Abdtr #5
Actually, the push tubes and fluid damper could be eliminated as well. Extra insurance, sure, but if you're on a budget, they won't take you far. You want the push tubes to be the weak link anyway. Better a bent push tube than a bent valve. Fluid damper is nice, but I doubt you would see a difference on a <3500 RPM auto truck.
I don't think I've ever been a budget when it comes to spending money lol. I'm just interested in how much power I can make on a single turbo, then if I get bored I'll throw a 62/s475 or 480 combo on it.
Bigger sticks (SDX 6X.016's) and two stage nos system, is probably all you need. The other stuff is for drivablity.
Could throw on a 6.7L air horn, 6.7L grid heater delete, custom injector lines, 215 P pump for an the added fun factor, but you're probably going for the VP ET record and power #'s.
Gregg, what turbo you running right now?
You guys ever see one of those DIY spool aid tube intake systems? They knock out the front and back casting plug and run 1.5 air tubes to the #1 and #6 cylinders.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/6-...laid-pics.html
Could throw on a 6.7L air horn, 6.7L grid heater delete, custom injector lines, 215 P pump for an the added fun factor, but you're probably going for the VP ET record and power #'s.
Gregg, what turbo you running right now?
You guys ever see one of those DIY spool aid tube intake systems? They knock out the front and back casting plug and run 1.5 air tubes to the #1 and #6 cylinders.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/6-...laid-pics.html
LOL, yes yes I am. Think I will even try to make it to Mikes tonight if he is free.
Greg, are you wanting to see how much power you can make on just #2 or with some spray?
For the money you would outlay on all of those other parts, you would be better off sending a head in to be fully ported and the intake cut off and a custom intake built.
Greg, are you wanting to see how much power you can make on just #2 or with some spray?
For the money you would outlay on all of those other parts, you would be better off sending a head in to be fully ported and the intake cut off and a custom intake built.
The spool aid is great for the common rails, unfortunately the vp blocks the hole for #1 cylinder which is why they haven't been made for a second gen, I've already looked into it lol. Currently running a 64/74, debating NOS but I don't wanna over spin the turbo, if I did spray I think it'd prolly only be a small shot. The Head will be p&p'd and o-ringed, thats next on the list lol. Only looking for 600-650 outta the 64, if I decide to twin it I'll be shooting for over 700 on spray.
Sounds like Greg has been having fun & supporting the diesel aftermarket economy!
I've been working all holidays so I've had time to follow all the spool-aid development/hype...
No one has really done some solid before after testing so who knows. The theory sounds & looks good...
Like I said on ABDiesels, once you've bought an aftermarket air horn, intake plate & spool-aid kit, you've still got the crappy Cummins intake manifold.
This is a CR head with the stock integrated intake manifold. The 2 pipes on each end are driven into 2 removed core plugs.
Air from the intercooler pipe is "Y"'d into these 2 pipes to feed 1 intake valve on cylinder #1 & 1 intake valve on cylinder #6.

This is a huge thread on CF. It took me a while to figure out the very strange way the Cummins head "siameses" the intake valves from separate cylinders.
Very weird why Cummins did it this way.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3r...review-16.html
I've been working all holidays so I've had time to follow all the spool-aid development/hype...
No one has really done some solid before after testing so who knows. The theory sounds & looks good...
Like I said on ABDiesels, once you've bought an aftermarket air horn, intake plate & spool-aid kit, you've still got the crappy Cummins intake manifold.
This is a CR head with the stock integrated intake manifold. The 2 pipes on each end are driven into 2 removed core plugs.
Air from the intercooler pipe is "Y"'d into these 2 pipes to feed 1 intake valve on cylinder #1 & 1 intake valve on cylinder #6.

This is a huge thread on CF. It took me a while to figure out the very strange way the Cummins head "siameses" the intake valves from separate cylinders.
Very weird why Cummins did it this way.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3r...review-16.html
If you want to spend some money, do that 64mm with an external gate over a GTX4508
Or
The 64mm with an external gate and a decent sized spray setup.
Do what is proven, this is not rocket surgery.
Or
The 64mm with an external gate and a decent sized spray setup.
Do what is proven, this is not rocket surgery.
Maybe you should track down a CR head to swap on instead of the VP you have now. However, it would rule out ever doing a p-pump so long as the stock intake is still on.
Joe, unless you rework the air flow on the inlet air horn, it’s going to difficult to get air flowing into the #1 and #6 cylinders. You're going to need air baffles, just so you can get the air supply directed evenly. Is that a spare head???
I would weld those tubes in at least. Never known epoxy lasting very long in a hot, oily environment. Could also throw on a 6.7L air inlet, air horn, more inlet volume. On a 6.7L air horn mod, you also need a 6.7L rail, and injector tubing for this mod to work. Even better if you could also get the 6.7L CP3
The S475 or S480 is another good turbo choice for a primary. A decent sized twins external gate at least 40-50mm size.
I would weld those tubes in at least. Never known epoxy lasting very long in a hot, oily environment. Could also throw on a 6.7L air inlet, air horn, more inlet volume. On a 6.7L air horn mod, you also need a 6.7L rail, and injector tubing for this mod to work. Even better if you could also get the 6.7L CP3

The S475 or S480 is another good turbo choice for a primary. A decent sized twins external gate at least 40-50mm size.


