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Busted Wheel Stud

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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 10:55 AM
  #1  
jumper's Avatar
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Busted Wheel Stud

One front wheel stud has sheared off and gone missing. There's no evidence of rust in the failure point so I imagine it was not a latent crack in the stud.

I'll replace the one, but should I replace them all, either on the wheel or on the whole truck? I can retorque them all and see if any feel "soft" so to speak. I'll be towing this summer and really don't want a catastrophic failure. I've only had the truck for 4K miles of its 82K total so I've got no idea how well torqued the wheels have been over time.

It looks from the service manual like I can replace the front stud(s) without removing the hub, but we'll see. Hopefully I can get a big C-clamp behind it with a deep socket to use as a press. Or, should I just run a nut down the stud and draw it into the hub? Is there a "best" way to do this?
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 11:40 AM
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From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
I would replace them all. They're not that expensive. There is a tool for installing Mac tools carries it. But you can use a large nut and thick flat washer will get the job done. Put a little anti seize on threads will help, but don't forget to clean it off with brake clean before installing your wheel and torque new nuts down.
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 12:34 PM
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From: On the Farm, Manitoba
Is the torque 135 ftlbf the same as the second gen trucks? I see on a thread further down that the 2008 is 140-145 ftlbf.
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 03:01 PM
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Found the procedure in the Factory Service Manual. Looks like they want the caliper and rotor off to allow access to a hole in the backing plate through which the new stud will get to the hole in the hub. Oh well.

They suggest three washers and a nut to pull the new one in, but a special tool to press the old one out. Hope that's not to avoid bending the hub flange when using a BFH to pound out the old stud...

Wheel torque is spec'd at 145 ft-lb.
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