So I got my self a Mini Max with pyro...and ready to start the deletes. I now have a few questions. I was looking at parts in the DTR store. I am working over seas and tried to call the DTR store for help...but that is not going to work.

So was wondering if anyone on here could help.

1. Do you need to hook up the pyro on this Mini Max? and if yes...where do I get my hands on the "pyro thingy"?

2. Mini Maxx Overhead Mount 2007.5-2011 6.7L Dodge will it fit a 2012?
3. 2007-2011 H&S Maxx Flow Intake Manifold for Dodge 6.7 will it fit a 2012?
4. H&S Boost Tube for 6.7L Cummins 2007.5 to 2009 will it fit a 2012?
(2,3,4) If the answer is "NO" where does one get their hands on this stuff for a 2012? (I would like all black parts for the engine)

5. If I run an Intake Maifold which delete do I need? EGR/DPF?

Thanks in advance

 

I looked at a 12 recently and they are almost identical so everything should fit. If you get the intake (which I recommend ) also get the boost tube from the inter cooler to the new intake because the new boot they provide did not fit the current boost tube. By replacing the intake you do not need the ERG (valve)and EGR cooler delete kit, just the EGR cooler delete kit. You do not have to install a "pyro" egt probe but I would highly recommend one and it can be installed in the rear blocker plate for the EGR cooler delete so drill and tap before installing on the engine, make sure that the nuts are tightened all the way down and are NOT thread bound.. If you are tall the overhead console may not quite give enough travel on the mirror, I'm 6ft and there is only just enough travel. The next windshield I get the mirror will be mounted a 1/4 inch lower. For the exhaust I just removed the NOX and DPF and installed a delete pipe without bungs, I kept the factory down pipe.

 

Couple more questions?

Which pyrometer do I go with? what are the beniifits?
H&S OEM Style Pyrometer 07.5-2012 Dodge 6.7L Cummins H&S-709101
H&S Performance Universal Pyrometer Kit H&S-709401

Are all aftermarket Intake Manifolds created equal?

 

I don't know the difference between the two but the OEM one was the only one available when I did mine and it has the option of hooking a second EGT probe to the box and monitoring both. The H&S intake was the one that most resembled the factory shape, I don't think there is that much difference between them all as the air still has to squish down to the size of the opening on the head. The H&S one also had some ports in it for other possible mods down the road. While you are in there you might want to consider doing the Crankcase breather delete as well, you'll be amazed at the amount of oil that is getting sucked into the intake of the turbo.

 

Well I have on order:

Mini Maxx Overhead Mount
GDP Intake Manifold
GDP Boost Tube
EGR Cooler Delete
Crankcase Breather Delete

Hope I am not missing anything...

Just have to find exhaust and an air intake and I think I should be ready to roll.

 

I would just do a stealth delete if your plan on keeping your warranty. Adding lots of those items will increase your dealer visit costs.

I've done a few 2012's just with my home made delete pipe. Its about $30 and there is no need for a new exhaust. The factory exhaust is decent 4in and has a flow thru muffler, just remove the DPF/cat.

If you need more noise exhaust, get a down pipe. I left my factory unit on.

You can use a newer style 3rd gen exhaust and save a few bucks. If you want the most noisy exhaust go with the 5in straight pipe.

 

So I have all the parts to do the delete...I just don't have the courage. Truck has 30,000km on it...not sure if I want to be my own warrenty.

I have:
H&S MIni Max w/ Pyro
Mini Maxx Overhead Mount
GDP Intake Manifold
GDP Boost Tube
EGR Cooler Delete
Crankcase Breather Delete


My question is about head studs. I see alot in the forums about deleting, then blowing the head gasket. So is an investment in ARP head studs a good/right thing? and if so...what type:
The 2012 Dodge 6.7L ARP Custom 625 Headstuds at $1200
or the 2012 Dodge 6.7L ARP "Normal" Headstuds at $450

Are the Custom head studs just over kill? or headstuds in general overkill?

I want to do it right and make it as bullet proof as possible

 

If you plan on turning your truck into something with huge power then 625's. if you don't plan on anything beyond the mini maxx for extra power 425's is all you'll ever need. And they are worth it

 

I think a better question is how do you plan to drive the truck? 625's work,but so do the 425's. You running stock nozzles? What timing you going to use?

I'm still running stock head bolts. I have them retorqued to 135 ft*lbs and I defuel when boost is over 35psi/1300 deg's.

 

I was just going to run the mini max one level above stock (Mild?)
I pull sometimes around 10,000 pound trailer.
Runnin stock nozzles.
Timing? what ever is programmed into the mini max. I put the boots to her sometimes...I definitely don't drive it like grandma's Cadillac.
I'm am not looking to race it, just want a cleaner, more fuel efficient engine with a lil extra power.

 

I run mild with no timing and still have the factory head bolts, defuel at 1250 deg, 36 psi (which I believe is the factory max boost stock) below 180 deg coolant and I also defuel for transmission temp but don't remember what is is off hand. I pull around 14,000lbs most of the time.. When towing I always let it warm up for a long long time.