NO load range C tires on these trucks. Ive seen a cummins with C rated tires......lasted a month before the sidewalls were starting to crack and seap air out.

 

Yes I will!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Thanx for all the tips guys. I will go with a 35" to counter the .78 OD on the G56. I would rather not pony up the cash for 18" rims. When I do new rims I want to peel off the chrome covers and flat black the stockers (to match the eventual flat black bumpers & grille).

Thanx again.

 

[QUOTE=jmccart;1421233]I need some taller tires. Will I notice a diff. between D & E tires? My truck is a single wheel and I tow a 35' trailer that has a GVRW of a tad over 10k.

Toyo makes an E rated 35/12.5/17 that I am considering. The other 35/?/17's I read up on seem to be D.


Thanx.[/QUOTE

In my Powerstroke days I went with a "D" rated tire and pull a trailer around 10K, had a blowout. Would not recommend going to "D", stay with "E", speaking from experience, Thats my 2 cents

 

Hate to say it but you couldnt be more wrong...

Yeah pretty much...

This is a very common misconception. The load capacity really doesnt have much at all to do with how "tough" or how "durable" a tire is. Its the PLY of the tire that has alot to do with how "tough" or "durable" a tire is. A D rated tire is going to wear (durability) faster than an E will when your towing heavy. Another point being, you have a greater chance of puncturing or blowing out the sidewall (tough) when towing heavy with a D rated tire.

Im not trying to be a smarta$$, just being devils advocate, please dont take this post personally, just trying to help others from mistakes ive seen and made.

With that being said, could he run a D rated? Yeah, probably wouldnt hurt much? Should he? I wouldnt...

just my 2

 

I was kidding about C tires....

as for my towing, my trailor is tagged for 20,000.... and I leave home regulary to make a 140 mile drive with up to 27,000lb gross weight.... actually, i have done it every weekend since i have owned my CTD 4 months.... weight ratings are just ratings... I loose trailor tires, but keep my bearings packed and have yet to loose a wheel bearing.. The other guys that do the same work as me tell me the DOT around here just looks for you trailor to be registered for the weight it is hauling.... and of courese if you have breaks so you can safely pull the weight.
The most my CTD has pulled is 33,000lb (a pair of peanut trailers loaded hard) but they are 4 wheel trailors that you can only go like 20 with....

 

I agree w/ deerefarm06, I do alot of driving around down at my lease (11,000 acres) and the oil well guys have some of the roads all screwed up w/ large rock for road fills. I can see a d rated tire taking a sharp rock or 2" mesquite stump thru the sidewall, and a e rated deflect due to the stiffness. I have been surprised (or lucky? ) but the stock e rated 265- bfg's can take alot of punishment. They've yet to chunk any rubber on me, yet.

 

Yes, you are. At least you're aware of it I guess!

Tires have load ratings for a reason.
Our trucks come stock with E-rated tires for a reason.
E-rated tires are specifically made for our application. D-rated tires are for 1/2 tons.
E-rated tires are stronger than D-rated tires, despite the weight ratings.
E-rated tires are designed/tested to haul the max weights over a longer period of time than D-rated tires.
Any old tire might work just fine...how much do you value your life???

 

80k towing heavy...I guess the proof is in the pudding.

I do value my life...not sure where that come from.

So are we assuming that all plys are equal?

Explain to me...what the DOT, Insurance company, or "GOD" would say in this situation...

Rear axle tipping the scale at 7200 lbs.

Choice A....two E load rated tires rated at 3500 lbs.
Choice B....two D load rated tires rated at 3700 lbs.

I think I would choose B.

 

"3' of snow guy" or "80k with D-rated tires guy" or "open diffs work like lockers guy". Either way, it seems like you just try to be that guy no matter what the situation.

The DOT and insurance companies could simply say that you replaced the stock E-rated tires with lower rated tires not intended for your application. You seem to ignore the fact that the higher E-rating DOES have stronger sidewalls and is tested/rated to run the max weights for longer sustained periods of time.

As cheap as DC is don't you think they would put D-rated tires on from the factory if they had that option???

 

I would say that you are overloaded.............
Think you need DRW or look for one of the 4500's maybe a 5500 to get what you need for the weight you tow.

I do know what you are saying about the snow, that is why I have always had two sets of tires, One for snow and mud, the other for tow and road...
If you are needing to tow in 3' of snow, for safety reasons get a snow cat.
I have been all over the US and lived in a lot of snow areas, and never needed to tow in more then 2-3" of snow. Anymore snow then that, we got a tractor out. Been out west in the rockys and in ND an SD, but never on a us route or interstate that had more then a few inchs before being plowed when I had to be out.......
Jon

 

Your ignoring one fact...find a 265/70 D rated tire with a load rating of 3500 lbs? You can't find a D tire rated that high unless it is a taller bigger tire.

