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-   -   Smarty Jr. And DDP 50's. Expected Whp and Wtq? Start to a project thread...... (https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/3rd-gen-high-performance-accessories-5-9l-only-107/smarty-jr-ddp-50s-expected-whp-wtq-start-project-thread-293233/)

Got Soot? 08-03-2011 12:37 PM

Smarty Jr. And DDP 50's. Expected Whp and Wtq? Start to a project thread......
 
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Hey all!

I have been lurking here for a while educating myself for my next truck purchase.

I chose an 06 3500 Crew DRW 5.9 G56 with 3.73's.

I was debating on going older to get the NV5600 because I have the tools to build those....hopefully the G56 doesent bite me.

First impressions on the truck are marginal. Im a former 6.0PSD and D-max guy so the Cummins torque curve is pretty flat compared to V8's. But....I tows quite well. Has the typical Dodge wander in the steering, I ordered some new parts and a stabilizer to address that. Rear end hobbles alot accellerating on rough pavment, hoping some bilsteins will help. My former duallys did not do this...

I placed a large order with Glacier Diesel and dealt with Rich Martin.
He was excelent to deal with and very helpfull with my order.

So heres the start to the mods list. Many changes are upcoming im certain.

-Smarty Jr
-Raptor 150 kit
-Liberty sender
-Double header with CAT filters and GDP blockoff plate
-Isspro EV2 boost/LP fuel/Pyro
-DDP 50 nozzles (got a low mile used set)
-South bend SDD 3250GK twin disk kit
-6" .180 wall aluminum 1 piece rear drive shaft with Spicer snap caps.

The plan is a -8 pushlock from the tank all the way to the CP3, overkill..yes, but done once and right. Install DDP tips and Smarty Jr and gauges to monitor from there. LP pressure at 18-20 Psi.

Truck has a factory 4" turbo back, I blanked the cat out and installed a used MBRP muffler delete....kinda feeling stacks though.

Removed all restrictions from factory intake hose and opened up inlet to airbox, install a high flow air filter.

Wondering what to expect from the Smarty Jr and DDP nozzles in the feel and actual power numbers? Opinions on Smarty Jr. Stacks?

Any thought or additions anyone has to add? Im doing the work this weekend, so ill post pics of the complete LP fuel system install and finished product.

Thanks in advace for any input or information!

Heres a starter pic for my new tank!

-Ryan

CrazyCooter 08-21-2011 11:47 PM

Never played with a Smarty jr, just the sr. I would guess 440/820? Maybe a bit more?

Mine was crazy fun with the 50's in it. Without it feels like a slug now and made 472/848. The injectors make all the difference.....

89dieselkong 08-22-2011 05:30 PM

You'll love the 50's and Smarty Jr. setup. It is like a whole new truck. You'll need the Jr. to keep your EGT's in check, especially if towing. Good luck!

Got Soot? 09-22-2011 05:58 PM

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Its been a while and a busy few months at work. I havent had time to update this thread.

My used DDP nozzles fell through, the seller flaked. Unable to source new ones at this time (apparently they are unavailable at this time)

I have completed the following, and am much happier with the truck at this point.

-Smarty Jr
-Raptor 150 kit with 1/2 line all the way the the CP3
-Liberty sender
-Double header with CAT filters and GDP filter housing blockoff plate
-Isspro EV2 boost/LP fuel/Pyro

The problem is, now I have the itch to make more power. I see compounds in the future, But im wondering what I can do with wringing more from the stock turbo untill then. Im not seeing more than 1100-1150 on the exhaust with 5000 lbs. behind the truck and the Jr on the 100hp setting and everything on default with a heavy foot.

I am selling my Smarty JR and getting the S06 as a starting point.

Is there a way to make any more boost with the stock turbo? Im making 36 PSI now. From the maps ive seen the stock turbo is efficent to 44-45 psi. Is there a reasonable method for adding that extra 8-9 PSI, and are the gains worth the money?

I will ring and stud the head for compounds and would like to see 55-60 PSI with that setup. With some 50 nozzles and an S06 it should be a potent driver and a sweet tow rig.

I also got a steal on a complete set of clean Leather/suede seats

Heres a few pictures of the fuel system install, clean shampooed carpet and new seats. Ill add some more later today or early tomorrow.

AH64ID 09-22-2011 08:12 PM

With the extreme drive pressure the HE351 makes about 38 is all you want to run it to. There are some MAPs that show it good to 45 and some that only show 35, but all the EGT's do is go up at a very fast rate above 35-38.

As for power and towing, not sure where you live, but if you have any decent hills the 100 hp tune is more than the stock turbo can cool on a 6-7% grade with more than a 5K lb TT or 8K lb non bard door profile trailer. Even the SJR on SW1 will get the EGT's to climb above 1250° in 5th at 20K GCWR. I found that SW2 worked well with the stock turbo at 16-18K GCWR and only got too hot on 6-7% grades above 6K feet.

Did you leave the OEM fuel canister in place?

Got Soot? 09-26-2011 08:20 AM

I removed the OEM canister and went right to the CP3 with the -8 line. I live in Mn. There is not alot for hills around us, I dont forsee any mountain towing with heavy loads. At least its a quick switch to change tunes if the need arises.

