Hey guys. Sorry if this question has been beat to death but my new phone doesnt like the search feature.
Basically im wanting to know how you guys would get there? The truck is my daily driver and occasionally pulls a 30ft gooseneck. It already has a built ATS tranny and an airdog 2.
Thanks guys. Any help would be appreciated.

 

650-700hp and still be able to tow a 5ver....that's gonna take some careful parts searching there. You will need larger injectors....my guess is at least 100hp...that will diminish your mpg's if you're concerned about them. You already have the supply portion with your AD2 taken care of. Next you would probably need at least an Arson kit for your CP3 to flow enough fuel to the stix. A good set of towing twins would be next on your list. You stated you have a built ATS tranny....how much power is it good for?

Others could probably pinpoint you in the right direction but my list there is a starting point.

 

First, how much are you willing to spend? To do it right isn't cheap.

That much power and tow (I do it all the time) is going to require good twins. Smarty is a good start... you may need a pressure box stack too.

The injectors should be 90-100 hp. 90 will do 650 easy enough and with the right setup 700. 100hp stix makes it easier. Both of those tips create a lot of heat on the piston crown, air supply notwithstanding. You will want to invest in good water injection.

Studs will be needed. Coolant Pressure relief (bypass system) advised. CP3 work needed. Cam advised... Intercooler advised (not necessary, but helpful)

Also, the stage 1 ats tranny isn't going to cut it. Talk to the folks there at ATS about your power level goal and intended use and see if they don't recommend the stage 4 or a stage 3 at the least. All that power and 35" cooper st's towing a 30' gooser-- well, let's just say that is not powertrain friendly.

I am forgetting some other stuff, but others will chime in.

 

You will need the following:

1.) Turbo or Turbo's (compounds)
2.) Smarty or EFI Live
3.) Arp head studs
4.) Valve springs
5.) Cam upgrade ( recommended)
6.) Fuel pump and filter upgrades
7.) Injector upgrade ( depending on size, possible CP3 upgrade or bag of parts)
8.) Tranny or clutch upgrade
9.) Gauges of coarse Fuel pressure, Rail pressure, Egt, Tranny temp, 1 or 2 boost gauges, DP gauge setup to tune with
10.) Water injection kit ( I need this too)
11.) Coolant bypass

May have left something out that I have forgotten.

Here is the kicker, choose wisely or you will be doing it again. Compound Turbo's makes it easier and you will want something that spools quick. A 62/71/13ss dosen't have enough boost cruising while towing, it dosen't spool quick like some people would want you to believe....LOL

 

I'm building a rig right now for that power range and you don't even wanna know what I have in it so far....

Industrial Injection performance street/strip long block with cam, springs, balanced, polished, studded, girdled, all the good stuff. DDP 90 horse injectors, dragon flow 85% cp3, airdog2, fluiddamner, southbend dual disk clutch, Wilson thrasher intake manifold, Garrett stage 2 turbo and S475 diesel power source add a turbo Twin kit, I'll be running a tstR49AP and Smarty stack. I got my crate engine tuesday so it's all gonna go in next week....

 

Ok thanks guys. That really gives me something to think about. I may be setting my sights a little high at the moment but do want to build the truck up. Its paid off and all the play money is going straight to a truck fund. Lol. I may have to cut it back to 550 hp or so for now.

 

Prior to spending any money on the engine I would do a leak down test and a compression test. At least you know the condition of your engine prior to dumping in lots of money.

If you building an engine for an early CR 04, I would run at least QSB480 pistons and run the rings gaps right the box. QSB rings gaps are more than the dodge CR ring gaps. Install the 2nd ring upside down, that stops the typical 2nd ring breakage issues that you get in CR engines. I would also run 12v/24VP rods, with brand new connecting rods bolts. With the block/head decks straight and true, you could also get away with ARP425's, but measure piston protrusion.

The later years of 4.5-07 CR engines we run 12V rings

We also have had good luck running the VP water pumps on CR engines. but..