View Poll Results: Isolator, yes or no??
YES, get one or you will be sorry!!



39
52.00%
NO, they are a waste of money, just run a straight line to the gauge.



9
12.00%
NO, they don't work properly and are a pain in the rear.



9
12.00%
I run straight diesel into my cab to the gauge, with no leaks to date.



16
21.33%
I ran a straight line of diesel to my gauge and it leaked!!!



0
0%
Bacon!!! (please explain......)



9
12.00%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 75. You may not vote on this poll
Who's running a fuel pressure gauge with a isolator??
Registered User

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,640
Likes: 0
From: Surrey BC Canada (it's not that bad eh!)
My DiPricols just came last week, and I haven't put them in yet.
I ordered them without an isolator after treading on here about all the problems they cause (even though they seem to kinda make sense), I'll be using a needle valve instead.
QUESTION:
Do I need to 'bleed' the line going to the gauge?
I ordered them without an isolator after treading on here about all the problems they cause (even though they seem to kinda make sense), I'll be using a needle valve instead.
QUESTION:
Do I need to 'bleed' the line going to the gauge?
Well there isn't really any clean way but I always removed the line from the gauge, held my thumb over the end and turned on the key (to let the pump run, you might have to bump the starter to keep it running for a while). Slowly lift your thumb just to let the bubbles out and shove the line back into the gauge.
Like I said it's not clean but before it worked when I had the isolator. I'll say this again if anyone hasn't already bought gauges GET AN ELECTRONIC GAUGE and eliminate all the hassles.
Like I said it's not clean but before it worked when I had the isolator. I'll say this again if anyone hasn't already bought gauges GET AN ELECTRONIC GAUGE and eliminate all the hassles.
Fisherguy:
Another way to "bleed" the system is as follows.
We use a plastic syringe, like those that are used in clinics or by vets. I know that the pet stores have them such as "Petsmart" or "Petco."
We fill the Isolator first with antifreeze using the syringe. Then go inside the truck and remove the hollow plastic line from the back of the gauge. Have a friend or family member hold the other end of the hollow plastic line (under the hood where it is going to attach to the Isolator). With the syringe about half full, stick the tip of the syringe into the hollow plastic line and SLOWLY push the plunger on the syringe until the person at the other end sees antifreeze flowing CLEAR WITHOUT ANY BUBBLES OR AIR. You can empty the excess antifreeze into an empty plastic butter dish or cup. As soon as you see CLEAR ANTIFREEZE WITHOUT AIR BUBBLES attach the line to the Isolator.
At this point, start the truck and see if the gauge and presssure is reading alright. If not,.... repeat what I said above.
As I said above in my other post, I have had more trouble with the electrical FP gauges than I ever had with these mechanical/isolator type gauges. The sending units on the electrical gauges just do not seem to last. Personally, I think the diesel fuel deteriorates the inside of the sending units over time.
Hope this helps you some. Good luck.
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John_P
Another way to "bleed" the system is as follows.
We use a plastic syringe, like those that are used in clinics or by vets. I know that the pet stores have them such as "Petsmart" or "Petco."
We fill the Isolator first with antifreeze using the syringe. Then go inside the truck and remove the hollow plastic line from the back of the gauge. Have a friend or family member hold the other end of the hollow plastic line (under the hood where it is going to attach to the Isolator). With the syringe about half full, stick the tip of the syringe into the hollow plastic line and SLOWLY push the plunger on the syringe until the person at the other end sees antifreeze flowing CLEAR WITHOUT ANY BUBBLES OR AIR. You can empty the excess antifreeze into an empty plastic butter dish or cup. As soon as you see CLEAR ANTIFREEZE WITHOUT AIR BUBBLES attach the line to the Isolator.
At this point, start the truck and see if the gauge and presssure is reading alright. If not,.... repeat what I said above.
As I said above in my other post, I have had more trouble with the electrical FP gauges than I ever had with these mechanical/isolator type gauges. The sending units on the electrical gauges just do not seem to last. Personally, I think the diesel fuel deteriorates the inside of the sending units over time.
Hope this helps you some. Good luck.
-------
John_P
Registered User

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,640
Likes: 0
From: Surrey BC Canada (it's not that bad eh!)
Thanks John,
That's what I was thinking of doing except since I'm not using an isolator I'd be injecting diesel from the gauge down to where the line will go into the needle valve.
Since then I've learned it's not really neccesary. Pressure on the gauge is pressure on the gauge, whether it's applied by air or a liquid makes no difference.
Anyhow, looking forward to getting it done, thanks for the advise all!
That's what I was thinking of doing except since I'm not using an isolator I'd be injecting diesel from the gauge down to where the line will go into the needle valve.
Since then I've learned it's not really neccesary. Pressure on the gauge is pressure on the gauge, whether it's applied by air or a liquid makes no difference.
Anyhow, looking forward to getting it done, thanks for the advise all!
This is not true! Air can be compressed. A liquid cannot! This is why you must bleed the lines.
You must be on the pirate 4x4 board as well, with an option like Bacon
I run an isolator, mostly because I didn't want fuel going into the cab. I like it. It was a little more money, but worth it IMHO.
Scott
I run an isolator, mostly because I didn't want fuel going into the cab. I like it. It was a little more money, but worth it IMHO.Scott

