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12mm studs/bottom tapping?/info.- opinions please

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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 01:30 AM
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12mm studs/bottom tapping?/info.- opinions please

Hello. I have been reading on head studs. What is the scoop? I definitely am not willing to take the head off. I really enjoy keeping my truck on 4.4/level 9. So, 12mm standard ARP studs. Will that be everything I will ever need? After my AD150 is installed, I plan on upping to a good streetable turbo. Then I want 4000RPM valve springs. If I am going under the valve cover, that would be the time to do studs.

Any insight you all would be able to shed on head studs?

Also, what is up with the "New Age" ARP studs? They are over $1000.

Thanx.
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 05:10 AM
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All I know about the new studs is this.

http://www.performancedieselwarehouse.com/1286184.html

But, from what you are describing, the standard 12mm studs will be fine.
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 08:31 AM
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Thanx Cuminz.
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by jmccart
Hello. I have been reading on head studs. What is the scoop? I definitely am not willing to take the head off. I really enjoy keeping my truck on 4.4/level 9. So, 12mm standard ARP studs. Will that be everything I will ever need? After my AD150 is installed, I plan on upping to a good streetable turbo. Then I want 4000RPM valve springs. If I am going under the valve cover, that would be the time to do studs.

Any insight you all would be able to shed on head studs?

Also, what is up with the "New Age" ARP studs? They are over $1000.

Thanx.
I would thing standard would be fine... Mark and I are looking at doing the "new age" studs... once we get more info i will let you know...
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 10:25 AM
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I installed new age 625 studs in my truck this past weekend. They are high quality ( better be for the high price). I torqed them twice to 155 ftlbs and they feel a lot more sturdy at 155 compared to the old arp 2000s at 120. You will be fine with the 2000s though , that is all that is normally needed. Tim
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 10:30 AM
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Yep...my head and head gasket have been fine with good ole' regular 12 mm ARP's bottom tapped...up to 80 psi boost so far.
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 12:21 PM
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Thanx for the tips guys. Now, bottom tapping can be done w/o removing head, right?
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 12:26 PM
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man I would love to do the 625's but are they worth the extra cost??? I am all about over kill and it seems like the 625's would be great insurance??....if a guy did blow a HG with arp 2000's he would spend the money he saved by getting the 2000's on getting a new HG and doing the work over again right??
I just want to do it once and be done with it..... what do you think Tim and christen?? I guess Tim believes in them other wise he would not have installed them??? are the 625's what is needed to have 700-800hp and have it be reliable???
I know lots of guys have stock bolts or ARP2000's and have BIG hp..but is it going to last??

I want reliable big HP and I only want to do it once..
thanks for your advice
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jmccart
Thanx for the tips guys. Now, bottom tapping can be done w/o removing head, right?
yes you will need a tap that is 6" long. if you cant find one let me know.
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 12:38 PM
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From what I've seen, the standard ARP's are enough on a 3rd gen. They have a better head gasket to work with than the 2nd gens. Also, on mine, I didn't need to bottom tap. The studs all threaded in far enough (only a couple threads showing above the nuts when torqued). Now on my 2nd gen, bottom tapping was really necessary...
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 12:50 PM
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bottom tapping is not a must it just allows the studs to be placed all the way into the head for maximum threads on the studs.
as for the new age studs it is a different alloy and strength treatment that makes the material less ductile there for they don't stretch as easy. the new age studs push more towards the clamping strength of the 14mm studs but no drilling and tapping required.
i don't know the exact material properties of the new age vs the standard 12 mm studs but i wouldn't mind seeing the stress/strain curves for the tensile test and compare them.
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by skynyrd
bottom tapping is not a must it just allows the studs to be placed all the way into the head for maximum threads on the studs.
as for the new age studs it is a different alloy and strength treatment that makes the material less ductile there for they don't stretch as easy. the new age studs push more towards the clamping strength of the 14mm studs but no drilling and tapping required.
i don't know the exact material properties of the new age vs the standard 12 mm studs but i wouldn't mind seeing the stress/strain curves for the tensile test and compare them.
I chart like this???
http://www.centuryperformance.com/fastenermaterials.asp
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 01:18 PM
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Tim is shooting higher than me...

For us "normal" guys including lmills....

The regulars work great...if installed correctley.
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 01:27 PM
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thats a LOT of friggin $$
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Rpainter
yes you will need a tap that is 6" long. if you cant find one let me know.
I found one online. Cost around $25 shipped. If you want I'll look up the info. Easy job, just time consuming and doing 4,5, and 6 puts you in an awkward position laying across the engine. I was sore for a few days afterwards.
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