4th Gen High Performance and Accessories 2010 and Up Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for fourth generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

Want to see lifted 4th gen 2500

Old 03-25-2012, 09:47 AM
  #16  
The Guru
 
Mike Holmen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Airdrie Canada
Posts: 6,589
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
If you run a 6in lift, might want to look into getting an t-case indexing plate. Remove the slip yoke if you plan on actually doing some off-roading, or you might lose the rear driveshaft.

http://www.8lugtruckgear.com/Dodge-S...-Kit-p222.html

If you plan on running big wheels, plan on buying lots of tie-rods/ball joints.
Mike Holmen is offline  
Old 03-26-2012, 01:48 AM
  #17  
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I'm 6'2 and its not bad to get into on a daily basis... I probably wouldn't pick it to be a delivery truck though. LOL. Yes, they're 20's.

The xfer case clocking ring is nice. Gains you the slip you lose on the back shaft and takes a very slight vibe you may or may not get on the front.

All of that being said, take into account the use of the truck.

1.) No one running leaf sprung rear with any amount of decent flex should be running a slip yoke. They don't go together. No surprises here.

2.) If you're putting 20's on a truck, you're not using it heavily off road. No surprises here either.

3.) Worn front end parts. Welcome to the world of heavy trucks post transition from king pin to ball joint. If you're bombing off-road, it's gonna happen. 50k on my '10 and it drives as straight as the day it was new. I've got a buggy to beat the hell out of on the rocks and off-road. I can waste a set of the best 7/8-3/4 rod ends in a season if I'm hard on it. The '10 looks pretty, takes me to work, family/friends camping, boat to the lake, race car to the track, etc, etc. If those are your intended uses then it'll serve you well. Mine rides better than stock with the BDS and drives straighter than my 98 on 285s, 305s or 315s ever did. Hope this helps. CHEERS!
azcrawler is offline  
Old 03-26-2012, 03:35 PM
  #18  
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by New2Diesel View Post
2" Hell Bent Steel Leveling kit with Steering Stabalizer, Sway Bar drop brackets, MAXX Links, Bilstein 5100's 2" over stock, and Top Gunz Customs 1" Rear lift blocks.

Nitto Dura Grappler 285/75-17 (33.89")

I think this set-up is great for a daily driven street truck.

How well does your truck ride with the bilsteins and 2" HBS leveling kit?
ljvsnyder is offline  
Old 03-26-2012, 07:26 PM
  #19  
"Gomer Pyle"
 
New2Diesel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: AL
Posts: 713
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
My truck ride's flawless!! It rode great before so pretty much no change. Much better daily ride across general road bumps. After the alignment was done I noticed much tighter steering than stock. I am 100% happy with this kit in every way.

You have to get 1" rear lift block if you want it 100% level
New2Diesel is offline  
Old 03-28-2012, 11:17 PM
  #20  
I pet my truck from time to time....
 
SILVER GUS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Forever Texan
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
AZ, Did you go short arm or long arm on the BDS (looks short arm in the pic but I wasn't sure)? I'm going 6" w/ 37's soon and had my eye on the BDS long arm or Pure Performance long arm, but I'm not sure if it's that much better (or worth it) over the short arm set up (and considering you have to saw the upper control arm mounts).

Mine will be a weekend warrior (TT tower, deer lease, etc) and I do want a much smoother ride with some flex; although I think Carli smooth is out of my range.

I'd like to get more feedback from someone running the PP 6" (short and long) but I don't hear about a lot people running PP. I've heard it is decent.

Here's a shot of the PP 6" long arm:
Attached Thumbnails Want to see lifted 4th gen 2500-pure-performance-6.0-long-arm-kit.jpg  
SILVER GUS is offline  
Old 03-29-2012, 12:21 AM
  #21  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by azcrawler View Post
I'm 6'2 and its not bad to get into on a daily basis... I probably wouldn't pick it to be a delivery truck though. LOL. Yes, they're 20's.

The xfer case clocking ring is nice. Gains you the slip you lose on the back shaft and takes a very slight vibe you may or may not get on the front.

All of that being said, take into account the use of the truck.