How do you feel about a HE351 compounded with an S474?

Thanks for the information!

Nate-03 D 09-26-2011 10:20 AM

Looks like your project is comming along nicely. Where abouts are you in MN?

Could you give me any more info on your fuel system setup? Are you getting better filtration with those 2 CAT filters then if you were running the AirDog setup?

Got Soot? 09-26-2011 10:44 AM

Im not sure of what the filter ratings are for the Airdog. I believe you could use Cat filters on an Airdog though. I went with the Raptor because its supposed to be quieter and more reliable than an AD. Its just what I have read, so I gave it a shot.

Im just outside of St. Paul.

Got Soot? 10-09-2011 08:21 PM

Well, the trucks been laid up for over a week now getting some much needed attention. On the agenda this time is some needed things and some wanted things. Rear brakes were on the wear indicators and the ball joints were loose. Ive been trying to get to the bottom of the "rear end bounce" over bumps and on accell. as well, it felt to me like spring wrap and junk shocks. I clamped the front of the rear leaves together with vise grips and went for a drive, it was notablly better. So now I had a game plan. I work for Kremer Spring, we do leaf fabrication, modification and repair there (along with about everything else) So I planned for the following.

-Front and rear Bendix Fleet Metlock pads and premium rotors.
-Upper and lower ball joints and wheel joints while the hubs are out.
-Fat Bob's 2" leveling kit with 4 Bilstein 5100's.
-Remove rear leaf springs and refit leaves, and strap all fronts together.
-Thermostat and coolant flush/Belt and flush brakes and go to Dot 4.

I pulled the front suspension apart and got to work. I found newer front wheel joints installed already, It looks like they used an unorthidox method to install them, there was up and down play doth directions indicating the yokes may be spread. I made a call to our local drivetrain shop and they set me up with new complete OE shafts for both sides for 300/pair. (inners/joints/outers) already assembled. I bead blasted the calipers, brackets and spindles as well as all hardware and painted all parts semi gloss black. Pressed in the new ball joints and began to assemble again. I noticed the front unit bearings have a squeek to them like a wear indicator on a brake pad. So I needed to deliberate.......

The unit bearings are too expensive and they dont hold up as well as they should for the money, and im annoyed that these trucks roll the entine front driveline all the time. That just sounds like a reason to wear out more expensive parts....

So I spent some time looking at free spin kits and what they come with and require. I know the old addage about you get what you pay for. I looked at the Dynatrac, EMS and one other. After doing some reading and looking carfully at the kit contents I chose the EMS kit. It looks like for the dually trucks theres no comparison, and the price was easier to swallow. So its ordered, I expect it on on Oct. 13th.

So currently hung up on the front end waiting for parts :(

The Bilsteins and Fat Bob kit should be here around Oct. 13th as well. So I guess I have extra time to "polish" and make things look new again.

I pulled the leaves and brought them to work. Our spring guys did their magic and they went back in the trunk the same day for the ride home. I got the RH rear installed tonight, but I ran out of beer, so the other side is to follow:) I pulled the rear axles out and pulled the rear hubs/rotors. hubs have been bead blasted as well as the calipers/brackets and all hardware. Today I installed the new rear rotor and axle seal on the RH rear and reassembled. Looks shiney new.

Ill likely finish assembling the LH rear brake tomorrow and get the LH leaf back in as well as get the rear shocks pulled waiting for the Bilsteins.

I didnt take alot of "during" pics. Just some before and afters to see the progress and final product.

Ill post pics tomorrow, my camera died tonight taking some pics.

I cannot wait to drive this thing and feel the difference, It has just gotta be tremendous!!

Tedonlin150 10-09-2011 09:43 PM

Sounds like your going to have a real solid truck when you get it all wrapped up.

Nomad 10-09-2011 10:52 PM

Nice truck! You won't be dissapointed, mine goes to work for me every day and hasn't let me down once having put 80K kms on it in a year. My next mod will be a freehub kit, just deciding which one to go with also, keep us posted on how it works out for you.
Cheers!

jimbo486 10-10-2011 12:15 AM

For what any of the "free spin" kits cost, they really aren't worth the coin for the very little mileage gain you'll see, if any at all. Just my opinion, of course. But, to each his own. :cool:

If you're worried about the front unit bearings/hubs wearing out sooner than they should from the constant motion they see, they are greaseable. Just pull the ABS wheel speed sensor and push grease in the opening ;).

AH64ID 10-10-2011 08:05 AM

There are several advantages to the free spin kits, 2wd LO is the best, and bearing design is much improved. The mileage is just a bonus.

Got Soot? 10-10-2011 02:43 PM

There has got to be some notable mileage increase with freeing up all that rotating mass. The average I read was 1.5 MPG. I saw a few posts about the trucks steering much better and a reduction in the Ram "wander" as well as coasting smoother and quieter.

I love the 2wd Low option too, im case I need to move my house:)

Got Soot? 10-10-2011 08:12 PM

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Well, I sat down and loaded the pics finally. Heres a photo rundown of the current progress and situations.......


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