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QUICK PLEASE! 5100 Top nut torque spec

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Old 06-19-2010, 01:41 PM
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QUICK PLEASE! 5100 Top nut torque spec

Need torque spec for top nut on front 6646-H6 Bilstein 5100s
Old 06-19-2010, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Shorts
Need torque spec for top nut on front 6646-H6 Bilstein 5100s
You tighten until rubber bushing is same size as washer.
Old 06-19-2010, 03:22 PM
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x2. Good and snug and it's a done deal.
Old 06-19-2010, 03:24 PM
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Yup. I just tightened mine down until I felt it was good. They have enough pressure pushing up on them that it will stay.
Old 06-19-2010, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 15 Digger
You tighten until rubber bushing is same size as washer.
Now this is an exact science......




But yeah, its a torque it to tight situation.
Old 06-19-2010, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Blake Clark
Now this is an exact science......




But yeah, its a torque it to tight situation.
To be more precise, improper compression of said rubber bushing can lead to oscillation of shock valve which will cause instability in inertial dampening which can lead to bumps being felt in your ****.
Old 06-19-2010, 04:06 PM
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Thumbs up

Cool - thanks! I can back them off a bit (squished a hint beyond) but didn't want them loose. I figured they intended the bushings to be about the same size as the washer, like with my Maxx links.

I think I need a new torque wrench. The pside 3nuts on the basket seem to tighten forever and more bolt stuck out than on the dside. I never got the torque wrench to click. I was afraid we've break the bolts so I set them with the same amount of bolt as the dside.

All in all, not a terrible install. Its deadly hot and sunny more than anything. I did have the remove the dside battery to get the basket on. On the pside I undid the hose from the airbox for a little more room the press on the top of the basket. Now I have to reset my radio Best of all the truck rides better.
Old 06-19-2010, 04:14 PM
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You don't have to remove your battery to do the shocks. Just unscrew the three nuts, and then reach in from the top and you can move the towers out of the way. Then the shocks come out the top.

That's how I installed mine when I was doing my lift.
Old 06-19-2010, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by bansh-eman
You don't have to remove your battery to do the shocks. Just unscrew the three nuts, and then reach in from the top and you can move the towers out of the way. Then the shocks come out the top.

That's how I installed mine when I was doing my lift.

I had to remove the dside battery to get the basket on the shock. Believe me, I tried every way I could to avoid having to do it. My shocks were extended so we had to muscle them down and the best way to get something to grab was with the basket on. On the dside I needed the clearance to get around the brake reservoir and lines.
Old 06-19-2010, 04:44 PM
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Did you jack the truck up? I had more than enough room.
Old 06-19-2010, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by bansh-eman
Did you jack the truck up? I had more than enough room.
I have a sloped driveway so the truck had to stay on the ground.

Don't worry, we did the best we could with what we had to get the shocks swapped out I know the IDEAL way, but that just wasn't possible.
Old 06-19-2010, 05:58 PM
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Ahh that was probably why then. I had my truck jacked up so it allowed the shock to extend all the way and still have room to take the pressure off the tower.

Now I just got to figure out how to get my rear glass to stop making noise when my window is open! Ever since I put on my lift it sqeeks when it is open!
Old 06-20-2010, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 15 Digger
You tighten until rubber bushing is same size as washer.
thats what i ended up guessing mine at! The only thing I could find on the instructions when I read them was 45 ft lbs. Got the first one smashed 1/8" past the washer and still wasn't getting near that tight so I did the second one to size and backed the first one off to match.
Love the shocks too! WAAYYY better than the overpriced BDS 9500's they replaced. Can't wait to match the rears as i can now tell the one is starting to go.
Old 06-20-2010, 07:48 AM
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^^ Me too, I need rears now. I'm debating though, 5100s in case I do a small rear lift or the regular blue/yellow Bilsteins for stock.
Old 06-20-2010, 08:48 AM
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If you lift it you want to get longer shafts anyhow. I would go with the shocks that are ment for what you currently have, and then down the road "if" you lift it, get the new shocks.


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