Why are you wanting to flip the tone ring to the front? Just put the cam position sensor in the same place as the 24v and run it that way. No point in reinventing the wheel. You wouldn't be able to use the cam lock pin in either case.

 

You have to figure out a new hole/spot to run the tach pick-up wiring as you now use that for adjusting the timing on the P pump. It would be easier to use it in the factory location. Tate, whats your thoughts? I'm new at the P7100 pump.

 

Mike, I'm not in a panic for the engine. Still driving the truck, just added some stop leak and it is living up to it's name.
I am still in school this weekend so it would be the following weekend before I could even do anything.
Like I said, I'm not interested in doing a 12 valve swap. Just want a good 24 valve complete or a good short block to drop my head on.

 

Fire, I know that you don't but I want 12V in my truck to at some point. After that I'll try a common rail or a 6.7Lsince I can't afford a new truck.

 

Just use the cam position sensor bracket to bolt it to the 12v case and use the 24v cam gear. No need to over complicate things. That pin isn't needed for timing, never used it on my 12v and don't have one on my 24v.

 

Thanks buddy. I been wanting to rip into that 12v for reason.Everything else looks like a simple drop in. I think that my 24V in my truck is tired.

 

Hi Mike,
Not in a panic at this point. Leak is stopped at this time, runs fine, still driving it. Still looking at all my options. Wouldn't have time to do the swap till next month even if I had an engine sitting here.

Fire, how soon do you need the motor? I'm kinda using it to do another twin build up, so I'm kinda second guessing if I really want to sell the motor at this time.

 

someone wanted the exact size sorry i forgot when asked

Some 53 blocks were made thicker. Basically the thin ones are due to core shift. You can measure the wall thickness by removing the core plugs (freeze plugs) and measuring the thickness below the plug hole with a 1” micrometer. A wall thickness over .250” should be just fine. Below should have reinforcements installed. There are lots of photos on our website under repair examples.

Gary



Gary J. Reed

CEO

LOCK-N-STITCH Inc.

 

Since we are on this cracked 53 block deal. I am looking for a cracked 53 block, empty, just the no good block.

 

my budy frank bust swapped his cracked one out couple months ago. i can see what he did with the old block. it might be sitting still.

 

Thanks Luke,

I still have that down pipe for you, and still need to come by for that gasket one of these days.

 

I think I saw a 24v out of a grande prairie bargin hunter if you are interested I can snuffle around and see if I can get you the info on it.

 

Just looking for a mock up block? May as well get a cracked head at the same time.

 

Brett buddy, I have one good 12v and two 24v cracked heads available. What type of block you looking for buddy? I have a 12v and 3rd gen block available. They aren't cracked blocks, but need to be rebuilt. If you want to borrow them for an extended period that's ok with me, just don't leave them outside. I have to get that oil pan to you as well so we can cut it up. Same goes for the oil pick-up tube. I can haul it out to your place or you can use my mock-up engine inside my heated garage.

 

Yeah I just want a cracked empty block for a mock up. I already knew that Mike has at least one garbage head. I would like the block completely empty as it makes it A LOT, more manageable around the garage.

I am in no hurry to find one, as my garage doesn't have heat, so I don't really need it till spring. Although if it was completely empty a couple of guys could probably man handle it into the basement...