Mods for 13.5 in 1/4 mile (2004.5 & 48RE)??
I agree with everyone else. Get rid of that power pup, I used to have one and it was nice, but on extreme it is only 130 hp. Get a Smarty or a triple dog with Crazy Larry and those will give you a lot more horse power. I would also think of going back to factory sized tires as I have heard that helps.
The stock tires would probably help my 60' times, but I'd have higher RPMs though the traps. I'd also have to reprogram the ECM for the smaller diameter tires. Not sure if I still have the same hookup at the local dealership for that. Aside from that, a buddy of mine owns a tire shop, so the tire swap wouldn't be a problem.
If I was you I would buy a bully dog triple dog or PPE hot 2, the crazy larry tune is nasty even for 2004.5's the only arena I see smarty dominating in is the 03-04's.
2004.5's-2005's are ridiculous with PPE Hot 2 and the newer 06-07 trucks run awesome with crazy larry, especially the 07's lookin to go past 3200rpm's without defueling which is what smarty does on them....makes them defuel.
2004.5's-2005's are ridiculous with PPE Hot 2 and the newer 06-07 trucks run awesome with crazy larry, especially the 07's lookin to go past 3200rpm's without defueling which is what smarty does on them....makes them defuel.
I can weld and have access to a bunch of other metal fabrication tools, so with that and a tight budget in mind, what gains do you think I'd see by doing the following...
- Exhaust dump prior to catalytic converter.
- Grid heater spacer & homemade 3" mandrel bent air horn.
- Cold air ducting directly to the turbo.
- Converter lockup switch.
The exhaust dump should spool the turbo faster (as it does on our turbo cars). From what I've read, the spacer & air horn provide measurable gains in low-end HP & TQ. Locking the converter at the top of 2nd should give me more power to the ground, earlier on (instead of in 3rd with "tow/haul" or 4th with "D").

Thanks,
Banning.
- Exhaust dump prior to catalytic converter.
- Grid heater spacer & homemade 3" mandrel bent air horn.
- Cold air ducting directly to the turbo.
- Converter lockup switch.
The exhaust dump should spool the turbo faster (as it does on our turbo cars). From what I've read, the spacer & air horn provide measurable gains in low-end HP & TQ. Locking the converter at the top of 2nd should give me more power to the ground, earlier on (instead of in 3rd with "tow/haul" or 4th with "D").

Thanks,
Banning.
Really??? Well my 2006 Dodge CTD CR gained MORE with the Smarty than it did with the Crazy Lary Tune.
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John_P
I can weld and have access to a bunch of other metal fabrication tools, so with that and a tight budget in mind, what gains do you think I'd see by doing the following...
- Exhaust dump prior to catalytic converter.
- Grid heater spacer & homemade 3" mandrel bent air horn.
- Cold air ducting directly to the turbo.
- Converter lockup switch.
The exhaust dump should spool the turbo faster (as it does on our turbo cars). From what I've read, the spacer & air horn provide measurable gains in low-end HP & TQ. Locking the converter at the top of 2nd should give me more power to the ground, earlier on (instead of in 3rd with "tow/haul" or 4th with "D").

Thanks,
Banning.
- Exhaust dump prior to catalytic converter.
- Grid heater spacer & homemade 3" mandrel bent air horn.
- Cold air ducting directly to the turbo.
- Converter lockup switch.
The exhaust dump should spool the turbo faster (as it does on our turbo cars). From what I've read, the spacer & air horn provide measurable gains in low-end HP & TQ. Locking the converter at the top of 2nd should give me more power to the ground, earlier on (instead of in 3rd with "tow/haul" or 4th with "D").

Thanks,
Banning.
JBanning:
On my 2006 Dodge CTD CR I saw an improvement of 1/10th in my quarter mile times with the converter lock-up switch.



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