auxilariary switch bank wiring harness
02-03-2011, 03:51 PM
#16
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The first thing I would try is a continuity test. Put your meter on the continuity test setting. Put one lead on what you believe is the 12V input power to the switch bank. Depress a switch to see if you get continuity on any of the other wires (multi meter will give a "0" reading when continuity is achieved)
If it doesn't work without power, try putting 12V to any obvious larger gauge wire and a ground to the ground wire. With this being a plastic switch bank, I'm almost positive it will have a ground wire on the pigtail. Positive should be red or pinkish red and may or may not have white longitudinal stripes. The ground would most likely be black. You can hook this up to any 12V power source, including running a short 12V and a short ground from the switchbank to the battery terminals under the hood. The closer you get to a known good 12V source, the more you eliminate any variables.
After you put power and ground to the switch, turn you multimeter to read 12V DC. Run the multimeter ground to the same ground as your power source and then check each of the other wires for 12V once a switch is depressed.
Without having one of these switch banks in hand, I'm having to work a bit in the dark on this. If you want, send me some pics of the pin set and I could maybe give you a better idea.
If it doesn't work without power, try putting 12V to any obvious larger gauge wire and a ground to the ground wire. With this being a plastic switch bank, I'm almost positive it will have a ground wire on the pigtail. Positive should be red or pinkish red and may or may not have white longitudinal stripes. The ground would most likely be black. You can hook this up to any 12V power source, including running a short 12V and a short ground from the switchbank to the battery terminals under the hood. The closer you get to a known good 12V source, the more you eliminate any variables.
After you put power and ground to the switch, turn you multimeter to read 12V DC. Run the multimeter ground to the same ground as your power source and then check each of the other wires for 12V once a switch is depressed.
Without having one of these switch banks in hand, I'm having to work a bit in the dark on this. If you want, send me some pics of the pin set and I could maybe give you a better idea.
02-03-2011, 05:43 PM
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Easy enough to do the test, there are three ( very tiny ) pins on one side, four on the other. Logic to me says that the 4 pins are for the four switches, one on the 3 side is hot, one is ground, and the other the bus wire. If its as simple as any other switch with 12v in and 12v out, then I am golden. But I was hesitant to do this all on my own, because the switch bank is about 90 bucks when shipped, and if it designed to run on 4-5 volts, I was afraid I would fry it, making it useless and I would need to buy another. So, is it safe to do this, or do I risk cooking it?
My other thought for the process, is that the more deluxe models ,i.e laramie, come with a slightly different bank which houses the heated/vented seats and heated steering wheel. I have fuses in place for these even though I do not have the options. Thus, the options could be added. The computer could be updated and told that these items are now added to the truck, but the computer would not really care if they were powering other options . . right?
Ideally for me, the switch would do 12 in and 12 out. I was going to jump in from the cig lighter in the console for juice, and the items I wish to add are small and would plug into said lighter andd draw very little amperage as it was. I would just interupt the process with a stock looking switch as opposed to after-market...
If you think its safe to try the switch, let me know and I will do it and re-post the result...
My other thought for the process, is that the more deluxe models ,i.e laramie, come with a slightly different bank which houses the heated/vented seats and heated steering wheel. I have fuses in place for these even though I do not have the options. Thus, the options could be added. The computer could be updated and told that these items are now added to the truck, but the computer would not really care if they were powering other options . . right?
Ideally for me, the switch would do 12 in and 12 out. I was going to jump in from the cig lighter in the console for juice, and the items I wish to add are small and would plug into said lighter andd draw very little amperage as it was. I would just interupt the process with a stock looking switch as opposed to after-market...
If you think its safe to try the switch, let me know and I will do it and re-post the result...
02-03-2011, 06:37 PM
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I've been looking thru the attached PDF from the Dodge Upfitter page. It looks like the switch interfaces directly and only with the Aux PDC (Power Dist. Center). From the wiring diagram, it appears that the switch pack provides a ground for the relays in the PDC. That will mean you need to put 12V power and ground to the switch bank and then run a continuity test on the switch bank from each switch lead to Ground. In other words, the switch bank should provide a ground on a specific wire for each switch that has been depressed. It appears that the LAN/bus has no purpose in this bank. (famous last words)
On the PDF wiring diagram, the output from your switch bank would be wires P820, P821, P822 and P823. Those are wires providing a ground to the relay.
If this works, you could either build your own relay bank or buy the PDC module.
If you need more information on relays, this is a good reference site:
http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm
On the PDF wiring diagram, the output from your switch bank would be wires P820, P821, P822 and P823. Those are wires providing a ground to the relay.
If this works, you could either build your own relay bank or buy the PDC module.
If you need more information on relays, this is a good reference site:
http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm
03-06-2011, 08:24 PM
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Finally found the time this week to take on my Aux Switch Project. It's installed and working great with my array of 4 Bosch relays. I've attached a pin diagram of the back of the switch. Use at your own risk!
03-08-2011, 10:25 PM
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If you have the slot for it in the dash, my guess would be 'yes'. The switch bank is set up to run from an auiliary power distribution center (PDC) under the hood. Power and ground to the switch bank, the switch bank completes the circuit to the relays via the ground wire, relays to your accessories. So, if you have the spot for it, the rest can be made to happen....
03-09-2011, 01:23 AM
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another great way to look at it as a thermostat system for hvac,,, using a Low voltage t-stat (in this case the switches) to control high voltage ie furnace ac etc (in this case the relays) and yes DJM i would be interested in the panel... also if anyone knows what the aux pdc part number is i would greatly appreciate it!
03-09-2011, 09:14 AM
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Fireguy -- I asked my dealer about the PDC.... its 360 bucks. a fuse block and relays will only cost you about 50 bucks if you build your own.. based on the price, I did not bother to get the part number.
03-09-2011, 05:13 PM
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I think it's not even available on the 2500 and 3500 with pickup box. I thought this was a 3500 cab and chassis/4500/5500 only option.
Bosch (now Tyco) Relays are $4 apiece, the nice plug with wiring runs for each realy is $3 apiece, I bought 10 pin connectors for the switch at $.10 apiece, a $10 maxi fuse for the battery run and had maybe $10 of additional wiring. Right at $50 before tax for all of the wiring.
I put the four relays behind the center dash coverplate below the radio. There's a large gap there. The wiring all runs out of sight so it is completely stealth and appears 100% factory.
The only surprise was that there are two hidden torx screws on the top of the dash center below the rubber bottom under the "Dodge" logo and there is a third torx screw hidden behind the 110v power invertor plug that requires you to remove the black plastic bezel around the plug. Other than that, the entire center piece snaps off and on easily.
Bosch (now Tyco) Relays are $4 apiece, the nice plug with wiring runs for each realy is $3 apiece, I bought 10 pin connectors for the switch at $.10 apiece, a $10 maxi fuse for the battery run and had maybe $10 of additional wiring. Right at $50 before tax for all of the wiring.
I put the four relays behind the center dash coverplate below the radio. There's a large gap there. The wiring all runs out of sight so it is completely stealth and appears 100% factory.
The only surprise was that there are two hidden torx screws on the top of the dash center below the rubber bottom under the "Dodge" logo and there is a third torx screw hidden behind the 110v power invertor plug that requires you to remove the black plastic bezel around the plug. Other than that, the entire center piece snaps off and on easily.