Yeah, I sure did. I have a ATS now.

What happen was.... the Suncoast plate comes laminated. Where it bolts to the crankshaft there was too much lamination.

Once it got hot, some of that lamination melted away leaving the bolts not torqued anymore. They all backed out and one came out completely.

Suncoast was made aware of this and I'm sure any plates coming out of there now will be a little cleaner.

 

thats interesting. I run the same flexplate is why I asked. maybe I should check mine out to see if they are tight

 

Jesse, Let me know what you find out!!!!

Shane

 

It might be a good idea to. I've seen a couple other people mention theirs were loose too.

The damage caused on mine anyway, was to the crankshaft threads. It wallowed them to where they had to be tapped.

 

Does anyone have a spare rail. I am willing to try this! I will also dyno to see if any real gains are made.

 

I just had a stage 3 cp3 with a modded rail done by Bobby. I guess i'm in bed with Bobby too then! Bobby's personal truck has had the same cp3 and rail i have for 30,000 miles with no problems. It all boils down to one persons word versus another. If you dont think the rail should be coated, then dont coat it. Mine is coated and I will continue to do all my business with Bobby!

 

On the billet rail I would say that the ones that are already made arent gonna hold that preassure unless its tested to that preassure.

Maybe if you used like 6061 T6 (one of the hardest grades of aluminum) that had alot of wall thickness to it you would be ok.

The threads would possibly have to machined into the end of the whole bar with a long threaded slip nut also rather than drilled and tapped like most of the common aftermarket rails I have seen as I dont think the 3/64th threads that would remain probably wouldnt hold the preassure.

Im no metalurgist (nor can I probably spell it) but I am sure the rails with AN fittings that the gassers use are very light weight and thin. Not up to the task. I ran a fuel rail on our Gearte double pumper carb on our 406 powered dirt car a few years ago and bent our spare one night buy laying an impact gun on it in a hurry, not too tough.

Anyways it is a very good doable project, as someone stated, in the hands of a good machinest. Just my .02.

If TY or 97 or one of you guys that dont mind I would love a PM with both peoples number to chat with them both.

 

they both had links up already

 

OK thanks I missed the T&C one. Mustve been speed reading er sumthin. I have to mouth all the words as I read them so I just skim over stuff that dont look important...........like links and stuff I guess.

 

Mine was done by TWest. You can find him on TDR. He told me, like others have said, that it was machine finish only,.... so I make no claim to know about the coating process which I too was told about.

I will say I think that as for hp increase it's lower than the 60hp stated,... at least on MY truck on on the dyno. I believe this mod will be variable based on what other mods you have,... especially lift pump and high pressure or dual cp3 mods. On my truck, prior to the dual cp3s which aren't on just yet,.. then the dyno was right at 30hp. Still when you consider $$$ per hp gain then it's a decent mod.

My shop checked pre and post rail mod specs and it's somewhere between 20% and 25% net increase in the volume of the rail.

The above is based on MY experience on MY truck. Hope this helps.

 

I have been running one from F1 Diesel for a while. The inside is not coated from factory. Don EDM' ed a extra one I had. The inside of my rail is polished to a mirror finish but no coating. I have had it over 27500 with no problems. Who needs a relief valve? Tim

 

There's more than one way to skin a cat...

No doubt the OEM rails are machine finish only, and perhaps some of the bored rails are properly coated - some metal coatings are harder and more durable than the substrate to which they're applied.

I don't think this mod will help unless your truck is experiencing a power-robbing rail-draining issue.

 

The ability to have and apply more fuel in a diesel motor equal more power. If you can supply the air to support the extra fuel.

 

So what kind of coating are they using anyway?

 

I'd be interested in knowing too. I've asked for proof it's needed or exists but, can't get it. From what I've been told... it's a coating sold to Cummins by Bosch

I find it real hard to believe that Cummins would take a product from Bosch and add it to something Bosch already made

This is just something everyone will just have to choose their side on. Both modders are adamant about what they're doing and both seem to be good mechanics. There's a lot of products out there that people prefer over the other for one reason or another.

I did my research and chose the one I was comfortable with based on what I found out.