Want to see lifted 4th gen 2500
Hey guys iam sure there is another thread out there but can't seem to find it.
well iam wanting to lift my 2011 ram 2500 but I would like to see some 2500 rams lifted on 20" rims just to get an Idea of how it will look please post picks lol and any help is greatly apriciated thanks guys |
How much lift are you looking for?
Or a better question would be what size tires do you want to run? Oh, and Welcome to our favorite lil addiction. DTR! |
Iam looking for a 6 inch lift on 35s just to get an idea and thanks for then help
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6 on 35 is a lot of lift. You can clear 35's with a level kit. 4" on 35 to me looks pretty near perfect and you can still tow with. You can clear 37's with 6"
Hell, Hat is, or was at one time, runnin 37's with no lift! |
Hmmm very tempting I might just go with a 4 inch kit, I know a guy in craigslist sell some 37s on 20" rims for cheap but I don't know I feel 37 are too big
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I have a 2011 on 37 x 12.50 20 with a 5 1/2 inch lift. Don't know how to post pic from my phone
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Make a Photobucket account it's free then just upload your pic to photobucket and copy and paste the image code
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Originally Posted by Blake Clark
(Post 3086557)
4" on 35 to me looks pretty near perfect and you can still tow with.
http://i39.tinypic.com/11837tg.jpg |
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Wooow your truck looks awesome jr22 what lift and tire set up do you have
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8in bds with 17x9 fuels 37's toyos
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6" on 37" Nittos
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Originally Posted by azcrawler
(Post 3091280)
6" on 37" Nittos
Daaam that's nice how hard is it for you to get on, I just ordered a 6 inch bds but I will 35 on 20's..... Are yours 20' also |
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2" Hell Bent Steel Leveling kit with Steering Stabalizer, Sway Bar drop brackets, MAXX Links, Bilstein 5100's 2" over stock, and Top Gunz Customs 1" Rear lift blocks.
Nitto Dura Grappler 285/75-17 (33.89") I think this set-up is great for a daily driven street truck. |
If you run a 6in lift, might want to look into getting an t-case indexing plate. Remove the slip yoke if you plan on actually doing some off-roading, or you might lose the rear driveshaft.[laugh]
http://www.8lugtruckgear.com/Dodge-S...-Kit-p222.html If you plan on running big wheels, plan on buying lots of tie-rods/ball joints.[laugh] |
I'm 6'2 and its not bad to get into on a daily basis... I probably wouldn't pick it to be a delivery truck though. LOL. Yes, they're 20's.
The xfer case clocking ring is nice. Gains you the slip you lose on the back shaft and takes a very slight vibe you may or may not get on the front. All of that being said, take into account the use of the truck. 1.) No one running leaf sprung rear with any amount of decent flex should be running a slip yoke. :) They don't go together. No surprises here. 2.) If you're putting 20's on a truck, you're not using it heavily off road. No surprises here either. 3.) Worn front end parts. Welcome to the world of heavy trucks post transition from king pin to ball joint. If you're bombing off-road, it's gonna happen. 50k on my '10 and it drives as straight as the day it was new. I've got a buggy to beat the hell out of on the rocks and off-road. I can waste a set of the best 7/8-3/4 rod ends in a season if I'm hard on it. The '10 looks pretty, takes me to work, family/friends camping, boat to the lake, race car to the track, etc, etc. If those are your intended uses then it'll serve you well. Mine rides better than stock with the BDS and drives straighter than my 98 on 285s, 305s or 315s ever did. Hope this helps. CHEERS! :) |
Originally Posted by New2Diesel
(Post 3091332)
2" Hell Bent Steel Leveling kit with Steering Stabalizer, Sway Bar drop brackets, MAXX Links, Bilstein 5100's 2" over stock, and Top Gunz Customs 1" Rear lift blocks.
Nitto Dura Grappler 285/75-17 (33.89") I think this set-up is great for a daily driven street truck. How well does your truck ride with the bilsteins and 2" HBS leveling kit? |
My truck ride's flawless!! It rode great before so pretty much no change. Much better daily ride across general road bumps. After the alignment was done I noticed much tighter steering than stock. I am 100% happy with this kit in every way.
You have to get 1" rear lift block if you want it 100% level |
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AZ, Did you go short arm or long arm on the BDS (looks short arm in the pic but I wasn't sure)? I'm going 6" w/ 37's soon and had my eye on the BDS long arm or Pure Performance long arm, but I'm not sure if it's that much better (or worth it) over the short arm set up (and considering you have to saw the upper control arm mounts).
