowly as I can afford them. Don't worry, I'm getting that done professionally

 

Pull the manifold/turbo out, double check the fit of the bolts in the bottom of the bearing housing, and that they go through the drain flange. Being stock bolts, it should fit no problem. If the bolts are too big, tape over the drain hole in the flange, and get a drill and drill bit the proper size and drill the holes out. Actually, it would probably be easier to just take the drain out of the truck and do it in a vice.

Reinstall the manifold, just bolt up the rear half. The misalignment issue of your manifold is probably from the ball socket in the middle. Take a deadblow to straighten it out. After that, loosen the 4 bolts holding the two clamp plates on the exhaust housing and bearing centersection. This will allow it to rotate, so your drain will line up with the flange on the housing. When I got my turbo, I had to clock it to make it fit. Once your get the drain hooked up, tighten the two clamp plates. Then loosen the 8 bolts on the back of the compressor housing and rotate that until it lines up with the discharge tube.

 

The silver bullet is one decent turbo. Sure seemed to pull decently. I would like to see what Tate's truck could do with some fuel? Plug the wastegate and watch out. It would be cool to see an older truck best the new stuff, on #2 fuel.