Yes BigBlue, that's exactly what I was thinking. However one does have to ask! Naturally I wasn't thinking 40hp for free...But if it's less than a hundred clams, then...Well...

I went into the deal assuming that drivability of the 60 and 100hp setting on the race version would be identical to the 60 and 100hp settings on the standard version. I hope I'm right here, because I was sold on all the muy' positive reviews both here and over on TDR primarily centered around the standard.

For me "drivability" of the 140hp setting on the race version shouldn't be a concern too much....It's gonna' be a while (maybe ) before I get a clutch and turbo (did I just say that?!!) O'well, I'm the king of jinks! The point for me is that the special occasion's whereby I tweak her to the max will be...Limited? Hee, hee.... Fortunately I feel I'm at an age now wereby self-constraint is more prevalent than not...Man does this sound like a bunch of rationalization or what?

Still smillin'!

-D

 

I wouldn't necessarily bank on that. I've personally seen Quad write that the race version has more smoke than the standard version, and is more throttle sensitive. This leads me to think that Standard 60hp not the same as Race 60hp, or Standard 100hp not the same as Race 100hp. I could be wrong, but I would think the race version would be more aggressive. For example, even though both advertise 60hp and 100hp settings, these are both PEAK hp settings. I would think that the standard 60hp achieves its 60hp higher in the RPM band, and the Race box gets its 60hp earlier in the RPM band for increased acceleration (just a guess. Heck it sounds good to me). Time will tell. Definately let us know what you think when you get it. Worse case you can send it back to Quad and downgrade/reflash to the standard 30-60-100hp.

 

Don't worry about the smoothness. Even the 140hp is smoother than what you are thinking. The race box is just a little more aggressive, and by nature I tend to be a little on the conservative side.

 

Quad hopefully you can answer this, but I like most people, was assuming that the 60hp level was the same on both boxes, just that the race box loses the 30hp level and gains the 140hp level. Is this correct or are the 60hp settings different from standard to race?

 

I will hopefully get my 100hp zilla wednesday(please ups be good to me), I'll probably get sick thursday to stay home and install it. Then I will probably have to upgrade the intake to keep the egt's down. You all know darn well which position that switch will stay in.

 

Got my race version on the way. Thanks again Kyle. Can't wait to try it out. I see a new turbo in the future. Anyone got any sure fire ways to talk the wife into a turbo??

 

Thanks to Tomeygun I have a 100hp version. The power is awesome. And it is nice to finally blow a little smoke. I try to lug it to get even more, but it won't lug anymore! Just takes off I did slip the clutch on the 100hp setting while messing with a mustang. Fourth gear, full throttle. I also set a p0236 code, but I wiggled the connections and it went away. My idle seems a little rougher now? There is random pulsing sensation that you can feel and see as the shift lever bounces. I'm guessing normal. Anyone else?
On Edit: After further evaluation, I 'm thinking the box just accentuates the vibrations and buzziness already in the engine. At least mine anyway. Which I guess makes sense since you're bumping up the power already present. I've posted before about buzzy vibes and the conclusion I got is that they are the nature of the beast. The box is neat. It feels like your at full throttle with only quarter throttle input. I think I'm becoming an addict.

 

Has anyone with a rail pressure gauge measured what the quad box is pushing at the 100hp & 140hp settings?

 

The Quad box threw a code? I thought that was deemed impossible?????

 

If it was plugged in properly, it would not throw a code. We even block boost in the stock setting so if you use a boost elbow and turn it to stock you won't set a code.

We do no however block the CEL from ever coming on. If a connection is made poorly then the truck should illuminate the CEL as it truly has a problem.

It sounds like he got it plugged all the way in now and it is gone.

 

Hey qzilla,

Could you give us a rough breakdown of how much power comes from which method? (For example: 100hp setting - Timing: 30hp, Pressure: 30hp, Duration: 40hp)

This would be very interesting to know for all the settings: 30hp, 60, 100, and 140!

FB

 

It is really a little tough to give you any exact numbers as we follow the factory's parameters. In some cases we use almost no additional pressure, and in others we use more pressure and almost no duration. You would be shocked at how much different conditions cause the ECM to make huge changes.

I would say on average with a full throttle run on a 100hp box we get about 50hp from pressure and about 25hp each from timing and duration. This keeps the rail in check. There are times where we use a little more timing and less pressure. Also keep in mind that this would be a full throttle pass or dyno run. At lighter throttles we advance the timing more, but we back it off at higher boost levels to keep cylinder pressures down. This is an example of why it is hard to give exact numbers.

 

qzilla - Without revealing anything proprietary can you tell us how you are preventing the rail pressures from surging past 26K under any circumstances?

I'm ready to buy & this is my last concern.

I had the money saved up for an Attitude it looks like you've beat them to the punch.

 

I hate you all...

mine ships tomorrow...

that is all.

 

We don't ever command the rail above 26K. Remember whether you actually command the sensor, or try to fool it, you still have to tell it how much you want it to have. The only part you don't have 100% control of is when the ECM tries to correct and it can get slightly spikey at times.


Quad