How To: Front shock install
 

I just installed my new Bilstein shocks. Before I did it I checked here to see if there were any issues I might run into. I found several threads with questions and answers but not very detailed and some misleading. So here is my "How To" on my installation.
This is on a 2006 2500 4x4. Should apply to 2003 to 2007. (Not sure if 4x2's are different) It took about 1 hour to complete and this includes forgetting the driver side dust boot the first time [dummy]

Here are some of the tools.
Sockets = 21mm, 19mm, and 15mm
Allen wrench = 6mm
Not pictured are a hammer (of course :) ) and a 19mm ratcheting wrench and 15mm standard wrench
Attachment 64510

And shocks
Attachment 64511

First I removed the top nut on the shock with the 19mm socket and small impact gun. Then removed 2 of the 3 shock tower nuts with the 15mm socket and impact gun. The 3rd nut is easily accessed through the wheel well with the 15mm wrench.
Attachment 64512

I then hit the top of the shock with hammer and punch to loosen the metal washer from the shaft (driver side only) and then removed the washer and rubber bushing. I then lifted the tower up and off the shock and set it aside by the fuel filter housing. Then I undid the bottom bolt with the 21mm socket and impact. The nut is held in place so NO NEED to try to get a wrench on it. Back up top I pulled the shock out and up between the battery and brake master cylinder being careful to not touch the positive battery clamp.
Only difference on the passenger side is I removed the stock air filter top to gain better access to one of the tower nuts and I pulled the shock out with the tower and removed the tower from the shock on the bench. (The washer would not come off in the truck :( )

Here is how the washer and bushings go on the new shocks. The sleeve goes into the bottom bushing first and is used to keep from over tightening the top nut.
Attachment 64513

Installation is just the reverse. I made sure to tighten the bottom bolt first to make sure it was in the correct position.
Here is how far the top nut gets tightened and how much the bushing is squeezed. Almost as big as the washer.
Attachment 64514

Hope this helps somebody!!

Great job buddy. If you still have the tq specs, post them up too, if not, I'll get them if someone asks.

I believe the lower bolt is 100 ft/lbs and the top 3 nuts are 50 ft/lbs. The top nut of the shock is just tighten until it stops and they also come with the nylon inserted nuts.

To be honest, I did the German torque...... good-n-tight method :)

Hopefully this gets stickied...

Would be nice.
I can add a few more details if needed.

good write up. I will be doing the same soon.

Excellent instructions and photos. Thanks for sharing.

Any time. Hope it helped!

I need to replace mine as well. With the impact guns, I take it that you did not have to soak the bolts with WD40 (or anything like it) before removing the shocks?

Thank you for the pictures and write-up

No. I did not soak any thing. But I also live in the desert so nothing ever rusts here [laugh]

Hmmm.When I installed mine in 07 I used the new bushings and tightened them.Upon looking at them today I noticed the upper rubber bushing all dry rotted I would say.I can pick it away.Also I see how much You tightened the top nut I tightened too much I think[duhhh],as I have 6-7 threads showing You have 2-3 and my bushing is squeezed way more and is larger than the washer.Good thing I saved old mopar bushings as it looks like I will need to change them very soon.Hope the bottom bushing is ok.I saved all 4 mopars.Also i saved what look to be the sleaves that came with the Bilsteins.Maybe the mopar sleaves are shorter and thats how I over tightened them?Can I just use the mopar bushings(like new) or should I get new 1s from Bilstein?

If you can get new ones I would do it. If not you can probably use the old ones if they appear to be in good condition. I know mine looked real good even with 80k miles on them.

When I changed them out the mopar 1s only had like 18000mi them ,bushings still look new been in the bag that the Bilstein's came in along with the sleeves.Bottom 1 will probably be a pain.I'll check bottoms if they look ok I'll change top 1s and sleeves also. Thank's

Perfect timing in finding your post as I am about to do the same. Did you change out your front springs also, or are you still running stock?

Still running stock springs here.

great post!! this saved me sometime trying to figure out what size sockets and wrench that i was going to need. Only a couple things i did different was i used a universal joint style adapter on the end on my 15mm to take the bracket nuts off worked good for me. Great job again Rock crawler

Glad it helped! I can see where the u-joint would help. It can be tight in there.

Thanks for the post and for all the info. I think I will try and install mine this weekend. I just bought some KYB MonoMax shocks to help out the ride control.

Post up if you run into any issues! Or send me a PM I'll help ya that way to.

Haven't got'er done yet. Too many other things seem to come up. I'll try to get the rears on tonight if I can. The fronts will probably have to wait until next week...:-(

I'm replacing my shocks. The back went on no problem. The front shocks I seem to be having trouble getting the top nut to come loose. The shock seems to be spinning with it. Any ideas?

If the shaft is spinning you will need to use a 3/8 (or 9mm) wrench on the top part and the other wrench to loosen the nut.

Do you have any air tools to use?

rockcrawler, Great write up (I copied it back in Feb). Probably a dumb question, but are you having to jack up the truck at all when you change them?

Thanks!

I jacked up the front a few inches to take a little pressure off but it is really not needed.

I finally did all four today! It went pretty well, I didn't have to remove any batteries or airbox or tubes. I didn't jack it up at all and it was fine. It would have went faster, but I kept stopping for football breaks. ;-) I installed KYB Monomax and I really like the improved ride and control. Thanks RockCrawler!!

Neat stuff. Thanks again.

Any time guys! Just glad it has helped a few so far :)

Thanks for the write up. I finally got all 4 of my shocks replaced. The rear I had done before and are very easy. The front kept giving me issues that were minor but I finally got them done after about 4 hours. Top nut was the hardest part to get off. I used vice grips on the shaft through the wheel well to get it to stop turning. Oh 30 minutes of the time I spent looking for the rubber spacer that I dropped into the engine block and it didn't fall through.

But its done....thanks again.

Excellent advice. Just installed Bilstein 5100's and went almost perfect.
Unless you count a broken socket and having to track down a breaker bar to get the #$^#! lower shock bolts loose :)

Great to hear.

Broken sockets are never fun!

Very helpful. I'm about to tackle this myself. On the lower bolt, I just need to wrench it out through the hole in the lower bracket, right? How is the nut held in place on the back? Welded on? I was looking at it and was wondering how the heck I was going to get a wrench on the nut to hold it in place while I backed the bolt out.

Yes. the nut is welded in place. A socket and extension (or deep socket) through the hole in front and you are good to go.

Good thread.
Fox Racing Shox has specs for stock/leveled and lifted Dodges.
I am running them on my 2007 MegaCab Dually, they work very nice.
Check them out if you get a chance.

Bump

I just bumped a stickied thread [duhhh] I blame allergy meds.

[laugh] Um OK... We'll go with "Allergy" meds!! [coffee] [laugh]

rockcrawler304 - Thanks, Great instructions.

First I want to say great write up. I have been looking for one and this is the only one I have come across that was any good.

I am having a problem getting my bottom bolt off. The nut on the back side is just spinning and I cant seem to get a wrench in there to grab it. Would anyone have any suggestions on how to get this @#$^ bolt off? I am at wits end right about now!

Any way to get a welder nozzle or stick in there to tack that bolt back down?

Good Idea. I didn't think of that. I don't have a welder myself but I might be able to round up a buddy to maybe tack it back on if I had to. It is pretty tight quarters in there, I wasn't even able to get a socket in there to hold it. You would think that they would make an access hole in the back just as the front in case something like this happens! [duhhh]

I have a mig welder. I can look tomorrow to see if this is possible. If it is I will do it and try to get some pictures to add to the thread!