I have had the CM skirted flat bed on my truck for 5 years now, and it has served well, but I've been coming up with ideas I want to implement on the bed, but the modifications to this bed would involve too much cutting.

So this means I'm going to build a completely new bed, the problem is I almost need the bed off for the time being to be able to get measurements and figure out how things need to match up on the underside to make this work.

A few things I want to accomplish with this new bed is to:
- Avoid strapping everything down
- Improve aerodynamics
- Lighten up the truck
- Reduce gooseneck jacking

This means I need to make sides and a tailgate, have a cab protector and deck that matches the cab profile better, and reduce how much heavy material is required. For the gooseneck issue that will involve either getting the deck lower on to the chassis or have a trough.
Some of my other ideas on this bed are to make everything modular, so the bed deck will be separate from the cab guard, tool boxes, light/license plate bar, and bumper.

Does anyone have pictures and or measurements of a 3rd gen Q/Cab long bed without the bed?
And does anyone have any other ideas?

 

I have steel flat bed as well, absolutely love it due to just how handy it is to have a flat bed to load and unload items. I even came up with way to haul 2 snowmobiles on the back, currently in the process of creating a soft canapy to protect them from slush / salt. I have a really handy slip in crane on the back of the truck that was really cheap to build / make - lifts a snowmobile onto the back with out a problem.

I hear you with the following issues:
- weight
- aero
- time for strapping down items.

I have thought about these issues as well and I have the following suggestions:
- weight; considered AL bed, I was told the "rule of thumb" is that an AL bed will weigh about 40% less than a steel therefore about 500 lbs.
- Aero; I eliminated my combination headache rack & ladder rack and made this a drop in item. The front of my bed verticle section in the front now stops right below the rear window.
- Time for straps; check out northerntool, you can get straps that bolt or weld to the bottom of your bed like a flat bed semi so you spend less time with the rachets.

I have also thought about building an AL bed, I need to run the #s on how much material cost and time it will take. I recently looked at the flat beds produced by Hillsboro. Good looking AL beds and they look like a company that would do customer specific changes. When I asked how much, the rough number I received was around $2250 which I was actually surprised. I was expecting a lot more. Now I am trying to weigh the option of buying an AL bed and selling my power coated steel bed.

If you need a "start" on an AL bed, check out the classifieds section, used Hillsboro bed for sale. I think the price for the used bed should be less than what he is asking since the price for new is not that much of a spread, but that is my opinion.

Just my 2 cents.
Just my 2 cents

 

Thanks nvr-enuf I thought about using aluminum but figured that 40% weight savings would be made up in 40% cost increase, that and it cuts down on who I can have do the welding.
I just don't feel right strapping down coolers and feed sacks, as it is I have tied down folding chairs before and it looked kinda funny, which reminds me, whatever you have on the bed is for everyone to see.

 

less weight would mean no tool boxes, what about buildng side boards and tailgat that are removable. add a channel for the gn in the current bed. dont know how you could make a flat bed any more areodynamic then flat. channel is nice cuz mine has that

 

Well the thing is I have too much sticking out around the cab of the truck. The cab guard is built so it will match up with the biggest cab that the bed can go on, which is a Ford. When I drive through rain I can look back and watch the water being pushed to the center of the window by the air hitting the cab guard. Also the front of the bed at the bottom for the skirt is flat and I have probably a 21" X (avg) 3" bearing surface that is only good for catching a beating from gravel.
The other thing for aero dynamics is when was the last time you saw anything aerodynamic that wasn't tapered down to the back?
My plan is to build the deck to the width of a regular bed and mount toolboxes to flare out to form the front and back of the dually fender and just cover the top with a removable plate. That way I can control how much distance there is between the deck and the tires.

 

like a hauler bed maybe

 

Yeah pretty close, other than for sure no dove tail and it will be full length.

 

here's mine

 

try this for frame measurements, http://www.dodge.com/bodybuilder/year.pdf

 

the shape of the bed really improves the mileage, like 1-2 mpg, my truck weighs 11,600 and gets 20-21 mpg daily for the last 115k miles. We run 7 of these trucks with all different types of beds on them, so ive tested this theory. the shape of the dodge dually frame is a little difficult to work with, but not too bad, i drilled the frame and welded in sleeves where the gn hitch is, used the factory bed mounts in the front and the 2 reciever hitch bolt holes in the back and retained the factory reciever. I cant remember any of the measurements since i built it 4 years ago, but i do have most of the CAD files, if you need any help on anything. Also i used 3" formed channels for the crossmembers made from 1/8" plate instead of heavy channel iron, since the crossmembers dont have to support the gooseneck, but my bed still weighs 1200lbs with all toolboxes on it. 3/16" floor and 1/8" sides, used 2"x3"x1/4" rect. tube for the main rails with 3/8" mounts.

 

Dixiemfg very nice. Did you keep the cab guard modular or is it welded to the bed?

 

its welded to the bed, but was a separate built peice, if you were interested in one like it i could probably cut you one out and ship it to you for you to weld up, (its made of about 30 small pieces of 1/8" plate) if i can find the CAD file on the computer. look at my pic gallery, there's some bare metal build pics of the bed, i can also give you the name of a place to order latches, hinges, tailgate latch systems, and weatherstripping, etc. Just keep in mind, it takes ALOT of time to build a custom bed, doesnt seem like it, but to make it look good and smooth it takes alot of welding and grinding and polishing, mine has about 400ft. of welds on it, i suggest TIG welding it..makes it a whole lot easier to polish out..

 

I go through this every year, I think about building one right or just put the stock one back on and now that I'm not using my bed for large items I feel I'm as well off to put the stock one on. Probably end up making more selling the used flatbed than I would selling the stock one with 500 miles and 8 months of sun on it. Thank you for the offer though.

 

Dixiemfg, very nice work. Too bad you are so far away!