01Turbo

Well that hurt $$$...but ordered Mini Max and 4" TBE, installing in one week. Will just use suction cup MM mount for now until I decide on a pillar or overhead mount. This is stage one of deletes. In a couple months I will do stage two of deletes...EGR cooler delete and Pyro install with H&S Intake Horn. Stage three will be H&S tranny tune...if I can wait that long LOL! What do you guys think? Am I on the right track here?

Busboy

Scrap the 4in TBE there really is no benefit and more difficult to do, just get the delete pipe with no bungs, also install the pyro at the same time you do the MM that way you can set defuel for EGT points.

01Turbo

Really?...I guess the shop that is doing the work is lying to me then? They said the best thing to do if I wanted the option of returning to stock if I needed to, was to remove the entire exhaust "intact" and that I would also gain a nicer sound with a 4" TBE by Flo-Pro. Also, said that there wasn't much savings to be had to just do delete pipe? As for the pyro...the reason I was going to wait until I do the EGR cooler delete was because the shop would not charge labour at that point for the pyro install since they would be working on the cooler delete and tapping a block off plate. If I do pyro now without the cooler delete, it would be extra labour charge.

Busboy

I understand their logic behind the EGT probe as installing it in the rear blocker plate is way easier than putting it into the exhaust manifold as it can be done on the bench in just a few minutes, BUT... if you wait you will not have the capability to set defuel points for EGT, just saying, so watch your EGT's closely when it starts getting up there. As for the exhaust I didn't realize you were not doing the work yourself, the front pipe will have to come out to replace the TBE, so if you want to go BACK to stock the front pipe will have to come out again. The muffler... you can see straight through the factory one and the sound is nice enough after delete. Some people make their own delete pipe, I paid $99 each for ours, it's just a piece of pipe with a flange on it. Not sure how much you are paying for the exhaust but I'll bet it's way more than the cost of a delete pipe. You asked for opinions so I thought I might save you some money and work.

01Turbo

yes I appreciate opinions. The cost difference between the full exhaust and just a delete pipe was only about $200 installed. So I figured that's not a lot considering the tuner is $1700. And on a side note I think a full TBE will look cleaner...won't hurt anything right? As for the pyro, I may rethink waiting but in regards to defueling points...why do I read threads where people recommend turning OFF all defueling on their tuners? Also, can I not keep track of EGTs with factory sensors or is there not any EGT factory sensor?

Busboy

The MM won't display the egt like it will on a Ford that's why we need the probe, it's the only indication you will have. Going with a full TBE is no problem it just costs money and will be more work to return to stock if you wanted to to sell the truck. As I do all my own work I like to keep things easy. Defuel points.... well it reminds me of old jet airliners where the pilots monitored their egt while talking about their stock portfolios, and the new modern jets where the computer monitors egt and defuels accordingly while the pilots talk about their stock portfolios. Point is people get distracted and you can burn an engine very quickly.

01Turbo

Well maybe I spent a couple hundred that I did not need to, but it's done, parts ordered and had to pay up front so no turning back without some kind of re-stock charge most likely. I will just enjoy the cleaner look of the full TBE I guess lol. Another question then about EGTs and defueling...What would be the benefit to turning OFF all defueling then? Why do some people do that? I understand what you are saying about protecting the engine, so why would anyone turn these safe guards off? As for EGTs, if I'm running mild tuning what's the upper safe limit for EGTs? Thanks for sharing your knowledge...I'm pretty mechanically inclined when it comes to gas vehicles and suspensions, etc, but I've never really worked on diesels, hence the reason I chose to have a shop do the work. I chose a shop in Calgary that seemed to be highly recommended with a certain highly recommended mechanic...he suggested the full TBE, and based on his reputation, I just figured he must know? Anyway, when the time comes for the EGR cooler delete and intake horn, I may be braver and tackle that myself...come to think of it, I can still cancel my install app. and just pick up the MM and exhaust from the shop and do it myself if it's really that easy???

Busboy

The hardest parts of the whole delete thing is tapping the exhaust manifold if you go that route rather than tapping the rear EGR cooler blocker plate, removing the front exhaust down pipe, and the two rear most bolts for the EGR cooler. Personally I hate exhaust work, it's always a struggle since I gave up my Oxy/acetylene bottles. One thing to know is the DPF was around $4000 alone so make sure you keep it in good shape if you even think you may want to go back to stock.. ever, I don't know prices for the other stock exhaust parts.. EGTs I have mine set for 1150 and I run on mild. Not all tuners have the capability to set defuel points but to my mind if you do have that capability why not use it. Another thing to know is after delete my transmission was lost, all over the place, I had ordered the Trans tune but the code ended up in my junk mail so I didn't have it for the first couple days, straightened right out afterwards.

01Turbo

SERIOUSLY?...$4000 for a new DPF? What a joke! Okay, as for defuels, I did some searching and it seems that the reason people turn off all defuels on 4th gen truck tuners is because the MM only defuels, but does not do anything to the timing causing high cylinder pressures which could lift the head. Is this not the case?

Busboy

Once you get the MM and you update the software you will see there are a number of options for using it , I don't use any timing or turbo tuning. I always warm up the engine thoroughly before getting on it, like I mentioned I only use mine for towing, it's not a daily driver, my sons 2011 G56 was used every day in cold remote places towing and not, he never had any problems engine wise.

01Turbo

okay thanks for the info. Also in regards to deleting EGR stuff you always recommend a new intake horn to save money but I priced out a horn from H&S and it was $360 plus the cost of cooler delete. I can get just the block off deletes for both cooler and intake horn for under $250 as a kit from H&S...so is there any real benefit to spending more to replace factory intake horn ?

RAMRODD

Putting on h&S. Intake horn is a pain in the rear!!! Looks nice and gives a guy some ports for some spray.

01Turbo

Well, if I ever get the bug for more power to the point I want some sprays I will get an aftermarket intake horn...for now, I just picked up a Sinister EGR delete/cooler delete for $247 Canadian. Good enough for me and enough guys on these forums are running them so I'm sure it will do the job.

Busboy

I agree, to me it's about saving a buck or two, I buy mostly what's on sale, a $1.00 saved is $1.33 earned.

01Turbo

Ya, after you recommended an intake horn in my other thread to "save money" I looked into it...I still cant figure out how you did that because it would cost me $360ish for a new intake PLUS the money for an EGR cooler delete kit, where as I bought a complete EGR delete and EGR cooler delete kit(Sinister) for under $250. But thanks for your advice...you convinced me to consider doing the work myself and saving a few hundered bucks in labour...still not sure, but I may just pick up my parts from the shop and cancel my install app. But on the other hand, it's nice to have that piece of mind that a professional shop will warranty their work for usually a year. Tough decision for me.