i also have mine off the OEM secondary pickup in the tank.

i hear that clicking all the time on startup . i thought that was maybe the sound of the heater igniting . . .

 

I think the change in fuel tank temp from warm fuel over night to low temp might cause enough vacuum to pull a leak of air into the tube. I get way more air when the tank is near 1/4. I've replaced all the lines to the Espar lift pump and clamped numerous times with little change. The heater doesn't have an igniter, but a glow pin, its silent except for the pump and blower.

 

It is the fuel pump you are hearing. It is a solenoid style pump.

They do seem to act funny when not on their own dip tube.

 

yeah i started it this evening and stuck my head down by the pump/heater. put my hand on the pump and definitely felt/heard the clicking noise coming from the pump.

i can't recall now . . . does that clicking continue during a long runtime, or does the pump only run to get the fuel flowing and then just allow the fuel to pass thru it??

if i have too many issues ths winter, then next year i will remove the bed or drop the tank and put it's own dip tube in.

why does it have issues if not it's own tube? if all clamps and connections are tight . . . isn't a tube just a tube??

 

I had my tank out the other day and noticed the secondary tube only goes ~3/4 down in the tank. My Espar always had a hard time or wouldn't start when my tank was low. I moved it down another couple inches and seems a bit better now.

 

Yours is on its own pickup. The secondary and primary pickups do not join up at any point.

Jay, my flame out is usually an F54 code, which if I remember, is an overheat condition. I used to get that a lot when I first put it on my 12v, and the coolant was gelling in the cold from being overconcentrated.

Shane, I'm 9 days in so far, have another 9 or so to go. I was on the gravy job, but have now transitioned to the not so gravy jobs. Finished it off too quickly, I suppose. Major overhaul on the turbine and gen next year, should be a good run.

 

yes that is what i meant, just the secondary pickup tube off the OEM module . . . didn't think they were connected at any point.

i just looked at the code list the other day - F54 is flame cutout in high mode (says to check intake & exhaust). talked to brett about this while in airdrie the other day - he also recommended checking the intake as sometimes the tube can accumulate dust/dirt and create a narrowing in the tube thus not allowing the full air supply while in high mode.

i was getting the f54 alot last year and i had moved the intake from our original location tate. last year it was stuffed inside the square tube box rail running sideways at the front of the box. i figured it should be nice and clean in there, but maybe the end of the tube was close to an object inside that i could not see causing an intake restriction. the only reason i moved it from the original location between the bed and box is because it was starting to pinch slightly with the bumps in the road/frame flex.

time will tell with my new routing . . .

 

that's odd, i wonder if they are all like that . . . could be the cause of some F15 codes.

 

IIRC F52 is for overheat condition. I got that when my "new" coolant I put in froze and the heater couldn't flow. F54 happens to me when the fuel line gets an air bubble, well more like a long air bubble in it and it will start fine as the fuel in the line gets moving but as soon as it switches to high on start the air comes in and puts out the fire or it starts to sputter. If I'm lucky the air bubble is small and it re-fires without shutting down or it goes down on F54.

The OEM dip tube was supposed to be a safety so whatever you are using to draw on it won't drain the tank to empty. I'm wondering if it has a crack in it or something like that in the tank.

 

i tried running my espar on 1/8th of a tank a few days ago, it fired, but then quite shortly after. truck was parked on an incline also . . . . i have never paid attention to tank level in the past - but it might have been my culprit. i'll keep it above 1/4 now and see how goes, often at home i am parked nose up on an incline . . .

also, yesterday i ran the heater on kerosene for an hour. it seems to run really well on kerosene, and doesn't stink at all as compared to running on diesel. seems to burn MUCH cleaner. once done, i fired it on diesel again and it still ran cleaner than i remember. over the years the unburned diesel must have been accumulating gunking things up and causing excessive exhaust fumes. hopefully the kerosene cleaned it out well enough.

hopefully the combination of running on kerosene and keeping the tank at adequate levels will decreases my error code frequencies! i will report back in a while to let you know . . . and if i don't report back then it is probably working well!!!

 

Doj Dewd - I would bet that your best price on kerosene is going to be at Peavey Mart - just down the road from you.

 

I have kit number 82209444ab from dodge for the espar kit for 2003 to 2007, new in box. I will sell for what i paid $2200.

 

Ouch good luck with that, OTC from an Espar dealer is like $500 less then that.

 

I was at Cummins tonight. Espars are $100 off right now according to their latest flyer. Not a big discount but $100 is $100.

 

1st mistake............ "went to Dodge" ........ everything downhill from there.