Mine will be a weekend warrior (TT tower, deer lease, etc) and I do want a much smoother ride with some flex; although I think Carli smooth is out of my range. I'd like to get more feedback from someone running the PP 6" (short and long) but I don't hear about a lot people running PP. I've heard it is decent. Here's a shot of the PP 6" long arm: |
Originally Posted by azcrawler
(Post 3091615)
I'm 6'2 and its not bad to get into on a daily basis... I probably wouldn't pick it to be a delivery truck though. LOL. Yes, they're 20's.
The xfer case clocking ring is nice. Gains you the slip you lose on the back shaft and takes a very slight vibe you may or may not get on the front. All of that being said, take into account the use of the truck. 1.) No one running leaf sprung rear with any amount of decent flex should be running a slip yoke. :) They don't go together. No surprises here. 2.) If you're putting 20's on a truck, you're not using it heavily off road. No surprises here either. 3.) Worn front end parts. Welcome to the world of heavy trucks post transition from king pin to ball joint. If you're bombing off-road, it's gonna happen. 50k on my '10 and it drives as straight as the day it was new. I've got a buggy to beat the hell out of on the rocks and off-road. I can waste a set of the best 7/8-3/4 rod ends in a season if I'm hard on it. The '10 looks pretty, takes me to work, family/friends camping, boat to the lake, race car to the track, etc, etc. If those are your intended uses then it'll serve you well. Mine rides better than stock with the BDS and drives straighter than my 98 on 285s, 305s or 315s ever did. Hope this helps. CHEERS! :) Lmao thanks for the info, I normally don't use the truck off road much only when I need to go visit a customer on a location. Iam a salesman for an oilfield company but most of the times I use it on the highway I put in about 1000 miles every week :/ but so far it's been an awsome truck [guitar] |
Originally Posted by SILVER GUS
(Post 3092600)
AZ, Did you go short arm or long arm on the BDS (looks short arm in the pic but I wasn't sure)? I'm going 6" w/ 37's soon and had my eye on the BDS long arm or Pure Performance long arm, but I'm not sure if it's that much better (or worth it) over the short arm set up (and considering you have to saw the upper control arm mounts).
Mine will be a weekend warrior (TT tower, deer lease, etc) and I do want a much smoother ride with some flex; although I think Carli smooth is out of my range. I'd like to get more feedback from someone running the PP 6" (short and long) but I don't hear about a lot people running PP. I've heard it is decent. Here's a shot of the PP 6" long arm: |
I have the short arm. The long arm is better, but it wouldn't gain me anything for what I use the truck for.
Through the years I've built a few tube chassis rock crawlers and race cars, so I've gotten to know the ins and outs of suspension design enough to get myself in trouble :). Basically, the longer the link or control arm, the lesser effect the suspension cycling has on geometry (forward/aft axle movement through the radius, anti-dive, etc). These numbers and their effects all change more quickly on a short arm. So the long and the short of it (pun intended) is that if you're using considerably more travel and using the truck offroad regularly, without a doubt, go long arm. If it's mainly used on the road, with occasional trips off-road, then you won't see much benefit. Hope this helps. :) -Roger |
Thanks AZ, makes sense to me. I'm thinking I'll go short arm for now; if I ever want to go long arm, then it should be a matter of just swapping the control arms out as everything else should all be the same in the system (if I'm right) because I don't see any other differences in the two kits.
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Attachment 58124
work in progress |
Pics
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ill email someone pics
i have pics but no nerve to load on photobucket its a bad a$$ ride
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What size wheel and tire or on your truck
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20x10 fuel wheels on 35x12.5r20 toyo
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i got 17 inch fuel hostage chrome 15.5 wide and 38 inch nito mud grapplers
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jr22, that is 1 sick looking 4th gen!!! long box megas are awesome! ive got an 08 mega that will get a long box done on it next year.
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Check out this thread. There are 415 pages of 4th generation trucks, many of which are lifted.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/20...-4th-gens.html |
Originally Posted by kerry.king
(Post 3097817)
jr22, that is 1 sick looking 4th gen!!! long box megas are awesome! ive got an 08 mega that will get a long box done on it next year.
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I just got yelled at for looking at that 415 page thread in the middle of my managerial accounting class...I justified it as Variable Expenses. True story :)
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Nothing like spam and eggs for breakfast huh SPAM BOY
USER WAS BANNED FOR SPAMMING! |
nice first post chief
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Attachment 39138 2011 laramie 6inch bds long arm
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...tt04/truck.jpg |
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...dium/2Side.jpg Finally finished my front end...Warn XD9000i, KC Slimlites (2) 100w driving & (2) 130w long range https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...um/Front24.jpg Fabtech dual shock kit with Bilstein shocks https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/.../SideFront.JPG https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...dium/Back8.jpg |
Originally Posted by Rednecktastic
(Post 3099416)
nice first post chief
When ya see em, report em.... Trucks are looking good fellas! Keep a postin! |
Will do!
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