i'm really interested in one of these kits. i'll send Tim a PM.

 

got this kit installed yesterday as well flushed my radiator. its SO nice having this piece of mind now.

 

i made my own for 56 bucks!

 

I am not at all being smart but from a good source opies kit is above and beyond what the average person can get. Not saying it's not an easy kit to build but apparently you cannot get the valve he uses. It works off both pressure and temp and was picked out for that reason. Anyway I still say if you are going to run your truck hard you need some type of bypass.

 

I already have one.. except I got mine from West Texas Diesel Performance.. alot cheaper

 

yes i know but there are cheaper alternatives. if yo uhave a never ending wallet get opies kit if you are like me then i guess ill spend that money elsewhere.

 

Well, I don't have a never ending wallet - the thought of a BIG repair bill due to the damage the overheating in the rear of the block causes and the pressure stuff blowing that rear freeze plug is what motivated me into installing the OPIE. EIGHT GRAND + engine - $400 was a SMALL price to pay for some insurance.

While there might be a cheaper way to do this, the OPIE has been proven, I am not into experimenting with something that could end up costing me a whole lot more in the end game.


CD

 

Can get the same insurance with other kits for alot less. Myself I prefer a kit that takes pressure where it is the highest at the rear freezeplug. My kit is not as pretty but It works and I think better then relieving pressure from around the corner and halfway up the head. Maybe not but just my opinion.

 

well there is a ton of guys running them in high high horsepower applications so you be the judge. if i had the money yeah i would buy the opies kit but i do not

 

I am still wrapping my head around why there has to be such a cost involvement behind this. The 3rd gen 5.9 internal casting back at cylinders 5 and 6 have a choke point that does not allow the return flow to be as good as the rest of the block. When you push the power it creates too much internal pressure in the back of the block and blows freeze plugs. It can happen on the older blocks also, but it takes more to get to that point. The reason for the by pass kit is to have a pressure relief point so freeze plugs don't get blown out. By no means am I an engineer or diesel motorhead that knows the 5.9 100%. But, if there is a choke point back there already because of the design, then why not just do the bypass without the relief valve? Would it disrupt proper cooling back on cylinders 5 and 6 if it didn't have the relief valve? If that is the case, then when the bypass lets pressure relieve, you would disrupt the proper cooling anyhow. But, I guess it would only be for a very short period vice all the time.

 

from what i understand, the valve is only open at certain temps or pressure. so most of the time it may remain closed and the cooling system will function like normal but when you hammer down on her and the pressure builds up too much it will bleed off that pressure. if you built one w/out the valve i'd imagine it would still work but it would take ever longer to warm up the block. it takes me for ever as it is because i don't drive mine hard till its up to temp. just my thoughts unless i've misunderstood what your saying.

 

Can you share the parts list, or make a thread with links/pics to the parts?

 

I dont know if this answers your question but if you ran a bypass with no valve it would basicaly be like runnin with no t stat, and your truck would never warm up. I ran with a barp clipped off my tstat, wich is leaves a very small hole and it took forever for the truck to warm up even in the south in the summer.

 

yes if you have just a bypass it will just dump coolant into the top rad hose and it will never get heated up which is bad. if you have a pressure relief valve that only opens when the pressure gets too high then you will be ok. i have mine set at the lowest setting which is 50. now i dont know what opies is set at but the guys who blow out plugs see as much as 100 psi in the back of the head which is why it will blow freeze plugs. i have mine set as low as it will go at 50 it is a brass valve i cant think of who makes it but it is 3/4 threads. i figure 50 psi is way better than 100.

other guys who sledpull get there trucks warmed up and then open just a normal valve to allow full flow and a full bypass, that way they arent seeing high pressures either!

 

Hello,

I am a bit foggy on this whole pressure vs temperature thing. It is a closed system. As I understand it the boost pressure should not play a role. It is the pressure generated by the mechanical water pump. So when the coolant is relatively cold(higher viscosity) and you get on it the likelihood of raising the pressure is greater at this choke point. So why does HP play a role in the recommendation to get a bypass system? I can see rpm being the big driving factor.

Damon