Hey guys I've got an 05 with 35s, 3.73s, and an NV5600. I tow anywhere from 10-14k and installed a smarty jr not too long ago and keep it on the 70hp(tow) setting. (I love it BTW) I'm looking for a good pyro to go in the A-pillar. What brand would you guys recommend?

Do you guys take off the manifold when tapping for the probe or do you just keep the engine running to blow out the flakes?

Thanks

 

I'm buying an Auto Meter setup, they have gauges with the Mopar emblem on the face, pretty sweet

 

I haven't done one on the Dodge yet, but with my Ford, I used a shop vac to suck out the filings. I had no problems as a result.

 

Most descriptions I've read say drill slowly and use grease to contain the chips. And lots of guys seem to like Isspro, some AutoMeter and occasionally DiPricol. I think they all have a model or two that closely matches the factory cluster.

 

I used a drill index and went up one number at a time. (yes, that’s a bunch of drills) I also did it with the engine off, because if the drill bit did break inside the manifold, I could still go in and get it. If the engine was running, it would have been new turbo time.

Joe

 

I've done several and I dropped the turbo a little and slid a piece of sheet metal under the manifold flange to catch the chips. Cast iron really makes fine chips and I won't do it that way anymore. I'll stick something in the tailpipe to raise the exh. pressure and drill it idling. Craig

 

Drill it, use a shop vac, then a pen magnet. The few reminents left behind haven't done any harm in 120,000 miles since doing mine.

I towed my 12k 5vr back from MD to TX going the northern route through PA, OH, IN, MO, AR and into TX. Granted I didn't encounter any seriously steep hills, but I never saw my egt go past 1175° running the Smarty Jr. on the 40hp tune.

 

I agree with NavyDood - I used a 1/4" bit first with lots of grease and turn the bit sloooooooooowwwwwww so that it doesn't fling the filings around. Also you can feel as it is about to break through the manifold. Take the bit out regularly and clean it and add new grease. Also the pen magnet is a must as I got lots of filings out afterwards. Poke it around in there until there are no filings coming out. Where one drills is not above the turbo anyways so the filings sit on the bottom part of the manifold. I did not take the turbo off, just started it up and let it idle for about 5 minutes first.

 

like others i used a flexible pen magnet. just keep putting down in the exh. manifold until you dont bring up anymore shavings

 

I installed two pyros both pre-turbo one on each side of the manifold so I can monitor cyl. 1-3 and 4-6. Isspro perfomax are the best i've seen but spendy if you only want a pyro (I also did rail press, boost, 2 x pyros, and low press. fuel). After studying every post i could find on how to do this i came to several conclusions on how to drill and tap the manifold:

No to the engine running not necessary and if you brake the bit or tap its going right into your spinning turbo. Center punch where you want the hole and drill a pilot but do not go all the way through! Then with the appropriate size bit to go with your tap carefully drill out again being very carefull to keep the bit straight. Do not grease the bit! The flutes are designed to remove the shaving and grease prevents this from happening. And since you didn't drill all the way through with the pilot there is no way for any shavings to fall inside the manifold until the very end right as you go through the manifold! The very small amount of shavings that do drop come out with a shop vac and flexible pen magnet. I hardly pulled any shavings out and i drilled two holes! when you start it up for the first time any that remain will blow right through before the turbo even starts spinning....

 

I've been thinking about installing some gauges too. I was looking for something that had an alarm of some kind. Here are some links...

This one is digital and has an adjustable alarm and can send a signal out to turn another device such as a cooler. I don't know how well it would work but here it is: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=231

These guys in Australia build an analog gauge that has built-in visual and analog alarms. The visual alarm is a small light at the bottom-center plus a ring just inside the bezel also illuminates. Only bad thing is that its in deg C, but it's easy enough to convert at least for the alarm setting: http://www.roadrunneroffroad.com.au/...ble-Alarm.html

If you want to go with analog + deg F, VDO makes a series called Viewline. It has at least a visual alarm. I was not able to confirm if it has an audible alarm function as well. These are available at Summit, I beleive.
http://www.vdo-gauges.com/instrument...do-sender.html


If you try one of these, let me know how it works. Thanks.

 

I had Autometer not only replace a pyro for free, but upgrade me to a fancier line!

Service like that will bring me back.

 

I found this fairly decent install video. I'm not so sure that drilling your exhaust with turbo still in place is a good thing though.

 

Drilled my pyro with the turbo still on-- like thousands of other members have.

No problems in the 9 years, but maybe it's a reaaaaalllly slow-acting failure?

 

Unlikely, if its going to fail then it already would have IMO