I just walked outside outside to my "pile" of old tires...and cut through several sidewalls with a cut off wheel.

The OEM tire...was the thinnest and easiest to cut. The ole 37 BFG MT rated at 3700 lbs...was 2x the thickness, the nylon plys were much thicker diameter strands, and the entire "ply" count semed to be more than the OEM's.

Anyways...

Where are you "getting" your data?



I just re-read a bunch of the CFR (Code of Federal Regulations) and the Federal Motor Carrier Saftey Administration.

The ONLY difference in the testing proceedures between D and E tires are the maximum amount of tire pressure. The tires are tested at those limits for there load carrying test to meet the criteria for the stated maximum load.

So...in short. A "D" rated tire that is load rated for 3700 lbs at 50 psi is just as good at carrying that load as a E rated tire rated at 3700 lbs at 65 psi.

The durability tests use the same plunger rod diameter...the speed test uses the speed listed on the speed rating...etc etc.

A "E" rated tire rated for 3500 lbs max at 65 psi is NOT tougher or better in any way than a "D" rated tire rated for 3700 lbs max at 50 psi.

At 3700 lbs...the "E" tire above is overloaded...while the "D" rated tire is not. Period.

There are thousands of pages to read...go do it. It is part of my job...I know what I am talking about. Half of my business is DOT inspections on Bulk Transport Trucks and Trailers. I guess you might consider me "certified" since I have a DOT license.

Your doubt is killing me...and I have no reason to spread "false" data.

I am not saying he needs "big" D rated tires for a tow beast...but if he wants 35 inch tall tires...there are safe, legal, and effective choices out there. I also stated how he can identify those which options are viable.

Find a tire with the load rating that will work for you, don't under or over inflate that tire if you want it to perform correctly at that rated load, and never look back!

The testing proceedures use the same speed and duration to rate a tire at a given load. E's use higher air pressure than D's in that test. So you will never be able to find a SAME SIZE D that will out perform a E at the same load...but that is not what we are talking about. We are talking about finding a larger size tire that will work...and WORK GREAT.

Not that it matters...but look in my reader pics. As Hank Jr would say, "I live the same life that I am singing about..." blah blah blah.

 

Yes , but putting tire size to the side, you clearly stated that a D rated tire with a higher weight rating will outperform and outlast a E rated tire with a lower weight rating when towing heavy, because you say that:

and...

Once again, not being an a$$, just reading between your lines.

So, going by your theory, my company could theoretically(sp?) put D range tires(which doesnt exist, but theoretically) on our 379 pete that pulls 40-60ton on a daily basis as long as the load capacity on the tire matches up with the weight that we haul? I dont think he would make it out of the yard without blowing the sidewalls outta all 18 tires...

 

Ok I just got of the phone with goodyear tire and rubber engineer and was told this.
The biggest part of load range e tires is the fact they have a higher psi rating.
The higher psi will make the tire run cooler and last longer due to less friction in the tire. Second was the fact that the side wall was built to have less flex from a side to side and twist under braking. That makes it track better and be more stable on the road and for towing. He also said that going larger and more air volume will give you more load becauce the load is spread out over more tire. The down fall of going to a larger tire is that it will make more heat and cause quicker wear on the tire. The heat build up will increase the tire pressure, making it softer, and have a lot of give and flex.
He said that if you are not towing just get a tire that will carry the weight but also said that he can not tell you, you can get a tike other then what was oem spec.
Also that the tire "if much bigger" will work like a drag slick in reverse, under a lot of load the tire will twist and roll under its self and that is when most blow outs happen.

So take it for wat its worth and thats what te people that make it say, and I tend to follow.

One more thing he said looking at my notes that the ply load rating are a cross over from old tires.
And E rated is known as a 10 ply and that had to due with the tread and sidewall on the old tires. Just because it is an E does not mean that it is a 10 ply just that it is equal to a 10 ply tire.

Jon

 

I was only a stating that the way a tire is rated...which proves that it exceptable for the stated load. A 3700 lb tire is...exactley that...safe for 3700 lbs.

The is what the testing/rating process is for. Its great reading learning about the testing procedures.

Fact is if the tire is rated for something...it is tested and proven to work under those conditions. Just like anything else.

Nothing more...nothing less.

I am aware of the ply rating...it is old old terminology.