Anyone who has had a problem on the 2010 with installation, here has been my solution.

First the area to mount, I used the bracket on the drivers side of engine at the master cylinder mount for brake. It has a single hole that is not used, I drilled another about 2.5 inches above that. This bracket is more than strong enough. I cut a piece of Aluminum diamond plate, marked the two holes, using the top hole as one of the mount holes for the oil filter mount. Plenty of room and doesn't interfere with changing the fuel filter. That is an EAP 100 filter.

The intention was to tie into the oil pressure switch because it is right there, but after removing found out that it is metric and a banjo type bolt and tube, M14 X1.50, it didn't work with the NPT nipple and fittings that came with kit. (I have notified company and they are looking into it.)

Second was to use back up plan and install on the top of filter housing, all fittings were too tall or long to get started under the cooling lines. using the NPT to NPT adapter that is in picture we removed the sharp edges off of fitting and it screwed in easy enough. It only took a small amount of pressure against the cooling lines, so no damage there.

The rest is basic. The one thing I will change is on the out side of bypass, I will change that fitting to a 45 and make a more direct route to the cap. Needed the truck to go get fitting...LOL..


Not saying this is best or the right way just another idea that might help someone like me that was looking for ideas...

"RESULTS NOT EXCUSES"

 

Thanks for sharing. I've been thinking about doing this for a while but use the 3...or 4 tapped holes towards the front of motor near grid heater (when it was there). From your pics it looks like it will be a pain to service your fuel filter now. Is there still plenty of room?

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For me there is plenty of room, I did a test run and reached down, For me, it was using an extension and actually reaching down to touch housing everything was good. The fuel filter, I always need to just about lay down on top to reach...lol.....Now an individual with hulk hogan arms might have some problem....lol..

I am sure there is something else in the future I will need to do in that area that it will interfere with(I really hope not), but my take on it is, there are only three bolts holding it and thanks to modern technology - dewalt, it takes about a minute to spin the bolts off. 3 if using a ratchet....lol..

I am still planning on taking the corner off that bracket and making it form a bit closer to mount, clean it up a little and not have any sharp edges. which will give a little more from the top.

Also AMSOIL recommends changing the EAP100(has an extended drain interval with oil analysis) at every other main filter change(7500 miles), so with the fuel filter recommendation of 15000(i don't always wait that long) I will probably have the bypass filter off anyway.

A little added info:

I talked to AMSOIL tech services and they said the only issue with distance from the inlet tie in was to try and stay within the length of hose that was provided in Kit, that was the tested length. So I take that to mean that as long as the complete loop from tie in back to return tie in. They didn't say to use half on inlet side and the other half on the return. Personally I would try using no more than half on either side.

But with the amount of hose a person can get to quite a few other places for mounting. I had even looked at a couple of places underneath. I guess the imagination is the only that limits us....LOL..

Also something else I have done is buy some JIC caps and put in glove box. That way if I should have a hose leak, tear or what ever, I can cap the four ports and continue on till It is fixed. I had enough hose left to make a spare, so I am keeping it in tool box, since the field fittings(two piece) they provide can be taken apart and reused if needed.

We travel a lot and I like to be able to make as many repairs without calling for tow trucks as possible.