View Poll Results: Turbo for Daily Driving/Towing @500HP
HTT 57/14
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What Turbo for an Upgrade? Daily Driving Towing@500HP
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From: West Warwick, RI
I'm in the same boat. I tow a 7K pound trailer regularly and want to have it streetable when I don't tow. I do have the TST so I would like to be able to crank it up a notch. I was considering the Phat Shaft 62/12, as I think this will be more than enough for what I want to do (for now). I also need to do a Torque Converter, and valve body too. I think with that I'd be good for a while, however when I find that money tree, full tranny, and twins are in order. But for now I'm looking for something that will keep me a bit cooler, give me some more air to the motor. that's why I think the 62/12 (or similar) would work. Not sure if I need the 14cm exhaust housing honistly but I think either the 62/12, or 64/12 would be perfect. I dont' want surge or anything as it's my daily driver. Look forward to the results. What causes the surge that some claim? To big of a exhaust housing? or compressor wheel?? I would think the exhaust but I'm new to this too.
Tom
Tom
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From: Tupelo, MS
Just trying to keep this thead alive and get as many responses as possible before I make a decision.
On a side note, I talked to HTT and Industrial injection today. HTT reccomended their 62/12 and said it's only $150 to upgrade to the 14cm exhaust housing if I buy it and didn't like my egt's. Industrial said their Super Phat Shaft 62 is the way I should go. Given the HTT 62/14 is $1495 and the SPS 62 is $1795, and after the tech at Idustrial even admitted that their standard Phat Shaft 62/14 is not quite as good as HTT's I'm leaning towards the HTT for now. Does any one know of a cheaper alternative than these two that would give me what I need?
On a side note, I talked to HTT and Industrial injection today. HTT reccomended their 62/12 and said it's only $150 to upgrade to the 14cm exhaust housing if I buy it and didn't like my egt's. Industrial said their Super Phat Shaft 62 is the way I should go. Given the HTT 62/14 is $1495 and the SPS 62 is $1795, and after the tech at Idustrial even admitted that their standard Phat Shaft 62/14 is not quite as good as HTT's I'm leaning towards the HTT for now. Does any one know of a cheaper alternative than these two that would give me what I need?
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Elko, NV
Just to follow up on AK Ram's post above - here is a cut-and-paste response I gave to DTR member syndicate on another forum:
The thing I also found IN MY OPINION with the 66 in general, and especially when towing, is the boost is either on or off. When it's on, you're doing 80+mph just like that (snapping fingers now). The 62 allows for boost to be built quickly still, but in a more controllable manner. Lastly, having to drive around surge really got old fast because I just lost the window of rpm and road speed that I normally drove in.
The bottom line is you have to be realistic and honest with yourself about where and how you do most of your driving and then pick the turbo for that application. This is the best advice I can give after spending some $ to get where I am now happy. I don't need twins, I just want them!
I'm just happy that Industrial injection and High Tech Turbo are 3 hours down the interstate from me...
Anyway, the following shows some data I referenced in the quote above. All dyno numbers were uncorrected and done at Dyno-Mite Diesel and Meridian Motorsports. Dynoing at either place with the same mods produced pretty close actual numbers. I haven't dynoed the SPS 62, but I am hoping to Friday, March 17 back at Meridian. I'm expecting the numbers to be a hot, unsustained ~500 HP +/-. When I dynoed the 66 I gained 28 HP over the 62 with essentially the same mods, except for different vendor 100 HP injectors. These pics are also in my gallery.
I went from stock to a HTB2 62/12 to HTB2 62/14 to SPS66 to the SPS 62 I am running now. I should have stayed with the 62 flavor turbo instead of venturing to the 66 line because I just got curious about all the hoopla. If I wanted to drag race and sled pull 100% of the time, then the 66 would probably be for me.
Otherwise, the 66 wasn't for me due to surge when towing and empty as well as about 1-2 mpg loss in fuel mileage due to running around at low boost and high EGT with 100 HP injectors. To counter this it seemed like I had to buzz around town especially in a gear lower than I normally would to keep the boost and throttle response up. Further, in town driveability sucked hind tit due to throttle response "off-the-line".
Like AK stated, the SPS 62 is good for sustained ~425 HP based on my experiences towing and dynos I did of the injector/box combo I use. The only thing I noticed with the HTB2 62/14 versus SPS 62 is that the drive pressure on the SPS was a bit lower due to the slightly bigger exhaust housing and therefore seemed to run with a little less "peaky" boost than the HTB2 62/14 (using boost as a measure of "restriction" in the engine). The bottom line for me is that if I want to run around towing with more than 425 HP sustained then I need (I mean want) twins!
