QUICK PLEASE! 5100 Top nut torque spec
#5
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To be more precise, improper compression of said rubber bushing can lead to oscillation of shock valve which will cause instability in inertial dampening which can lead to bumps being felt in your ****.
#7
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Cool - thanks! I can back them off a bit (squished a hint beyond) but didn't want them loose. I figured they intended the bushings to be about the same size as the washer, like with my Maxx links.
I think I need a new torque wrench. The pside 3nuts on the basket seem to tighten forever and more bolt stuck out than on the dside. I never got the torque wrench to click. I was afraid we've break the bolts so I set them with the same amount of bolt as the dside.
All in all, not a terrible install. Its deadly hot and sunny more than anything. I did have the remove the dside battery to get the basket on. On the pside I undid the hose from the airbox for a little more room the press on the top of the basket. Now I have to reset my radio Best of all the truck rides better.
I think I need a new torque wrench. The pside 3nuts on the basket seem to tighten forever and more bolt stuck out than on the dside. I never got the torque wrench to click. I was afraid we've break the bolts so I set them with the same amount of bolt as the dside.
All in all, not a terrible install. Its deadly hot and sunny more than anything. I did have the remove the dside battery to get the basket on. On the pside I undid the hose from the airbox for a little more room the press on the top of the basket. Now I have to reset my radio Best of all the truck rides better.
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#8
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You don't have to remove your battery to do the shocks. Just unscrew the three nuts, and then reach in from the top and you can move the towers out of the way. Then the shocks come out the top.
That's how I installed mine when I was doing my lift.
That's how I installed mine when I was doing my lift.
#9
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I had to remove the dside battery to get the basket on the shock. Believe me, I tried every way I could to avoid having to do it. My shocks were extended so we had to muscle them down and the best way to get something to grab was with the basket on. On the dside I needed the clearance to get around the brake reservoir and lines.
#11
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Ahh that was probably why then. I had my truck jacked up so it allowed the shock to extend all the way and still have room to take the pressure off the tower.
Now I just got to figure out how to get my rear glass to stop making noise when my window is open! Ever since I put on my lift it sqeeks when it is open!
Now I just got to figure out how to get my rear glass to stop making noise when my window is open! Ever since I put on my lift it sqeeks when it is open!
#13
thats what i ended up guessing mine at! The only thing I could find on the instructions when I read them was 45 ft lbs. Got the first one smashed 1/8" past the washer and still wasn't getting near that tight so I did the second one to size and backed the first one off to match.
Love the shocks too! WAAYYY better than the overpriced BDS 9500's they replaced. Can't wait to match the rears as i can now tell the one is starting to go.
Love the shocks too! WAAYYY better than the overpriced BDS 9500's they replaced. Can't wait to match the rears as i can now tell the one is starting to go.
#14
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^^ Me too, I need rears now. I'm debating though, 5100s in case I do a small rear lift or the regular blue/yellow Bilsteins for stock.
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If you lift it you want to get longer shafts anyhow. I would go with the shocks that are ment for what you currently have, and then down the road "if" you lift it, get the new shocks.