since im getting now axle shafts with the dynatrac conversion would normal oem u-joints even work?

 

NAPA or Moog greaseables are fine for you.

 

what is moog?

 

ok i found out what moog was threw google..

is this the front u-joints i should get?

PRECISION Part # 464 {U Joint - Premium}
Front Steering Axle; 4WD; Double Cardan Joint; 2 Required

how do i know these are greaseable?


and for the rest of the truck what should i get? i want to replace them all...



PRECISION Part # 534G {U Joint - Premium}
Front Shaft at Front Axle; 4WD


ACDELCO Part # 45U0108 {#89029290}
JOINT KIT,F/AXL PROP SHF FRT UNIVERSAL -; PREMIUM; DIAGRAM V, POSITION 3 - REFERENCED IN PAPER CATALOG; 4 WHEEL DRIVE


PRECISION Part # 330A
At Transmission; 2WD; w/Auto. Trans.; Reg. Cab or Quad Cab w/Short Bed
Rear Shaft at Transmission; 4WD; Exc. 6 Spd. Man. Trans.; Reg. Cab or Quad Cab w/Short Bed
At Transmission; 2WD; w/Auto. Trans.; Quad Cab w/Long Bed
At Rear Axle; 2WD; w/Auto. Trans.; Quad Cab w/Long Bed
Rear Shaft at Rear Axle; 4WD; Exc. 6 Spd. Man. Trans.; Quad Cab w/Long Bed
At Rear Axle; 2WD; w/Man. Trans.
Rear Shaft at Transmission; 4WD; Exc. 6 Spd. Man. Trans.; Quad Cab w/Long Bed
Rear Shaft at Center Bearing; 4WD; Exc. 6 Spd. Man. Trans.; Quad Cab w/Long Bed
At Center Bearing; 2WD; w/Man. Trans.
Rear Shaft at Rear Axle; 4WD; Exc. 6 Spd. Man. Trans.; Reg. Cab or Quad Cab w/Short Bed
At Center Bearing; 2WD; w/Auto. Trans.; Quad Cab w/Long Bed
At Transmission; 2WD; w/Man. Trans.
At Rear Axle; 2WD; w/Auto. Trans.; Reg. Cab or Quad Cab w/Short Bed


PRECISION Part # 234 {U Joint - Non-Greaseable Super-Strength}
Front Shaft at Front Axle; 4WD


PRECISION Part # 235 {U Joint - Greaseable Super-Strength}
Front Shaft at Front Axle; 4WD


ACDELCO Part # 45U0136 {NON-GREASABLE U-JOINT #89029318}
JOINT KIT,F/AXL PROP SHF FRT UNIVERSAL -; HIGH STRENGTH (NON-GREASEABLE); DIAGRAM V, POSITION 3 - REFERENCED IN PAPER CATALOG; 4 WHEEL DRIVE

ACDELCO Part # 45U0110 {GREASABLE U-JOINT #89029292}
JOINT KIT,F/AXL PROP SHF FRT UNIVERSAL -; HIGH STRENGTH (GREASEABLE); DIAGRAM V, POSITION 3 - REFERENCED IN PAPER CATALOG; 4 WHEEL DRIVE


PRECISION Part # 351A
Rear Shaft at Rear Axle; 4WD; w/6 Spd. Man. Trans.
Rear Shaft at Transmission; 4WD; w/6 Spd. Man. Trans.
Rear Shaft at Center Bearing; 4WD; w/6 Spd. Man. Trans.


PRECISION Part # 464 {U Joint - Premium}
Front Steering Axle; 4WD; Double Cardan Joint; 2 Required


ACDELCO Part # 45U0305 {#19114064}
JOINT KIT,F/AXL UNIVERSAL -; PREMIUM; DIAGRAM V, POSITION 9 - REFERENCED IN PAPER CATALOG; 4 WHEEL DRIVE; LH/RH

 

since your doing the hub conversion, i belive with verry minor modifications you can use the 5-806x joints from spicer
if i recall caps are the same but to get the snap rings on your inner shafts you'll have to mak a pass or two with a flat file.

 

gus is there anyway you could find out for sure? instead of using a file maybe i could chuck the u-joint up in a lathe and take off .0002 instead of using a file?

 

This is the same joint I used on my rear 3 piece. A very stout joint IMO and a zerk for greasing. You'll do fine with this joint.

 

The same company most NASCAR cars use.

 

will these work with an auto trans tho?

 

...............

 

If you want the best, get a CTM.
No its not off the shelf, but he can make them for you.
It ain't going to be cheap though.

 

Go to NAPA and buy replacements...they have them and they hold 575 hp fine on 37's.

 

I never had great luck with Precisions they lasted longer than stock for sure but Spicer Originals as per Gus's advice is what I run....They are greasable and they are as cheap as most but seem to last well and feel good on install. I have a quote somewhere on a great front drive shaft replacement that I think Gus recommended. I'll look for it if you are very interested. ks

 

all i know is ill never buy a truck that has new axles on it, what a pain!

 

well i dont have a shaft out to measure the spread, but i do happen to have a 806 sitting here.. they are 2.925 to the snap ring grove's inner edge, 3.100 to the outer. ive seen some people use a thinner snap ring.

and yes jack @ ctm will make you anything, so will sandy cone, but who wants to deal with that hassel on this aplication. the strength would be way overkill, the locking hubs used in the kit wont hold enough torque to break a spicer joint... so to make ctms worth while he'd need drive flanges, oh, and then the ctm's would be useless inless he plans to change bushings on a weekly basis, and it would negate a major reason for the swap in the first place, the locking hub......