Swirls in paint. Removal??
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Nashville, TN Y'all!!
COOL! I go by AndyMan pretty much everywhere I'm a member. Same goes for Autopia.org.
Hey, how far is San Antonio from Austin? I'm headed to Austin for a week the second week of June.
Hey, how far is San Antonio from Austin? I'm headed to Austin for a week the second week of June.
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 234
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From: Ocean County, NJ
Unless you know what you're doing, STAY AWAY FROM A ROTARY POLISHER!!!! Besides burning your paint, you will most likely induce more surface defects than you already have and won't be able to get them out without a professionals assistance.
Don't confuse a rotary with a Porter Cable 7424.. they are two completely different animals.
dang! Good to see autopia represented here!
The porter cable 7424 is a GREAT recommendation. Let me also say that you're run of the mill "Random Orbit" polisher is a TOY compared to a PC7424. They are in NO WAY near the same tool.
Now, get your self a couple of cutting pads, a couple polishing pads and a couple of finishing pads, some good clay, somg good compound, some good polish and a good sealant/wax, and you'll be blinging in NO-TIME (well... about 8 hours of work later...).
Zaino does rock, b/c it's easy to use.
My favorite combo on the Dodge trucks (I do a LOT of them) is this:
1. wash (with DAWN to strip off any wax, tar, etc).
2. clay the entire truck (get a "clay bar kit" with lube or just use carwash & water in a spraybottle).
3. wash again with carwash (meguiars gold class is great and it's $10/gallon at target)
4. Compound using the 7424 and a cutting pad at speed 6 (if swirls are bad).
5. remove compound with QUALITY MICROFIBER TOWEL.
6. polish using the 7424 and a polishing pad at speed 6.
7. remove polish with QUALITY MICROFIBER TOWEL.
8. seal or wax the truck with 7424 and a finishing pad level 3 or 4.
9. buff out sealant with a QUALITY MICROFIBER TOWEL.
The Zaino line is REALLY great stuff. Zaino makes a nice all purpose grade of clay, and their detail sprays are fantastic.
Typically, I use Optimum Compound, Zaino Z-PC, or 3M Perfect It II as one of my compounds. It all depends on the type, hardness and condition of the paint I'm working on.
GENERALLY, Optimum compound finishes out well enough with the 7424 that I can go straight to my sealant. it's a fantastic compound. it's cheap, and it goes A LONG way.
www.topoftheline.com is a great place to get great products at good prices.
www.exceldetail.com is a good place to start for towels.
I agree that saying Zaino is the best is a stretch... but for most people like me that don't drop the money on the Zymol estate class stuff or even the cheaper Sovouran, Zaino is about the best out there.
Other top shelf stuff to look at that's comperable to Zaino:
Blackfire
Four Star
ClearKote Vanilla Moose (AWESOME STUFF TOO!)
Menzera (Kickin products, but they DUST too much for my liking)
Jeff's Werkstat
Hi-Temp (Top of the line house brand, but good stuff).
Sonus (autopia house brand)
I'm not knocking Mother's or Meguiars, it's good stuff... but the more "botique" lines like I listed above are MUCH more user friendlier (longer work times, deeper finishes, etc).
But I digress.....
HERE"S WHY YOU'RE GETTING SWIRLS:
YOU are doing it when you wash/wax. Using substandard wash mitt's and or towels. For optimum results, ALWAYS use a quality mitt, and REAL microfiber towels (NOT FROM Wal-Mart or anywhere else over the counter). Even though most towels will say 100% cotton, a lot of times that only means in the nap. What happens is they use polyester or some other synthetic on the bindings or as a base to hold the towel together. That's what scratches your paint. Dirty wash water and a wal-mart "peanut" sponge will also create this "micro-marring" of your paint.
I use a two bucket method to wash. One has my soap in it, the other is just a rinse bucket for my mitt. Also, wash above the beltline all the way around before washing below the beltline. Only use your mitt for the paint and the windows. Use another mitt for wheels/tires, bug crusted bumpers, etc. The cleaner your mitt's and towels, the less chance you have to creating these little scratches.
I know there's a lot of rambling here, but I'll expound on whatever anyone is interested in. The only thing I love more than my CTD and my family is DETAILING and Paint Correction!!!!!
Don't confuse a rotary with a Porter Cable 7424.. they are two completely different animals.
dang! Good to see autopia represented here!
The porter cable 7424 is a GREAT recommendation. Let me also say that you're run of the mill "Random Orbit" polisher is a TOY compared to a PC7424. They are in NO WAY near the same tool.
Now, get your self a couple of cutting pads, a couple polishing pads and a couple of finishing pads, some good clay, somg good compound, some good polish and a good sealant/wax, and you'll be blinging in NO-TIME (well... about 8 hours of work later...).
Zaino does rock, b/c it's easy to use.
My favorite combo on the Dodge trucks (I do a LOT of them) is this:
1. wash (with DAWN to strip off any wax, tar, etc).
2. clay the entire truck (get a "clay bar kit" with lube or just use carwash & water in a spraybottle).
3. wash again with carwash (meguiars gold class is great and it's $10/gallon at target)
4. Compound using the 7424 and a cutting pad at speed 6 (if swirls are bad).
5. remove compound with QUALITY MICROFIBER TOWEL.
6. polish using the 7424 and a polishing pad at speed 6.
7. remove polish with QUALITY MICROFIBER TOWEL.
8. seal or wax the truck with 7424 and a finishing pad level 3 or 4.
9. buff out sealant with a QUALITY MICROFIBER TOWEL.
The Zaino line is REALLY great stuff. Zaino makes a nice all purpose grade of clay, and their detail sprays are fantastic.
