What is normal?
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DTR's Night Watchman & Poet Laureate
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From: Lyndon KS
Yes, you have an 04.5. Anything built in 04' is an 04.5. My truck was built in 01/04 (Jan, 04)
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From: Lyndon KS
Yeah.
Doing an air box mod (swiss cheese the bottom) and removing the baffles from the air box tube (tube from air box to turbo), making sure you have the upgraded Dodge paper filter or a good aftermarket air filter (NOT K&N) and getting a more free flowing exhaust will help you out a little. Make sure you have as much weight out of the truck as you can, if you stay local take the spare out too... Programmer and synthetics will help too, but that's more $$, and you will have to have the truck a while to break even on gains.
Get the truck flashed and make sure the maintenance is good... you're on the right track.
Doing an air box mod (swiss cheese the bottom) and removing the baffles from the air box tube (tube from air box to turbo), making sure you have the upgraded Dodge paper filter or a good aftermarket air filter (NOT K&N) and getting a more free flowing exhaust will help you out a little. Make sure you have as much weight out of the truck as you can, if you stay local take the spare out too... Programmer and synthetics will help too, but that's more $$, and you will have to have the truck a while to break even on gains.
Get the truck flashed and make sure the maintenance is good... you're on the right track.
i just bought myself a 05 6spd manual and love it!
drove it 500 miles home at 2000 rpm and got 17.5 mpg. thats pretty normal from what i hear. now here's my plan- run 35s, smarty, and good fuel pressure. If this truck is anything like my 95 then 35s will drop the rpms enuf to gain mileage but not bog it down either. for some reason i got significantly better mileage in town (18) and hwy (24) with those than stock.
much bigger and i think mileage will start going down. I work with a guy that has the same truck as me and he runs a smarty jr on sw3 and sees about a 2 mpg increase in city and he dont drive it easy either. he also tracks and hand calcs every fillup so i know its legit. between these two i hope i will be able to hit 20 hwy mpg. thats the plan anyways
13-14 mpg sounds a little low but can be achieved depending on air filter and injector and fp condition. and a heavy right foot like mine
drove it 500 miles home at 2000 rpm and got 17.5 mpg. thats pretty normal from what i hear. now here's my plan- run 35s, smarty, and good fuel pressure. If this truck is anything like my 95 then 35s will drop the rpms enuf to gain mileage but not bog it down either. for some reason i got significantly better mileage in town (18) and hwy (24) with those than stock.
much bigger and i think mileage will start going down. I work with a guy that has the same truck as me and he runs a smarty jr on sw3 and sees about a 2 mpg increase in city and he dont drive it easy either. he also tracks and hand calcs every fillup so i know its legit. between these two i hope i will be able to hit 20 hwy mpg. thats the plan anyways13-14 mpg sounds a little low but can be achieved depending on air filter and injector and fp condition. and a heavy right foot like mine
Thread Starter
DTR's Night Watchman & Poet Laureate
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From: Lyndon KS
Yeah.
Doing an air box mod (swiss cheese the bottom) and removing the baffles from the air box tube (tube from air box to turbo), making sure you have the upgraded Dodge paper filter or a good aftermarket air filter (NOT K&N) and getting a more free flowing exhaust will help you out a little. Make sure you have as much weight out of the truck as you can, if you stay local take the spare out too... Programmer and synthetics will help too, but that's more $$, and you will have to have the truck a while to break even on gains.
Get the truck flashed and make sure the maintenance is good... you're on the right track.
Doing an air box mod (swiss cheese the bottom) and removing the baffles from the air box tube (tube from air box to turbo), making sure you have the upgraded Dodge paper filter or a good aftermarket air filter (NOT K&N) and getting a more free flowing exhaust will help you out a little. Make sure you have as much weight out of the truck as you can, if you stay local take the spare out too... Programmer and synthetics will help too, but that's more $$, and you will have to have the truck a while to break even on gains.
Get the truck flashed and make sure the maintenance is good... you're on the right track.
