Want to see lifted 4th gen 2500
03-25-2012, 09:47 AM
#16
The Guru
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Airdrie Canada
Posts: 6,589
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you run a 6in lift, might want to look into getting an t-case indexing plate. Remove the slip yoke if you plan on actually doing some off-roading, or you might lose the rear driveshaft.
http://www.8lugtruckgear.com/Dodge-S...-Kit-p222.html
If you plan on running big wheels, plan on buying lots of tie-rods/ball joints.
http://www.8lugtruckgear.com/Dodge-S...-Kit-p222.html
If you plan on running big wheels, plan on buying lots of tie-rods/ball joints.
03-26-2012, 01:48 AM
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm 6'2 and its not bad to get into on a daily basis... I probably wouldn't pick it to be a delivery truck though. LOL. Yes, they're 20's.
The xfer case clocking ring is nice. Gains you the slip you lose on the back shaft and takes a very slight vibe you may or may not get on the front.
All of that being said, take into account the use of the truck.
1.) No one running leaf sprung rear with any amount of decent flex should be running a slip yoke.
They don't go together. No surprises here.
2.) If you're putting 20's on a truck, you're not using it heavily off road. No surprises here either.
3.) Worn front end parts. Welcome to the world of heavy trucks post transition from king pin to ball joint. If you're bombing off-road, it's gonna happen. 50k on my '10 and it drives as straight as the day it was new. I've got a buggy to beat the hell out of on the rocks and off-road. I can waste a set of the best 7/8-3/4 rod ends in a season if I'm hard on it. The '10 looks pretty, takes me to work, family/friends camping, boat to the lake, race car to the track, etc, etc. If those are your intended uses then it'll serve you well. Mine rides better than stock with the BDS and drives straighter than my 98 on 285s, 305s or 315s ever did. Hope this helps. CHEERS!
The xfer case clocking ring is nice. Gains you the slip you lose on the back shaft and takes a very slight vibe you may or may not get on the front.
All of that being said, take into account the use of the truck.
1.) No one running leaf sprung rear with any amount of decent flex should be running a slip yoke.
They don't go together. No surprises here. 2.) If you're putting 20's on a truck, you're not using it heavily off road. No surprises here either.
3.) Worn front end parts. Welcome to the world of heavy trucks post transition from king pin to ball joint. If you're bombing off-road, it's gonna happen. 50k on my '10 and it drives as straight as the day it was new. I've got a buggy to beat the hell out of on the rocks and off-road. I can waste a set of the best 7/8-3/4 rod ends in a season if I'm hard on it. The '10 looks pretty, takes me to work, family/friends camping, boat to the lake, race car to the track, etc, etc. If those are your intended uses then it'll serve you well. Mine rides better than stock with the BDS and drives straighter than my 98 on 285s, 305s or 315s ever did. Hope this helps. CHEERS!
03-26-2012, 03:35 PM
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How well does your truck ride with the bilsteins and 2" HBS leveling kit?
03-26-2012, 07:26 PM
#19
My truck ride's flawless!! It rode great before so pretty much no change. Much better daily ride across general road bumps. After the alignment was done I noticed much tighter steering than stock. I am 100% happy with this kit in every way.
You have to get 1" rear lift block if you want it 100% level
You have to get 1" rear lift block if you want it 100% level
03-28-2012, 11:17 PM
#20
I pet my truck from time to time....
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Forever Texan
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
AZ, Did you go short arm or long arm on the BDS (looks short arm in the pic but I wasn't sure)? I'm going 6" w/ 37's soon and had my eye on the BDS long arm or Pure Performance long arm, but I'm not sure if it's that much better (or worth it) over the short arm set up (and considering you have to saw the upper control arm mounts).
Mine will be a weekend warrior (TT tower, deer lease, etc) and I do want a much smoother ride with some flex; although I think Carli smooth is out of my range.
I'd like to get more feedback from someone running the PP 6" (short and long) but I don't hear about a lot people running PP. I've heard it is decent.
Here's a shot of the PP 6" long arm:
Mine will be a weekend warrior (TT tower, deer lease, etc) and I do want a much smoother ride with some flex; although I think Carli smooth is out of my range.
I'd like to get more feedback from someone running the PP 6" (short and long) but I don't hear about a lot people running PP. I've heard it is decent.
Here's a shot of the PP 6" long arm:
03-29-2012, 12:21 AM
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm 6'2 and its not bad to get into on a daily basis... I probably wouldn't pick it to be a delivery truck though. LOL. Yes, they're 20's.
The xfer case clocking ring is nice. Gains you the slip you lose on the back shaft and takes a very slight vibe you may or may not get on the front.
All of that being said, take into account the use of the truck.
