I want to remove the pick-up bed from my dually and replace it with a flat bed. I have heard that you can destroy the computer if you weld on the frame. Does anyone have any experience with this? If I disconnect my batteries will this protect the computer?

 

If transient current was to find a return path thru any of the computer circuits it would definetly release the magic smoke. Make sure the ground clamp is securely attached. The current could also follow any electrical path and destroy radio or light ect. This can be avoided by grinding the point of contat of the ground clamp to insure it is electricaly bonded and place the ground clamp as cloase as possible to the area to be welded on. Now we need to decide if the heat from the welding wil affect the properties of the frame rails(most likely not quench and tempered rails so that is not really a issue). And last but not least before some one points it out although it is called the grounding clamp in some welders and it is set up as he positve side of the circuit and in the better 3phase wlders it is selectable. You need to know what your rod selection requires.

 

Try searching for something like 'frame work' on this site or the TSB site, dodgeram.org, I think. There's a TSB that dodge issued when they went to the hydroformed frame. IIRC, no welding, and drilling only in specific areas. They really prefer to clamp or use existing holes.

HTH

Tony

 

I was told that it will void your warranty if you weld anything to the frame of the truck, I had to get a letter from my 5th wheel hitch dealer to give to the Dodge dealer when I got it installed because they had to drill my frame, that also voids warrenty, but Dodge engineering said that if the install was done correctly, it would not void warrenty.

 

My gooseneck hitch is welded in.

 

I just built a hauler bed and started by bolting the main members to the truck frame - using existing holes. I didn't weld on the truck itself but did all the welding of the bed while it was bolted to the truck. Didn't unhook the batteries either. I kept the gnd. close to my work - no problems at all. Craig

 

Just disconnect your negatives off your batteries. I've welded on every truck frame I've ever had and no problems. If you want to be really careful make sure you place the welders' ground close to where you are welding.

 

When I welded my g-neck hitch in I grounded to the frame in front of the engine(i was being lazy). No, I didn't disconnect the batteries, and I didn't grind the paint off before i welded to it. I figured the rod(6011) would melt the paint away sufficiently enough. It has not broken yet and it has had a hard life.

 

I have some things welded to mine. No ill effect so far.

 

boarbuster6011 is not even close to the proper rod to use to weld a hitch, it produces a brittle/weak weld, like 6010. Over time the weld will crack/fatige, watch it closely

 

I used the same rods on my old truck w/ the same frame and it pulled around 30k on a 2 week basis. No cracks and no problems with it.

 

ok to weld or drill per TSB 13-001-03 dated 2-7-03. My hitch brkts were welded 58000 miles ago [3-15-03] and I pull a 11200 lb 5er. I also use the truck to pull my neighbord 32000 GVWR GN stock trailer moving his rodeo stock [bulls/horses]
The flat bed/utility bed/feeder bed dealer in my area says they would rather weld on the new Dodge frames as your only welding one side of a box. Clamp on the frame brkts have worked loose, especially feeder beds that the truck is driven out in some pretty rough pastures/terrain , and caused frame chaffing under the clamps. Also nuts/bolts can and have work loose and elongate their holes. These were his comments. This part of OK is Dodge country with three area dealers that sell factory invoice on new trucks.
JIM

 

use 7018 or 7016

 

Thats a new one . never heard that one before . Its a alll position rod, Its a in and out rod wip back in and out to run the beed. welding 101.

6011,6010 are agressive penitrating rods, good for rusted metal . I call them battle ship rod. They are good in general and certain applications.

6013 is a medium penitrating rod works good for general welding, all position. 7014 fills good and welds easy, slag comes off easy, welds easy. 7018 runs nice beads also, and slag comes of easy , needs a close arc ,flat welds best , hard to weld verticle and upside down.

 

I thought everyone would like to see the TSB for themselves....http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2003/13-001-03.htm

DC does not reccommend welding or drilling on their frames. If you do, use general welding practices when doing so...protect or remove fuel lines, tanks, electrical, etc.

I think I'd go for the bolt in type....Although, I'd probably reconsiter that position for GN or 5'er.

Tony