Can you run a BHAF in these? doesnt look like theres room
plan on getting a Smarty Jr, probably keeping this truck fo rat least 5-6 years..
What oil are most running in these?
Thanks mark, probably wot loose the spare, my tore-up gravel road is too hard on tires to go out without one.
Can you run a BHAF in these? doesnt look like theres room
plan on getting a Smarty Jr, probably keeping this truck fo rat least 5-6 years..
What oil are most running in these?
Can you run a BHAF in these? doesnt look like theres room
plan on getting a Smarty Jr, probably keeping this truck fo rat least 5-6 years..
What oil are most running in these?
Yes on the BHAF. It fits but it is tight..I made a homemade intake tube to make mine work.
Oh yeah... you have a dually... fuel mileage isn't going to be as good...
That's what you get for having training wheels... sorry buddy. Might look into a super single or something?
That's what you get for having training wheels... sorry buddy. Might look into a super single or something?
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From: Lyndon KS

Well, the shop called me, U-Joints are OK, the vibration was a broken belt in the RF tire.. Gonna have them flush the transmission since its there and adjust the shift points.
Hope to have the truck back tomorrow night.
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
DON'T flush the tranny! Man, you need to drop the pan and change the filter!!! You can have them flush it after they drop the pan and change the filter if you want, but don't do that crap as a means to change the fluid.
DON'T flush the tranny! Man, you need to drop the pan and change the filter!!! You can have them flush it after they drop the pan and change the filter if you want, but don't do that crap as a means to change the fluid.
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From: Lyndon KS
They are dropping the pan hen flushing it. It's slamming hard into OD, shakes the truck. They said it will make sure nothing is blocked up or dirty, then they are gonna adjust the bands and check the governor pressures.
This shop has done a couple tyranny s for me on my FirstGen's and I trust them to know what they are doing
This shop has done a couple tyranny s for me on my FirstGen's and I trust them to know what they are doing
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From: Lyndon KS
me too...........I hate lemonade..
The independant dealer I bought it from got it at an auction where it was being sold by Patterson Chevy of Tyler Tx.. who took it in as a trade. Got paperwork on all that..
Patterson had the transmission rebuilt, but there was no paperwork about it with the truck. Service Manager told me where they had the work done and I called the shop and confirmed it.
It LOOKS like a reman tranny, all clean and pretty and there are brand new mounts on it, still have clean part # tags.. BUT it shifts HARD into 5th..
Patterson says it is because of an after-market valve body they had put in, so does the shop in Tyler that did the work..
Topeka Transmission says " yea, that could be, BUT it still probably shouldnt be as hard a shift as it is, and it acts like the governor controlling the valve pressure isnt properly adjusted".. they recommended flushing the transmission to see if there is a blocked port or metal flakes possibly in there......
Since that includes checking the governor pressures and adjusting the bands, I said, "sure"..
Hopefully this and having the ECM flashed is all I need to do to get a decent running truck!

The independant dealer I bought it from got it at an auction where it was being sold by Patterson Chevy of Tyler Tx.. who took it in as a trade. Got paperwork on all that..
Patterson had the transmission rebuilt, but there was no paperwork about it with the truck. Service Manager told me where they had the work done and I called the shop and confirmed it.
It LOOKS like a reman tranny, all clean and pretty and there are brand new mounts on it, still have clean part # tags.. BUT it shifts HARD into 5th..
Patterson says it is because of an after-market valve body they had put in, so does the shop in Tyler that did the work..
Topeka Transmission says " yea, that could be, BUT it still probably shouldnt be as hard a shift as it is, and it acts like the governor controlling the valve pressure isnt properly adjusted".. they recommended flushing the transmission to see if there is a blocked port or metal flakes possibly in there......
Since that includes checking the governor pressures and adjusting the bands, I said, "sure"..
Hopefully this and having the ECM flashed is all I need to do to get a decent running truck!
Thread Starter
DTR's Night Watchman & Poet Laureate
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,156
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From: Lyndon KS
I can live with it as long as its not damaging the clutch packs or anything else in there, that's my only real concern with it


