2011or2014?
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,901
Likes: 37
From: On the Farm, Manitoba
I am at the point where I think I should get rid of my 2001 and upgrade. I was going to buy a new 2014 but a neighbor down the street has a 2011 truck with low miles and a good price. I do not know a lot about the 2011 and have tried to read as much as possible but I wanted your thoughts. I know the 2011 is not a brand-new truck but it only has 33,000 miles and he is selling it because he is selling his camper. I know if I delete I will get better fuel mileage but overall, is a 2011 a good truck. It's a 1 ton 4x4 4 door dually. Thanks
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,901
Likes: 37
From: On the Farm, Manitoba
The difference is between 2012 and 2013, the 13's didn't come out until May 2013 and have the heavier frame and higher GVWR which speaks for nothing if it won't idle in the cold, admitted the 2011/12's didn't either but you could delete them so they would work in the cold.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
I was looking at the raceme and delete pipe.. Is this a good set up? The thing already has twice as much horsepower and torque as my 01, so I don't want a power increase just reliability. I have fixed a lot of things on my 2001 over the years thanks to this website and I know nothing of the 6.7. Has anybody ever had any problems because they deleted?
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,901
Likes: 37
From: On the Farm, Manitoba
In my 2011 I'm using the H&S mini max with their transmission tune, I run on mild and only deleted to make it run in the winter, it has more than enough power to tow my 13,700lb 5ver in the mountains. The truck has never thrown a code since I deleted over 3 years ago. Sorry no experience with the raceme.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,901
Likes: 37
From: On the Farm, Manitoba
Full Delete and CCV delete on both 2011's one manual one auto trans, it made the trucks into what they were supposed to be and cleaned up the engine bay plus gave a spot to mount the EGT probe in the rear EGR cooler delete plate without having to drill the manifold. If you buy a new intake you don't need the full EGR delete kit only the cooler delete part. I should add that you read the thread that Blake posted it will set you on the right track. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t-t278158.html