1.) No one running leaf sprung rear with any amount of decent flex should be running a slip yoke. They don't go together. No surprises here.

2.) If you're putting 20's on a truck, you're not using it heavily off road. No surprises here either.

3.) Worn front end parts. Welcome to the world of heavy trucks post transition from king pin to ball joint. If you're bombing off-road, it's gonna happen. 50k on my '10 and it drives as straight as the day it was new. I've got a buggy to beat the hell out of on the rocks and off-road. I can waste a set of the best 7/8-3/4 rod ends in a season if I'm hard on it. The '10 looks pretty, takes me to work, family/friends camping, boat to the lake, race car to the track, etc, etc. If those are your intended uses then it'll serve you well. Mine rides better than stock with the BDS and drives straighter than my 98 on 285s, 305s or 315s ever did. Hope this helps. CHEERS!



Lmao thanks for the info, I normally don't use the truck off road much only when I need to go visit a customer on a location. Iam a salesman for an oilfield company but most of the times I use it on the highway I put in about 1000 miles every week :/ but so far it's been an awsome truck
Jblak87 is offline  
Old 03-29-2012, 12:29 AM
  #22  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by SILVER GUS View Post
AZ, Did you go short arm or long arm on the BDS (looks short arm in the pic but I wasn't sure)? I'm going 6" w/ 37's soon and had my eye on the BDS long arm or Pure Performance long arm, but I'm not sure if it's that much better (or worth it) over the short arm set up (and considering you have to saw the upper control arm mounts).

Mine will be a weekend warrior (TT tower, deer lease, etc) and I do want a much smoother ride with some flex; although I think Carli smooth is out of my range.

I'd like to get more feedback from someone running the PP 6" (short and long) but I don't hear about a lot people running PP. I've heard it is decent.

Here's a shot of the PP 6" long arm:
Hmmmmm......I've wonderd the same question
Jblak87 is offline  
Old 03-29-2012, 11:03 AM
  #23  
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I have the short arm. The long arm is better, but it wouldn't gain me anything for what I use the truck for.

Through the years I've built a few tube chassis rock crawlers and race cars, so I've gotten to know the ins and outs of suspension design enough to get myself in trouble . Basically, the longer the link or control arm, the lesser effect the suspension cycling has on geometry (forward/aft axle movement through the radius, anti-dive, etc). These numbers and their effects all change more quickly on a short arm.

So the long and the short of it (pun intended) is that if you're using considerably more travel and using the truck offroad regularly, without a doubt, go long arm. If it's mainly used on the road, with occasional trips off-road, then you won't see much benefit.

Hope this helps.

-Roger
azcrawler is offline  
Old 03-31-2012, 10:58 PM
  #24  
I pet my truck from time to time....
 
SILVER GUS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Forever Texan
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks AZ, makes sense to me. I'm thinking I'll go short arm for now; if I ever want to go long arm, then it should be a matter of just swapping the control arms out as everything else should all be the same in the system (if I'm right) because I don't see any other differences in the two kits.
SILVER GUS is offline  
Old 04-01-2012, 07:04 PM
  #25  
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Northwoods of Idaho
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Name:  2012-04-01_16-30-10_287.jpg
Views: 6828
Size:  225.2 KB
work in progress
jr22 is offline  
Old 04-02-2012, 08:14 PM
  #26  
Registered User
 
koreone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Whitecourt AB
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Pics
koreone is offline  
Old 04-13-2012, 08:42 PM
  #27  
Registered User
 
koreone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Whitecourt AB
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
ill email someone pics

i have pics but no nerve to load on photobucket its a bad a$$ ride
koreone is offline  
Old 04-14-2012, 12:29 AM
  #28  
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
What size wheel and tire or on your truck
Busa05 is offline  
Old 04-14-2012, 06:36 AM
  #29  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
20x10 fuel wheels on 35x12.5r20 toyo
Jblak87 is offline  
Old 04-14-2012, 02:27 PM
  #30  
Registered User
 
koreone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Whitecourt AB
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
i got 17 inch fuel hostage chrome 15.5 wide and 38 inch nito mud grapplers
koreone is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Want to see lifted 4th gen 2500


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.