Dont need to do anything with a 4" lift, 6"+ you need to index the transfer case....
(And if you have a 6spd or a longbed, shim the carrier bearing down)

 

not that the front shaft isnt already a piece anyway- but doesnt that put added stress on your u-joints? i mean in a jeep their drivelines arent taking that much abuse as far as hp/tq go. but in a diesel? pushing 35s... just questions i have concerning a possibility of going to 4"'s

 

No problems at all with driveline angles w/ a 4in. kit....you`re only talking about a 2in lift in the back , and 4 up front.

Like was already stated , the only time you get into any kind of issues , is when you go to the 6in. kit , you need to use the dropdown bracket for the transfer case (which is normally included with the kit).

As far as 37s...there`s someone on here with NO lift and 37s , and someone else with a leveling kit and 37s...it`s doable with the right wheel tire combo.

 

4.5 Fabtech 5.5 backspace 20x9 35"s

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The last pic......is that the stance with the 2" rear block?

Do you think a 1.5" would be too small?

Obviously the 1" block that comes with the 4.5" Fabtech kit is way too small.

 

Last pic was with 1" block in the back, here is another one from the side:

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And this one, with 2" block in the back.

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315-70R17s are about 34.5" tall by 11.75" wide roughly. Toyo makes their Open Country A/T in a 325-70R17 which is as close to a metric equivalent to a 35x12.50-17 as possible. Stacked97 is running them on his truck.

Scott

 

4in. Superlift
20x9 American Eagle ,35x12.5 MT Toyos
Used a 1.75 spacer on steady bearing of drive shaft

 

Thanks for the spacer info.

What is better, the spacer shim kits which come with a bunch of small plates that get stacked or a complete solid drop block?

How do you like the Superlift kit?

Which 4" kit do you have....they offer like 4-5 different 4" kits.........which basically just vary according to which shocks you have.

 

Also, how hard/easy/difficult is it to remove the upper and lower stock control arms?

The front bolts, close to the axle seem easy...........but the frame mounted bolts look like they could pose a problem.

Are any control arms bolts cut out, and should I go to the dealer and have some replacement bolts ready to go in?

 

Well, I am gearing up for a suspension overhaul!

I just went to NAPA and bought a Lincoln grease fitting kit and a new Lincoln grease gun....the old grease gun worked, but I had the urge!

I also acquired a case of 12 Mobil Synthetic grease tubes!!! Should last for a very, very long time!

I also bought two large 8.75 ounce bottles of Loctite, one in the Medium 242 and one in the High Strength 271. Very large bottles....I should be set for a long time.

I am also going to the dealer Monday to buy a set of the stock coil spring tower retaining rings (tossed mine after I installed the 2" coil spacers). They are amazingly cheap for a dealer part, at only $10 each.

I am just contemplating the trackbar issue. Most 4" kits come with a drop trackbar mount, which just re-uses the stock trackbar. I wonder if I should use the drop track bar bracket and buy a new trackbar, or should I pony up and buy an good aftermarket adjustable trackbar.....like the one offered by Thuren. Any ideas?

 

Do the Fabtech upper and lower control arms have any fittings for greasing the bushings?

If not, would it be worthwhile to drill and tap each end of the arms for zerk fittings?

 

Yes, they do have fittings.

 

Do you have any upclose pics of the Dirt Logis shocks?