1.) No one running leaf sprung rear with any amount of decent flex should be running a slip yoke. They don't go together. No surprises here.
2.) If you're putting 20's on a truck, you're not using it heavily off road. No surprises here either.
3.) Worn front end parts. Welcome to the world of heavy trucks post transition from king pin to ball joint. If you're bombing off-road, it's gonna happen. 50k on my '10 and it drives as straight as the day it was new. I've got a buggy to beat the hell out of on the rocks and off-road. I can waste a set of the best 7/8-3/4 rod ends in a season if I'm hard on it. The '10 looks pretty, takes me to work, family/friends camping, boat to the lake, race car to the track, etc, etc. If those are your intended uses then it'll serve you well. Mine rides better than stock with the BDS and drives straighter than my 98 on 285s, 305s or 315s ever did. Hope this helps. CHEERS!
The xfer case clocking ring is nice. Gains you the slip you lose on the back shaft and takes a very slight vibe you may or may not get on the front.
All of that being said, take into account the use of the truck.
1.) No one running leaf sprung rear with any amount of decent flex should be running a slip yoke.
They don't go together. No surprises here. 2.) If you're putting 20's on a truck, you're not using it heavily off road. No surprises here either.
3.) Worn front end parts. Welcome to the world of heavy trucks post transition from king pin to ball joint. If you're bombing off-road, it's gonna happen. 50k on my '10 and it drives as straight as the day it was new. I've got a buggy to beat the hell out of on the rocks and off-road. I can waste a set of the best 7/8-3/4 rod ends in a season if I'm hard on it. The '10 looks pretty, takes me to work, family/friends camping, boat to the lake, race car to the track, etc, etc. If those are your intended uses then it'll serve you well. Mine rides better than stock with the BDS and drives straighter than my 98 on 285s, 305s or 315s ever did. Hope this helps. CHEERS!
Lmao thanks for the info, I normally don't use the truck off road much only when I need to go visit a customer on a location. Iam a salesman for an oilfield company but most of the times I use it on the highway I put in about 1000 miles every week :/ but so far it's been an awsome truck
03-29-2012, 12:29 AM
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
AZ, Did you go short arm or long arm on the BDS (looks short arm in the pic but I wasn't sure)? I'm going 6" w/ 37's soon and had my eye on the BDS long arm or Pure Performance long arm, but I'm not sure if it's that much better (or worth it) over the short arm set up (and considering you have to saw the upper control arm mounts).
Mine will be a weekend warrior (TT tower, deer lease, etc) and I do want a much smoother ride with some flex; although I think Carli smooth is out of my range.
I'd like to get more feedback from someone running the PP 6" (short and long) but I don't hear about a lot people running PP. I've heard it is decent.
Here's a shot of the PP 6" long arm:
Mine will be a weekend warrior (TT tower, deer lease, etc) and I do want a much smoother ride with some flex; although I think Carli smooth is out of my range.
I'd like to get more feedback from someone running the PP 6" (short and long) but I don't hear about a lot people running PP. I've heard it is decent.
Here's a shot of the PP 6" long arm:
03-29-2012, 11:03 AM
#23
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have the short arm. The long arm is better, but it wouldn't gain me anything for what I use the truck for.
Through the years I've built a few tube chassis rock crawlers and race cars, so I've gotten to know the ins and outs of suspension design enough to get myself in trouble. Basically, the longer the link or control arm, the lesser effect the suspension cycling has on geometry (forward/aft axle movement through the radius, anti-dive, etc). These numbers and their effects all change more quickly on a short arm.
So the long and the short of it (pun intended) is that if you're using considerably more travel and using the truck offroad regularly, without a doubt, go long arm. If it's mainly used on the road, with occasional trips off-road, then you won't see much benefit.
Hope this helps.
-Roger
Through the years I've built a few tube chassis rock crawlers and race cars, so I've gotten to know the ins and outs of suspension design enough to get myself in trouble
. Basically, the longer the link or control arm, the lesser effect the suspension cycling has on geometry (forward/aft axle movement through the radius, anti-dive, etc). These numbers and their effects all change more quickly on a short arm.So the long and the short of it (pun intended) is that if you're using considerably more travel and using the truck offroad regularly, without a doubt, go long arm. If it's mainly used on the road, with occasional trips off-road, then you won't see much benefit.
Hope this helps.
-Roger
03-31-2012, 10:58 PM
#24
I pet my truck from time to time....
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Forever Texan
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks AZ, makes sense to me. I'm thinking I'll go short arm for now; if I ever want to go long arm, then it should be a matter of just swapping the control arms out as everything else should all be the same in the system (if I'm right) because I don't see any other differences in the two kits.