When I got my SPS 62 I ran it through various scenarios to come up with a boost versus drive pressure graph. In addition, I compiled all my dynos and did a "turbo spool comparison" and proved (to me) how much the big single costs you in spool time. Same box and injectors cost 0.3 seconds from 100 HP to 350 HP just by going to a 66 from 62! The data also shows how much a cam
helps in turbo spooling. In this case same box, but bigger injectors/exhaust housing/cam = 0.6 seconds faster from 100 HP to 300 HP!
Otherwise, the 66 wasn't for me due to surge when towing and empty as well as about 1-2 mpg loss in fuel mileage due to running around at low boost and high EGT with 100 HP injectors. To counter this it seemed like I had to buzz around town especially in a gear lower than I normally would to keep the boost and throttle response up. Further, in town driveability sucked hind tit due to throttle response "off-the-line".
Like AK stated, the SPS 62 is good for sustained ~425 HP based on my experiences towing and dynos I did of the injector/box combo I use. The only thing I noticed with the HTB2 62/14 versus SPS 62 is that the drive pressure on the SPS was a bit lower due to the slightly bigger exhaust housing and therefore seemed to run with a little less "peaky" boost than the HTB2 62/14 (using boost as a measure of "restriction" in the engine). The bottom line for me is that if I want to run around towing with more than 425 HP sustained then I need (I mean want) twins!
When I got my SPS 62 I ran it through various scenarios to come up with a boost versus drive pressure graph. In addition, I compiled all my dynos and did a "turbo spool comparison" and proved (to me) how much the big single costs you in spool time. Same box and injectors cost 0.3 seconds from 100 HP to 350 HP just by going to a 66 from 62! The data also shows how much a cam
helps in turbo spooling. In this case same box, but bigger injectors/exhaust housing/cam = 0.6 seconds faster from 100 HP to 300 HP!
The bottom line is you have to be realistic and honest with yourself about where and how you do most of your driving and then pick the turbo for that application. This is the best advice I can give after spending some $ to get where I am now happy. I don't need twins, I just want them!
I'm just happy that Industrial injection and High Tech Turbo are 3 hours down the interstate from me...Anyway, the following shows some data I referenced in the quote above. All dyno numbers were uncorrected and done at Dyno-Mite Diesel and Meridian Motorsports. Dynoing at either place with the same mods produced pretty close actual numbers. I haven't dynoed the SPS 62, but I am hoping to Friday, March 17 back at Meridian. I'm expecting the numbers to be a hot, unsustained ~500 HP +/-. When I dynoed the 66 I gained 28 HP over the 62 with essentially the same mods, except for different vendor 100 HP injectors. These pics are also in my gallery.
Last edited by metal_miner; Mar 2, 2006 at 12:05 AM. Reason: spelling!
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From: Tupelo, MS
WOW!!! That's what I've been needing pure and simple facts without all the fluff. I knew right from the beginning that I had no need for a 66 size compressor housing. The main thing I'm trying to decide on now is between a 12 or 14cm exhaust housing. Stieger, so is it your advice I go with the SPS 62/14?
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From: fredericksburg, virginia
I have a ps64 and can build boost as low as 1400 rpms if I'm lugging it. Normal driving and it really reminds me of the hx35 on my 2nd gen truck when it was stock- boost builds controllably up to 20 lbs, starts spooling at maybe 1600 rpms. Above 20 lbs it acts differently-seems to be very peaky- straight to 45. I haven't been able to hold 30 lbs, but have a slipping clutch and can't do much testing =\ Driving around normally I'll see 15-20 lbs and I like seeing that boost spike hard when I punch it hard (my clutch doesn't 
), but that may be why some people see surging issues when towing =\ Just my 2 cents
), but that may be why some people see surging issues when towing =\ Just my 2 cents
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Elko, NV
Originally Posted by streetsmoker
Stieger, so is it your advice I go with the SPS 62/14?
The SPS 62 exhaust housing is a hair bigger than 14 cm so spool may or may not be an issue although there are a few 3rd gen heavy towers on TDR that have this turbo and love it. I think with your injectors and especially how I noticed the Juice dynoed (flat torque curves just like factory) that you'll have no problem getting things going off the line, especially with the smaller, lighter compressor wheel in the 62 (versus 66). The only party pooper in this though might be the automatic. Maybe or maybe not...
If you don't like the 62/14 variants or outgrow them, they are a perfect building block for twins and are relatively easy to upgrade/downgrade in terms of compressor and exhaust sizes.
Regular PS or SPS or HTT or B1 brand - you can't go wrong with any of them!
Hope this helps...
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