Mine just tapers off,
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...0III/mckee.jpg

This from our first day at AFI
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...sMckeeDyno.jpg

 

The pump is cutting fuel because of the 10 plate. I never liked that plate for that reason, thats why all mine are straight up and down on the top end, no defuel. Put a 0 plate in, he will have much more top end until the GSK starts to cut him out.

 

Tate, does the governor spring (gsk) control what rpm that the pump is on the fuel plate? I'm awesuming that is the job of the governor spring. I'm learning slowly.

Looking at Chris and Dave graphs, they look similar. So that makes sense. We could try a 0 plate and see if we can improve some the top end power. I saw a picture of the #10 plate and there is a dog leg towards the far end of the plate.

What happens when you just remove the plate. You should have full amount of fuel throughout the rpm range, is that correct.

 

I found the picture.

 

Here are the various profiles

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s..._profiles1.jpg

 

Plate is your gov arm stop, and will follow the profile if you are using enough throttle to reach it. Gov arm is connected to the throttle, so the more throttle you use, the further forward it goes. AFC is the fuel stop when in low and medium boost situations, depending on how it is setup. Remove the plate, and you theoretically have full throttle once the AFC is moved far enough forward. The AFC needs to be modified for full travel to do this.

 

I dunno.. I have a #10 as well without that taper. The Vex graph looks similar with the taper off toward 2800 Rpm. Is a 215 pump with stock DV's that different than a 160 with laser cuts?

 

Dog, I don't your truck defuels as hard as Chris/Dave trucks. The power/torque curve higher rpm swing is from taking you foot out off the throttle. Too bad you dyno curve didn't go up to 3000 rpm. I still think that some old fashion tweaking is required to determine exactly how to improve the higher rpm power. I do think that we are on the right track. Dumb question how many governor springs is there on the governor. I found these pictures.

 

My stock spring setup had 3 per side if i recall corectly.

 

The governor arm has a fixed travel span, determined by the rack and rack stop plug at the end of the pump. The springs will slow down the governor travel to keep you in span for higher RPM. Thats where some of the washer mods or just upping the clicks on the springs doesn't translate directly into a steady RPM increase.


Adjusting the governor arm position as well as the GSK might help. I think having the AFC centered is the problem. Back out the zero boost stop fully, and slide the AFC ahead. Then up the spring pressure on the AFC star wheel a couple clicks to compensate. The top of the AFC arm is tapered back to also defuel at low boost and high RPM and might be pulling you off the fuel plate before you get to the top end.

 

Here is a thread on only using 4 springs. Only 2 per side. Suspose to helps with low end fueling.

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...ead.php?t=9688

Ok, before I do something not so smart, would you guys use a 5gsk or 4 gsk? I want to have fuel to burn until 5000 rpm's? Run a 0 plate and lazercut deliver valves. I'm worried about throttle response and drivablity.

 

I am running Smokem's style 3k in the 12v. Runs well, but lays over hard at about 2900 or so.

Stock GSK has 8 springs total, 2 idle springs and 6 load springs (or whatever they would like to call them).

If you are running on the street, I would go with the 4k. Stay away from the LC's if you're running bigger pumps, go with 181 or 191 for now. If you are gonna make this more of a track beast, I'd look more towards 5k's and LC's. LC's are great for nitrous because there is so much fuel injected later, so the nitrous has something to burn.

 

Thanks Tate. I'm slowly finding out what I need to know to get my pump set-up for my other 24V engine. I'm gonna rev the engine up to 5k and see what happens. Gonna use alot of stock parts, just with a few upgrades and see what will happen. Its just beer and time well wasted.

 

I have somthing out of adjustment...Getting to much smoke from the lights.Not getting my boost up before the fuel dump...

 

How much smoke do you have on intial spool-up? Unless its real heavy, I wouldn't worry about it. My truck I just push a button, I go from a smoker to non-smoker.

Have you done any adjustments to your truck recently? A faster spoolin turbo helps with the intial smoke but adjusting the intial fuel setting (AFC I think) would help out.

Last night I was pulling wrenchs on my truck. I found half the bolts in the front end where loose slightly. The truck drives totally different when everything is tight again.

Might work on my primary turbo support/brace tonight so I can get my twins done. Its been along time building this set-up but its gonna be done shortly. Then its off to get some fancy shinny coatings on the housing/exhaust manifold.