the 62 65 13 ss and ss manifold from htt. the a3000 from ats is a disaster, you will lose about half of your very low end torque. it was a killer to towing starts . also throws p0299 codes, it is more suited to kids that play. in the for what it is worth department. you lost a little by taking the baffles out of the elbow and removing the silencer ring, the baffles in the elbow are straightening vanes, they work with the ring to reduce side shear in the turbo giving higher compressor efficiency. not familiar with your intake just make sure it is sealed where no under hood air can enter it. on the other side of the turbo get a cfm+ and grid heater delete

 

Dang, that is a very sharp looking turbo. Hmm, since I do tow often and temps may get high now and then I'll probably go ahead with the SS.

I've been thinking about the Smarty, but have heard the Bully Dog runs better with the dodge electronics. But not sure, they cost about the same and yes, I do get more options. But can I mess with it on the go?? I would love to roll the coal, and know that BD does really well on that(when not pulling that is)

 

i just read ah64id. he is correct on every point. to replace the baffles i have a suggestion go back to stock air box and add a psm kit, cool hose and tag. i like the ddp 50 nozzles. if you install a pdr cam at the same time as the nozzles you save all of the labor. with the smarty jr, pdr, ddp, htt, 5", cfm+, grid delete, cool hose and tag combo you will get 42% more mpg towing than stock and 350*cooler egt. it will be the best tow rig you will ever own in your life

 

I have looked at getting the cfm+ but where can I get it, and how much? Tell me more about the pdr cam? Where to get it, and how much, and why?? I have a friend that took out his grid heater too, I'll look into that. Sounds pretty good to me, I'm all about setting my truck up for a great tow rig, but also wanna play on the weekends or so.

 

Look at a GDP horn over a CFM+, its cheaper, metal, and has nearly identical results. But the best part is it is compatible with their MK2+ filter kit, which puts a 2um filter between the OE filter bowl and the CP3

I too am more interested in the PDR cam. I am planning a cam upgrade in the future and was originally looking at the Helix 2, but hear the PDR is better for towing and closer to stock trucks.

 

Yeah, just found the CFM+, kinda pricy. And how much better really would getting a HTT SS manifold be, versus my stock, once I do everything? Will it be worth the....I think $750 to get it, or that's not a huge thing to worry about?

 

Its a big thing when you're pushing serious power, when cams and twins and tweaked cp3 come into play. They are beneficial, but IMO not $750 worth. I'm gonna do a 2nd gen manifold for sure, mainly for sound quality but also because its been said that it spools the turbo much better.

 

Ok, with what I'm doing I may be good skipping that but def getting the Intake horn, not sure what brand yet. Seen them from $250-$400

 

I think you are going down the dangerous road of "It never ends"!

We went from a simple turbo and injector upgrade to talking about cams and exhaust manifolds. With the cam needs to be mentioned springs and possibly pushrods. And now your at a power level that studs should be considered a priority.

You were talking about only spending $2k on things, now your easily going over $3500 not including labor.

I'm assuming the $2k didn't include the injectors. So even at that your looking at $1700 for the turbo.(price will vary, a little) so with the additional $300 look at an intake horn.

Yes cams and exhaust manifolds are nice, and do produce more power and faster ramp rates. Well worth the money. But lets be realistic. You didn't sound like bombing the truck was you intention. I have seen huge hp numbers made on the stock cam and manifold, and even intake horn.

If your tight with money, as we most are nowadays, your stock turbo will do fine for a good while with 50hp stixs. Your EGTs will be controllable and you will see a nice improvement in power.

Good luck my friend. It always starts with "I just want a little more" and quickly turns to," I might as well go a little further". This road can be dangerous and warning signs are not always posted. When you start building on a budget, it is very important to take the weekest link out first, even when it doesn't gain you any hp. Tow rigs are one of the hardest things to build in my opinion, simply because you are wanting power at work instead of just power at play. Reliability is of the highest importance.

You should talk to a doctor, or in my case, your wife. You have the disease BAD!

 

Ok, I think I've narrowed down what I am getting. Tell me what you guys think.....

Going with the HTT 62/65/13ss, along with DDP 50hp injectors, and a new intake horn. Sounds like it's going to be a really nice setup. I think I can do those mods right now and be ok without gauges or a fuel system, it's not adding that much, and the new turbo should help it stay cleared and cool real well?? If I have to get gauges, I'll get the pyro and boost, nothin else for now, but don't really want to do that if you guys think I may be fine with that new turbo?? Let me know what your guys' thoughts are, might be ordering some or all of those this week, thanks!!

Within the 2009 year, will be doing the fuel system, and either bully dog, or smarty and more gauges then a nice clutch...should be fine with these 3 things for now though.

 

Honestly, if you want the turbo and stix more, ditch the horn for now and focus on GAUGES (you do need them, more than you think) and fuel system (pump). You wanna make sure you supply plenty of fuel and you need to know where these mods will put you as far as how your truck is running. I know that sounds a little discouraging, but when you want to mod like that it always involves more than you expect, because one thing leads to another. The intake horn isn't that important, you can make do without it. If you have the money to spare, go for what you want. As soon as you get this taken care of a new clutch will be coming into the picture, and so on. I wish you luck my friend, the swarm is coming, next thing you know you'll be wanting 500hp.

 

Yeah, I knew one thing leads to another. I was hoping I would be able to be ok with the turbo, but I really shouldn't even be buying it right now. I'll just get what I can I guess. I was buying them because the good deals on them, I don't want to spend the money on the fuel and gauges right now, but guess I'll get the inj. and intake horn and then get the gauges before installing anything, then the fuel, inj. then turbo.

 

One more thing, if I go ahead and order this turbo....if I didn't do anything else to the truck right now, would it be ok to put the turbo on it? Would it perform just a little better the rest being stock, then build onto it later?? Or will the turbo be a little laggy cause there's no fuel going in other than stock?

 

Don't waste your time on DDP 50s, you wont be able to tell they're there except milage might increase some. GO w/ 90s at least.

 

I wouldn't think it would be terrible, but thats just an opinion. The turbo is expensive, so if you want it and can afford it go ahead and get it. You already know that there will be more coming down the road. Like I said, one thing leads to another.

Gauges, Fuel, then Turbo. You will be wanting a programmer of sorts to help out down the road so do some looking around here on the forums, lots of info on modding like this.