Here you go.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ehzhz432ojidf6e/WSX6CwRZMm

These are the only ones that I have. If anyone has any different tunes, shoot them too me and Ill add them in.

 

hey Blake, how you doing man? Hey is that an updated m.e. file? I've got the smarty jr, m.e. on mine. No issues with. I've just been wondering lately if I need to update it or just leave it as is?

 

I have a different file do you want it? I don't know how to add it on there it is SJ67V606BR27ME.SMT

 

How do I download to my smarty from drop box

 

Not hard, just click on the file and you go to the download page. Click on download to load it on your computer. If its a 7z file you'll have to unzip it using the 7zip program to get the smt file extension. From there its the normal procedure to load the tune onto the smarty.

 

Hey Blake, is the website still up? I clicked on the dropbox and it's disabled.

I'm looking for a ME version for a JR67 that's is newer than v6.05A. Or is this the final version before being pulled off the web?

 

Since Blake's link is broken you can go here for the Smarty tunes:

Smarty Jr Me Tunes | Smarty Tunes
Smarty Sr ME Tunes | Smarty Tunes

They're free for the taking...

 

there gone

 

Oops, sorry. I forgot to update the links when I changed sites and I can't edit my other post.
Here's the new links:
SmartyJr- https://www.dropbox.com/sh/kywi3odf4...Ori7VWjta?dl=0
SmartySr- https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0mqpa98io...opVKMlFja?dl=0

 

Which ones on the Jr. Would be good for towing

 

It's not so much which tune is the best for towing but what settings are the best.
Mads recommends running the newest tune but the tunes from 28me to L are good tunes. Which one you run is up to you and how it performs in your truck.

As for settings, mads recommends no higher than the 70hp tuning (sw2) if you're stock (but deleted). If you've got a stock 68rfe then I would personally leave the torque management (TQ) on stock (#1) to help lessen the strain on the trans and moderate (#3) timing advance (TM).

I tow 8k on these settings with good results.

 

The bore is 4.72 inch x 4.02 inch stroke and another engine is 4.8 in.bore x 4.02 stroke. These are better engine because it is usually design for automatic
transmission. Because it has no connecting rod to the piston rod per piston.. The piston rod is in between crankshaft journal bearing and piston pin per piston reciprocating engine. But some engine do
have Per see each piston with non-swivel piston rod connect to connect rod and bottom of connect rod is tighten to the crankshaft with the main bearings. Because so the stroke is much longer distance.
For manual stick transmission then the stroke is Y type motor 4.03 stroke x bore 3.718. It would mean there is more room for piston rod to rotate in the motion controls by crankshaft reciprocating the
pistons. The engine is long block if available from crate and industrial since the motor is 1964 year make. Or choice is 4 inch bore x 3.98 " stroke with around 4.2 axle ratio in more like DANA 12 inch ring gear or 10 inch ring gear connect to the pinion gear from Mazda truck heavy duty Datsun. See I've written that 4.03 minus 3.718 inch equals point 312 differences so that the piston rod cannot hit the bottom of the cylinder wall. The prototype is normal engine long block is being crate only if serious trucker will buy a better starting capable since the engine end and stop the production in 1996 a.d. The motor was compression of only 8.8:1 ratio. and Chevy did better in performance Brigadier gas engine 10.5:1 compression ratio. The Ford does not use intercooler for the Turbo Ford at least 300 cubic inches for riding in Alaska. The Impala Super Sport uses intercooler in warmer weather in lower 48 states.
Many Ford F-350 diesel did not start any good because the intake air were too cold. The Chevy 2500 HD have two fuel tanks: one for diesel and second tank for starting fluid like gas and ether blend. The Ford F-250 and F-350 have two tanks for fuel but one is 17 gallons capacity rear tank and it is too large for starting fluid fill up includes brake fluid for starting the engine but disadvantage is we don't want to clog up and wet the filter with fuel. This is the year 2025 and making more straight Six engine for real torque at bottom end low rpm. Their V8 engine is small block so the deck height is around 9 inch. We prefer deck height around 11 inch minimal with durable manual transmission 6 speed MAZDA plus reverse speed for high gear ratio is recommended for 4.11 axle ratio forward motion.
.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ehzhz432ojidf6e/WSX6CwRZMm

These are the only ones that I have. If anyone has any different tunes, shoot them too me and Ill add them in.[/QUOTE]

 

Do you mean the preloaded SW levels or custom MM3/Touch files? Most of the old downloadable “tunes” aren’t shared publicly anymore, so you’ll be using the Smarty’s built-in SW levels or getting a shop to build an emissions-compliant MM3 tune. For a mostly stock 6.7, a safe starting point is SW3–5 with torque management on and timing around T2, then log and watch EGTs/rail pressure and adjust from there. Also make sure your truck’s calibration and trans/clutch are up to it, and skim the sticky for setup/troubleshooting—keep it legal for your area.