Ok i have fixed the lights 100% what you need is a 30w 5ohm resistor and at the fatory plug on the blue(low beam) wire splice the white or hot side of the resistor there and go to chassis ground not to the brown wire and do the same for the white (high beam) wire and you will have no problems i have been running them now and with the bi xenon use the same set up for the pass side to get rid of lamp out light!

 

Ok, sorry in advance for the long post, but i fixed it.

I have read through every forum, tried all of the "fixes" and have had no luck. I started at it a few hours ago and finaly came to a solution that works with the truck running, the truck off, it finaly just works. I didn't use any resisitors, capacitors, or bulbs. I'm not sure if your kits came with a plug to connect to your factory headlight harness but mine did not. It has three wires with pins that stab into the connector. I took the HID highbeam wire and connected it to the truck highbeam wire, I ran the HID ground to a chassis ground, and I ran the HID lowbeam wire though a normaly open contact on a relay. (standard cheap automotive relay, 15 amp i think?) I powered the coil of the relay from the truck lowbeam wire, and the other side to a chassis ground. As far as i can tell the computer in the truck that does all the thinking for the headlights didn't agree with the HID relay box. It now works fine with the truck running and the charging system right up. It is working perfectly with no resistors, there is no lamp out light or code. This may not be the fix for all of our trucks since they all seem to work different, but this is another option to fix the rapid switching between high and low beams. If you have any questions I am going to draw up a wiring diagram tonight to take to my friends at the local truck shops since they couldn't make them work either. Pm me and i will email you a copy of the drawing if you think it may solve your problem.

 

Just did my driver side projector HID. Didn't work at all just plugged in out of the box. Lamp out light was lit. Ran to Radio Shack. Closest thing I could get was an 8ohm, 20watt resistor. Worked immediately. Just want to take her for a drive tonight when it gets dark to see if it'll stay lit and how I like the new lighting. I didn't bother hooking up the led's or halos. Wish they weren't on the lights anyway. Looks Ok. If the lighting is that much better, I'll be happy, as looks are secondary to performance in this case. 90% of my driving is at night and my eyes aren't what they used to be...

edit, I ran the resistor right from the low beam hot to chassis ground.

 

All is working well. Lights throw out an incredible amount of light compared to stock. Very white... very cool. Now I have a question as to how to adjust the height of the beam. One seems to be slightly higher that the other. There isn't an adjustment screw like the stockers. There is three bolt like studs mounted inside the lights on the back of the projectors... any ideas as to tightening/loosening these would do what??? Instructions are terrible on these things and nothing about aiming.

 

Is this resistor still working for you?

 

Yes they are working fine. I drive about 2 hours almost every night/morning in the dark. No problems... knocking on wood...

 

I was just wondering, because I have those same exact ones (the ceramic looking ones?) all fitted up, ready to put in. I was going to wait until I get a response in another thread about a part number for the alum. heatsink ones, but I'm not sure now.....

Another question: Where you getting an indicator light on the instrument panel, or other problems? I was under the impression I was going to get a "lamp out" indicator, I'm getting both the "Brake" (as in, emergency brake on) and "ABS" light.
I'm about 98% sure it has to do with the HID's, I've never seen it even once before this.

 

No indicator lights at all. Yes they are the ones with the ceramic casing. If you're running the hid's without the resistors you will get the lamp out indicator. Let me know how it works out.

 

Well, it works like this. I'm not getting a lamp out indicator. Last night I had the brake and ABS lights on, don't know why.....

Today, I ran the truck about 20 miles, turned the lights on and off, parked it, stated it again, NO DUMMY LIGHTS.

Now what?

 

I don't think that has anything to do with your Hid's. Any codes thrown?

 

Nah, Smarty says none.

Thing is, it NEVER did this before. That, and I'm not getting any "Lamp out" indicator, can't even see in the panel where there is one.

 

I mean, seriously, I'm not getting this "lamp out" light, anywhere, anytime.

Are you guys running both highs and lows? I wonder if the relays for the ballasts are pulling enough power to NOT cause the "lamp out"?

 

Maybe your setup is different? Are you using true HID's with ballasts? Maybe you're just lucky...
If you dont' need the resistors, don't bother.

 

Honestly, I don't know what I am running. I acquired them from a member here as a consolation gift for him taking longer than agreed to send me some parts.

They have 4 (total) separate ballast boxes, they plug into a harness that goes to the battery and is hooked up with two relays.

The bulbs are 12,000K.

 

put stock bulbs back in and see if all is normal no lights, then pull the bulbs and leave it empty turn the switch on ya should get that lamp out... then try the hid's again... see if your brake light and ?? come back on.