Hello everyone. I've got lots of questions about a new to me truck so I apologize ahead of time for the long post.
I bought a 2007.5 3500 with 129k. The PO said an employee of his was driving this truck when he developed a knock and he pulled over. They called a tow and towed it to a shop who said they test drove it and the engine locked up. They told him it needed a new engine and he decided to sell it. (I bought it really cheap)
When I looked at the truck the oil level was over full. When I checked the radiator it was empty. I cracked the pan drain and yep, antifreeze drained out. I havn't torn it down yet but I am thinking (and hoping) this is just a head gasket and not needing a complete rebuild.
My questions for now refer to if this is just a head gasket and are,

1. I have a friend who has done quite a few of these. He says that the reason these engines were blowing the gaskets was the old torque specs for the bolts was somewhere around 90 ft/lbs. The new spec is sequentially 90, 110, 130, 150 ft/lbs then an additional 90 degree turn. He says after this the ARP studs are really not needed. Does anyone know if this sounds correct?
2. I'm probably going to delete the truck. I am not looking for big horse power or torque increases. I only want dependability and any better fuel mileage I can get. If I get a few more ponies out if it that's nice but I don't need a bunch. I've seen the Sinister delete kits and a few others but am wondering if deleting at this stage is recommended, which one to get and where to purchase from. I am aware that if I do the delete I will need the tuner.
Thanks all for taking the time to read this and for any info.

 

Just about guarantee it got the bearings with antifreeze in the oil. I wouldn't use the stock bolts for those torque settings. It is a good possibility the EGR cooler cracked and that is where the antifreeze came in.

 

Welcome to the DTR...

I cant comment on the head bolt torque specs so I will let the smart amongst us fill you in there.

I used the H&S delete kit but rather than block off the coolant hose I put in a piece of heater hose to keep the coolant flowing, I've had really good luck and great service and pricing from peak diesel performance.
If your going to delete you might as well do it now if your going do a strip down for diagnostics and rebuild, its less stuff to put back on and then your engine can have a clean point to start from.

 

Not exactly what I was hoping to hear but was prepared for it. Can those be checked and repaired in frame or not. Thanks also for the input on the studs.

 

You will have to pull it. Crank will more than likely be scored.

 

Again, not exactly what I was hoping to hear. I guess this is a little premature until I inspect the internals but at what point do you just do a rebuild or is it easier to get a reman long block.

 

If you've never been into an engine before, knowing what to look for in damage is an art that eludes many.

Besides the cooler going bad, antifreeze can be present because of a blown head gasket or, less likely, an engine oil cooler leak.

I've been pulling down 6.7s that I buy as cores and I have noticed that even though they do tear up the bearings a lot, the cranks can many times clean up with a .010-.010 grind.
It appears (to me anyway) that the 6.7 bearings are a softer material and tend to transfer it to the crank in low lube situations at idle or low speed.
However having a pressure problem, or dumping antifreeze into the crank case at road speeds is a pretty fair guarantee of more serious damage occurring.

Something like the picture below is an example of someone pushing their luck after they already KNOW something is seriously wrong:

 

Ooooooo, that is so ugly !

 

Got the head partially off but cant get it all the way. The pushrods on cylinders 5 and 6 hit the cab before coming out.
The only stuck cylinder was 6 and it also shows some moisture through the exhaust.
On a good note the engine did spin without any grinding or binding heard or felt. I have the front of the truck off right now. This engine is coming all the way out for a complete inspection or rebuild.

 

I would say the 3rd gen is like the second gen, there are rubber plugs that allow the pushrods to come out thru the cowl...........

I can't believe Dodge would be stupid enough to not follow what it had done before.


Pulling the engine is the right way to do this one though.

 

Yep, just found out about the cowl plugs. Still going to pull it though. I also found the ring gear a bit chewed up when we were turning it over so it really needs to be replaced. So either drop tranny or remove engine. With everything else going on with this one, the engine is coming out.

 

Any update?

 

Sorry for the long delay on the update.
Pulled the engine and had dropped valve in #6. Obviously wrecked that cylinder, the head on that cylinder and the injector.
Did a complete rebuild .020 over and put a different head on it with studs. Somehow when that happened the EGR and DPF fell off also. Engine is back in now and runs strong. I am getting ready to do gauges and I am debating on wether I need a tuner or not. The truck runs good and definitly stronger than my old 7.3 but I might want a little more for towing and would definitly like the CEL gone.
Any body care to share their thoughts on this. I am thinking the EFIlive autocal lite. I really dont want to upgrade the trans right now and my main objective in this rebuild was really just dead nuts reliability and the best fuel mileage I could get. Extra HP would just be a bonus.