That's right - I used a DeWalt grinder to open up the center holes of the aluminum wheels on my 2nd gen so the custom SS center caps I made in the shop would fit... and you'd have to be half-blind using two left hands & half in the bag to screw up the balance.

I like it tighter too, but you usually feel it in your wallet!

 

I read on Hooties directions that the wheels were "hubcentric", now I dont know who's right, but thats what Hootie said.

...so now with 4.776 and powder coating, will the wheels still go on, or did they need to be bigger? I noticed someone else did theres to 4.778 for PC?? What the heck, will I be fine or what?

 

These wheels are definately lug-centric. It's a matter of common sense. The nuts are run down into tapers and the center hole is clearanced over the hub. Obviously the nuts are centering the wheel and holding the weight. The wheel could not possibly end up any other place than where the nuts are centered without a major problem. Even the stock wheels have a clearance hole in their centers. It may only be a few thousanths but it is a clearance hole that does not support the truck, the nuts do that.

When opening up the center hole the two factors that are really important are:
1. That the wheel will go over the hub and into position.
2. That something is left of the balancing taper on the back of the wheel. This taper centers the wheel on the balancing machine. If the center hole is cut too big and this taper is gone, there could be a balancing problem.

This leaves quite a bit of tolerance as to the center hole size and also means that the center hole does not have to be perfectly on center or perfectly round to work perfectly. So, many of us have used hole saws and die grinders to do the job and we will never have any problem.

My position is that if you are comfortable using a Hole Hog drill you can do this little operation very easily at home with the tires on the wheels in just a few minutes at minimal cost. It's a no brainer. And once you have the tools you can do another set for a friend.

Wetspirit

 

Will the stock o6 caps fit onto H2 wheels after hoggin out the center hole ??

 

fishhog,

The caps have nothing to do with the center hole. They mount on the nuts.

Wetspirit

 

Yeah - there's no point in hoggin out the hole if yer gonna put the cap on yer nutz.

 

I hole-sawed mine a year and a half ago. No problems, and they still have the original wheel weights on, and no issues at all.

 

I've had a question for a long time that someone on here should be able to answer. With all the 1000's of aftermarket wheels available for these trucks giving your almost endless opportunities to make your truck "one of a kind" and really stand out. Why would so many people go to all the effort of custom machining a set of factory overpriced wheels. Just to be just like the next guy with the same factory overpriced wheels? I'm not flaming anyone I'm just curious. I would be asking the same question if you were driving a BMW M3 and went out of your way to make a set of wheels from an AMC pacer fit, why?

 

jfaulkner,

Because the H2 wheels are not overpriced and they are the perfect size for our trucks. Dodge should have put this size on in the first place. Since they are OEM wheels they will always be available if you break one. And, for me, I did not just go looking for wheels to prove I was different than everybody else. I wanted quality wheels that would mount 315s with no rubbing. It just so happened that the whole set of wheels and tires could be had for about 4-500 dollars and I don't think that's overpriced at all. And finally, I think they look better than the stock Dodge cast wheels.

Wetspirit

 

Price was my motivation. I have a total of $400 into my H2 wheels (including purchase price, machining and powdercoating) and they are powdercoated the exact color I want. Anything else will be twice that, at least. And there's always the problem of getting the proper offset/backspacing. The H2's are a cheap alternative that look good (admittedly not as good as a set of $400 ea Welds) and fit perfectly.

 

I see, cool just wondering.

 

ditto that....

not that the hub opening needs to be held that tight....

 

I opened mine up with a hand-held disc grinder...

 

Just got done doin mine. I did it with my Rotozip and a router trim bit. Worked out great and made fast work of it.

After I mounted them to my truck, I took it for a ride and there is no vibration or unbalanced tire type of feeling at all.

BTW, I did not notice any rubbing at all even with wheels turned to lock on either side. My suspension is still completely stock.

Now to figure out how I want to do the center caps.


MT

 

By far the best way to do the center caps is to cut 7/8 inch off the stock caps and snap them on. They don't stick out as far as on the stock wheels and they are very secure. But you must also grind a bit off the clips. Not where they contact the lug nuts but where the clip is folded and forms a flange. There is some extra metal there that will get stuck in the wheel recess (do a search for pix). It's the easiest part.

Wetspirit