I’m getting ready to install the Mopar 08.5 linkage upgrade (52122362AJ) and the new Mopar 68170214AA steering gear box on my truck. I also have a Solid Steel Industries steering stabilizer (DSS) number DSS00409-4 to complete the job.

The new gearbox uses a much larger nut and the DSS kit also includes a large nut/adapter to work with the large box (reason for using DSS kit for 2009 and up trucks). The size of the socket needed for the nut that came with my DSS kit is 1-3/4” – larger than the kits for the smaller steering boxes.

So far the deepest socket I can find is a Grey Pneumatic 4056XD which is a 6 point 1” drive that can accommodate 3.44” depth (their website indicates 3.54”, I called and confirmed with an engineer it is actually 3.44”).

The total length of the DSS nut/adapter is over 4”, maybe 4.2” or so and using the Grey Pneumatic 4056XD will not get full engagement of the nut, but about a half inch. This may be enough, but before I go this direction I wanted to find out if anyone has found a better solution to use with a torque wrench.

SUNEX makes a one half inch drive 1-3/4" crowfoot but my experience with open jaw tools like that tend to slip.

I know I can find a wrench to fit and pull it up good and tight, but not going that route.

Anyone aware of other extra deep sockets? If not I may have to weld something together.

 

On the GP XD socket, I'd bet money you will have more than enough socket to nut engagement surface. I used the GP2040xd (1/2" drive) on the 1-1/4" sector shaft nut on my CD brace. As you can see from the picture the nut is about 4" total length ad the socket is 5". It fits completely in the socket.

I did the same exact research you are doing for the pictured setup. For whatever reason, the measurement they give is not correct.







I used a 3/8" torque wrench w/drive adapter to get to a certain measurable spec. From there I turned the nut another 90* to achieve the appropriate torque (has to do with the math of thread pitch for distance turned equaling the torque #). I found a well hidden post that mentioned this little trick for those that did not have or could not use a torque wrench could still get it where it needed to be. I used a 1/2" drive 27" breaker bar.

Here is the post: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...s-t239763.html

I know 90* doesn't seem like much when you measure 40ft lbs, but when you're yanking on the end of that bar and your eyes are bulging out their sockets, you get a good feeling you're close

 

Alright I typed the above as dinner was finishing up so I didn't have a chance to look at the socket/pn you needed. Looking at it in detail looks like the 1" drive you need is going to be shorter than the 1/2" version I used in the smaller size.

If you really want to use a deep socket, you could always fab up a socket. Chop, extend by using an outer sleeve, weld up the edges and you're set.

Perhaps if I am standing in your shoes I'd buy the GP socket and make a go with only that 1/2" of socket to nut contact. If you can get it to torque you are good to go. If you cannot and the nut is being torn up, then go ahead and chop/extend the socket to finish the job. So, you're only doing the work necessary but you'll still need a socket.

I wouldn't use an open end wrench or crow's foot. The advantage to the socket is more contact surfaces to make the turns.

Let us know what you go with.

 

Don't mean to jump in on your post, but just wanted to make sure that you're a aware that the 08.5 linkage is being recalled.

I had mine installed less than 90 days ago, took it into the dealership for the recall notice and they said it needs to be replaced.

 

I would heck with Mac or Snap on they both make a box end crows foot wrench in 1/2 in and 3/4 in drive