Typically, I use Optimum Compound, Zaino Z-PC, or 3M Perfect It II as one of my compounds. It all depends on the type, hardness and condition of the paint I'm working on.
GENERALLY, Optimum compound finishes out well enough with the 7424 that I can go straight to my sealant. it's a fantastic compound. it's cheap, and it goes A LONG way.
www.topoftheline.com is a great place to get great products at good prices.
www.exceldetail.com is a good place to start for towels.
I agree that saying Zaino is the best is a stretch... but for most people like me that don't drop the money on the Zymol estate class stuff or even the cheaper Sovouran, Zaino is about the best out there.
Other top shelf stuff to look at that's comperable to Zaino:
Blackfire
Four Star
ClearKote Vanilla Moose (AWESOME STUFF TOO!)
Menzera (Kickin products, but they DUST too much for my liking)
Jeff's Werkstat
Hi-Temp (Top of the line house brand, but good stuff).
Sonus (autopia house brand)
I'm not knocking Mother's or Meguiars, it's good stuff... but the more "botique" lines like I listed above are MUCH more user friendlier (longer work times, deeper finishes, etc).
But I digress.....
HERE"S WHY YOU'RE GETTING SWIRLS:
YOU are doing it when you wash/wax. Using substandard wash mitt's and or towels. For optimum results, ALWAYS use a quality mitt, and REAL microfiber towels (NOT FROM Wal-Mart or anywhere else over the counter). Even though most towels will say 100% cotton, a lot of times that only means in the nap. What happens is they use polyester or some other synthetic on the bindings or as a base to hold the towel together. That's what scratches your paint. Dirty wash water and a wal-mart "peanut" sponge will also create this "micro-marring" of your paint.
I use a two bucket method to wash. One has my soap in it, the other is just a rinse bucket for my mitt. Also, wash above the beltline all the way around before washing below the beltline. Only use your mitt for the paint and the windows. Use another mitt for wheels/tires, bug crusted bumpers, etc. The cleaner your mitt's and towels, the less chance you have to creating these little scratches.
I know there's a lot of rambling here, but I'll expound on whatever anyone is interested in. The only thing I love more than my CTD and my family is DETAILING and Paint Correction!!!!!
Though I have a ton of stuff lately, I find myself using poorboysworld stuf mostly. Especially when doing someone's car or truck. I usually hang on detailcity.org reading and lurk on autopia every now and then.
A good product is a good product. once you have a product that you like, is reasonably priced, your good to go....to keep searching for the best, is insane. To get to the next level is usually a lot more $$ to drop for the Zymol etc..........
By the way, p21s or s100 is nice stuff too. Easy on and easy off. I used it on a Hinda the other day and finished it off nice as a top coat.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 59
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From: Nashville, TN Y'all!!
I agree, Poor Boys is also good stuff. SSR-3 is a nice compound. My only comlaint is that it's dusts a little too much for my liking.
I used P21s on a black mustang, and it was real real nice. I've not used s100, but have heard that people like it as well.
I used P21s on a black mustang, and it was real real nice. I've not used s100, but have heard that people like it as well.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 809
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From: jarrettsville, md
[QUOTE=AndyMan;1521760]Sweet! the 7424 is the greatest thing since sliced bread!
Did you use the white pad that came with it, or do you have a yellow flexible backing plate and "stick-on" pads?[/QUOTE
I used the white pad it came with
Did you use the white pad that came with it, or do you have a yellow flexible backing plate and "stick-on" pads?[/QUOTE
I used the white pad it came with
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 234
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From: Ocean County, NJ
SSR 3 dusts, actually, all of his ssr's dust when they are fully worked in.
I keep a bottle of spray and wipe with me through the process and wipe each panel before doing anything anyway. So in my case, it's one of those things I don't think about anymore.
s100 is the same as P21s. It's just marketed for bikes. You can get it at any Harley Davidson dealer. I thinks it's $14. It's in the same packaging and just relabeled.
I keep a bottle of spray and wipe with me through the process and wipe each panel before doing anything anyway. So in my case, it's one of those things I don't think about anymore.
s100 is the same as P21s. It's just marketed for bikes. You can get it at any Harley Davidson dealer. I thinks it's $14. It's in the same packaging and just relabeled.
Thread Starter
Chapter President
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 509
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From: San Antonio, Texas
Andy, Austin is 45-60 minutes from San Antonio. Ill be placing my pay pal orded tonight, so I guess Ill recive everthing Mon or Tues. Anyway, Ill post before/after pictures when I get done with it.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 59
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From: Nashville, TN Y'all!!
Cool. One tip to remember is the 7424 (or PC as it's commonly reffered to as) doesn't require you to use any downward pressure. The machine is heavy enough on it's own to get the job done. Just enough pressure to keep it from running wild is all you need.
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 550
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From: LaPorte, TX
good advice above.........just let it glide on the surface of the paint. dont force it into the paint of you will have more problems
Thread Starter
Chapter President
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 509
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From: San Antonio, Texas
Cool guys, keep the info flowing. This is my first time "power buffing" anything. Im excited after seing some of the work that has been accomplished with the PC on BLACK vehicles. Man I cant wait, ..........no more spider webs. 
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 234
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From: Ocean County, NJ
Andy,
That has a nice deep wet look to it. What did you use?
Guys, another thing to concern yourself with is water marks. Hard water marks will go deep in the surface if you don't get on them. Same for bird crap...
That has a nice deep wet look to it. What did you use?
Guys, another thing to concern yourself with is water marks. Hard water marks will go deep in the surface if you don't get on them. Same for bird crap...