I searched and found no real answer. On the Smarty Revo settings, I understand all their functions and what takes place on these setting. I understand the Torque Managment, Rail Pressure, etc... but.

I've been wanting to run my truck on the advanced timing for "mileage" but I'm not sure of what or if any long term effects there may be from running a timing that has been advanced? I understand high rail pressure and its long term effects, but is there any real concerns with timing? Thanks guys.



Jason

 

If you are not towing heavy Revo timing 4 should give you the best economy.

Too much timing is not a good thing. Advancing the timing causes the combustion temperature and pressure to increase and there is a limit for long term durability. So for daily driving timing 4 is ok. Towing something that will put a good load on the engine drop it down to 2.

Future plans of adding larger injectors, Nox or water/meth will also dictate which timing level to run (ie, less timing).

MikeyB

 

Lately, I've been towing around a 24k load. I have the Smarty on SW 1 and all the settings are Default. So, 0 being default, 1 being stock, and 2 being stock injectors, which should I run? Not sure I understand the difference between 1 and 2 if 1 is stock....which I have stock injectors, and 2 being....stock injectors. With a 24k load, should I be running 1?? Is anyone actually gaining mileage by running #4 anyway?

I would like to know....going off whats in my signature...........
what is the best settings to run empty in town/highway
what is the best settings to run while towing heavy

Not sure why I have such a difficult time understanding this. Thanks for the help.

 

What is the actual timing advance for the different settings? I think that they are different between the revo and tnt and that is what confuses me.

 

Exactly. I can understand information a little better when theres tons being offered. MAD's webpage just tells what settings are what. Not how much they advance timing, injection pressure, what causes torque managment to react the way it does. Does torque managment have a better reaction due to advance engine timing, or rail pressure??? What? What does too much injection pressure or timing cause. Pro/Cons...How about too little? What about long term effects on injectors, pistons, etc...? What is safe for a pretty much stock truck empty vs loaded. What changes EGT's for the better/worse....timing, rail pressure? I'm so lost, yet everyone else seems to have it all figured out. I read and read and still can't find hard info on these settings. I would really like a great explanation on what max safe levels would be for day to day driving and why......and what max safe towing would be day to day.... and why? Any help would be highly appreciated. Thanks guys.

 

I have a so6 smarty and the manual says
1 = stock timing
2 = Advanced timing
3 = Between #1 and #2 timing for towing
4 = Wild advanced, what ever that means.

I have found for all around use that #3 has been best economy unloaded.

When towing you want to limit the advance, especially if we do not know how much advance it is getting. I have noticed the summer fuel is giving me more light load fuel knock. Anyone else notice this too??

Too much timing will melt pistons and there is no symptoms that it is happening. Too much timing does not increase power or economy either.

I suggest #3 setting for your use. And be near stock power or mild increase like you are doing. Use your boost gage and EGT too. Limit EGT to 1250 max (1150 prefered) and down shift when boost falls off and EGT rises when pulling. That's it!

 

Pretty good. So how about rail pressure now. Too much/too little effects? What is the advantages/disadvantages? Whats the perfect combo for like said earlier, towing/empty.

 

Too little and you will hear a poping sound and your truck will surge. Anything above stock is not reccomended for daily driving. Some have said they have run a little pressure for years with no issues, but I have been told by an F1 dealer that any added pressure can be an issue. Use pressure only at the dyno or track.

 

IIRC these are the numbers. The CR engines timing is dynamic, so these should be the max numbers.

Revo
1= 12 degrees
2= 18 degrees
3= 16 degrees
4= 21 degrees

TNT
1= 12 degrees
2= 21 degrees
3= 18 degrees
4= 16 degrees

MikeyB

 

Great info!! 16 deg was what we always set up the p pump 12 valve for best

all around performance and safe to tow heavy. More timing was risky and had little benefit. The CR is a different animal with multiple injections though.

 

Our CR engines are first designed to meet emissions as they cannot be sold with out meeting emissions. Then it is a quest for power and economy.

The NOx emission is one of the biggest to contend with. NOx is formed at peak pressures and temps. This means the old school diesel knock noise that is ignition delay and rapid burning for efficiency and cooler exhaust is the enemy of emissions. That diesel knock is indicative of very high momentary cylinder pressures, and NOx.

Fast forward... Tiny injector nozzle holes, multiple injections, high rail pressures for ultra fine spray, small ignition delay and gradual fuel introduction, throw in some EGR to dilute the air and slow combustion further and ...Voila!! the modern QUIET, low emissions diesel!! (It's no coincidence that the old mechanical Cummins was the noisyest and most efficient)

So, increasing rail pressure will allow slightly more fuel in quicker, but the pressures are already so high and the nozzles so small that the gain is slight and nozzle hole erosion is reality. Far better to install a set of bigger nozzles to relieve some pressure and let the fuel get in quicker. I would not alter rail pressure above limits recommended by the programmer mfgr. If Smarty says use this for towing I would load it in and leave rail pressure where they set it.

Bigger nozzles, say 50 hp to 90 hp will give mpg gains and power too. Bigger nozzles will atomize fuel at light loads just fine and shorten up the time to inject a given quantity.

Next tackle the cam because our engines close the exhaust valve BTDC intentionally trapping some exhaust to be mixed with the incomng air as an EGR effect. Those doing cam changes have reported some eficiency gains and great increases in response, low end torque, drivability, and cooler EGT. It's on my list. Air is oxygen rich and exhaust has less oxygen left in it after the burn so mixing it makes for slower less explosive (knock knock) burning. That's all it does. Well, it soots the oil and messes up a few other things!

All in all though the engine designers do a remarkable job of meeting tight emissions with out costing us more in economy. Hats off to them!

Sorry to rant but you asked! Carry on!!

 

1 2 3 4 ....... what is the "0" or default setting?