I searched and found the APPS reset and voltage adjustment procedures. I thought my 03 was drive by wire but on a search for my symptoms I kept seeing throttle cable references for the 03. So let me describe what my truck did today and hopefully someone can chime in with some words of wisdom. Thanks in advance.

This morning I got in and started my truck and started to get the ice off the windshield. When I got back in I notice the (service) engine light was still lit. I turned the truck off and did the 'key off, hold the odometer button and turnkey on' procedure and no codes show up. So I start it again and the light stayed on. When I tried to drive it I noticed at low speed the turbo seemed to be wanted to spool up seemingly at a lower RPM than usual (between 1500-2000) and when I pushed the clutch in to shift it fell on its face. It was like a door slammed it fell off so hard. Well I get out to the main road and more of the same, until I got to 60, my normal cruise speed. At 60 the truck became borderline unstable. It would just spool up and increase speed like I had gone WOT. I let off to stop the surge and it slammed on its face again. It would only maintain a steady speed via cruise control.

From a dead stop it acts like there is no power. Very slow to move the truck then the surge to top of the gear. This dead-surge-fall on face thing is through each gear. I also noticed while using the cruise the throttle pedal has no impact. I could floor it and the truck never responded, it just maintained the cruise speed.

I'm pretty sure it's a throttle positioning issue. I'm just wondering if the APPS reset will work or if there is a more specific procedure for a 03. And while I'm thinking about it is it drive by wire or is there a throttle cable on the 03s?

 

It might be your FCA My 03 would fall on its face then take off. It got worse and worse then I changed my FCA and it went away.

You might already know, but if you don't the FCA is on your injection pump (CP3) its the part the wire plugs into.

 

I can give that a look. When yours fell on its face did it at least respond the throttle input? Mine had a tiny window that it was operating in, almost like a light switch. it was weird to floor it and get no response.

 

HOwe about the fuel filter???? Been changed lately.

 

With the last oil change. About 2K miles ago.

So I'm guessing the APPS reset isn't valid for hte 03? I jusut don't want to waste my time trying it if its not even a valid procedure for the truck.

 

Hold off on doing any APPS adjusting just yet... First, Go to the firewall where the PCM is usually located. After you pull your battery cable(s) off, unclip each connector and spray some good "contact cleaner" on those plugs and connectors and re-insert. Do that a few times and spray one last time for good measure. Make sure the connectors are dry and plug everything back in, hook up the battery and go check it.

You will find on many ocassions that the connectors are prone to oxidation and break contact when they need it most. Then if that doesnt get you runnin, go forward with other stuff. Do the easy, cheap stuff first.

Let us know what happens.

db

 

Well I didn't see the last post and have already done the APPS reset. Didn't work. I've checked the Fuel filter to make sure it was plugged up or anything crazy like that.

I have no codes and I think thats the part making mae mad. Other than the MIL I've got nothing to work from.

I'll try to give a better description. First off, I'll admit some of this probably was the brightest to do but I wanted to know when it was doing what.

-It won't rev past 2500RPM. While in gear moving or free (clutch in). A couple times it free reved normally past 2500 toward 3K. But not very often.

-It feels like it has no power. From idle to ~1700RPM. I gear leaving a light it is painfully slow. Then it hits ~1800-2000 rpm and just takes off. Topping out at ~2300-2500. Hit the clutch and it falls flat and repeats the no power feeling.

- throttle pedal input seems to make no difference. On the floor gets no quicker reaction. It seems in maybe the first inch or 2 of travel gets the everything done. I can hold steady pressure like I'm cruise int he highway and it will take off and tun toward 80 with out me adjusting my foot.

- Cruise control is the only way to maintain a steady speed with out the lurching (feeling like turbo is spooling up slamming shut/off)

 

Please tell me I'm crazy. I've got the Dodge Service Manual for this truck. And it says the PCM is located on the right side of the truck FW under the cowl. Now I look in that area and I can see the bracket where something would go but there isn't a PCM there.

Now I thought I read somewhere in the book that the the PCM and ECM are for the Gas and Diesel trucks respectively. That could be the wrong accronyms. But I can actually put my hands on the ECM.

So what am I doing wrong guys. Is there a PCM and where the **** is it?

 

PCM is the Power Train Module, it takes the info from the APPS and tells the trans when to lock up the convertor, when to shift, the conditions to make those decisions. etc. like wide open throttle, part throttle, etc.

Fill in your signature box with your truck description and we can go from there.

The ECM is the Engine Control Module and it takes all those sensor inputs from MAP, fuel pressure, temps, etc. and makes decisions and sends data to the PCM where it decides when to shift, when to lock up the converter, etc.

Let us know more info on your rig so we can gather our collective knowledge and get you back runnin quick. and cheaply.

LoL

 

While I fumble and try to get my sig to show. Here is the info on the truck. Cept for a K&N drop in is bone stock. If you need more info let me know.

2003 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4
Quad Cab LB
5.9L Cummins HO
6 Speed manual

I kind of know what the PCM and ECM are. I remember earlier today reading in the service manual and it stated how one thing was for the gas and one for the Diesel. Granted it may not have been the PCM and ECM, I can't find it again. So I've failed the sanity check. Its all blurring together at this point.

I do know that where my service manual says the PCM is located, aint where it is on my truck. Sure there's a bracket there, but nothing else. Obviously its somewhere, but I couldn't locate it and I ran out of light.

 

If your MIL light is on, you should have some codes. Try turning the key on and off 3 times ( without starting ) and see if you get any codes. I believe the key on/odometer button is for instrument panel test.

 

You know I swear I'm not retarded. I was told after I bought the truck that the key trick wouldn't work and the you had to do the odo button and key. Granted it test the guages but at the end it shows C-Codes. I always have 00 00. I thought I tried the key thing to and thats why I believed the other way was correct.

But I went out anyway and tried the key thing. And gues what I have codes.

P2123
P0514
P0483

I'm really starting to hate today.

 

Sounds like APPS to me. 2122/2123 are APPS conformance codes.
0483 is for the fan. not sure about the 0514. When my APPS crapped out, I got 2122 and 2123. I had to do the reset 2 or 3 times and even then it only got me by for a another 3 days. If your going to replace your APPS and your not under warranty, Go through Cummins... Its half the price of Dodge.

 

P2123- Pedal Posistion Sensor 1 High

P0514- Battery Temp Sensor Performance Rationality

P0483-Cool Fan Speed

I'm guessing that all these threw today right? I mean I had the batteries disconnected for over 30 minutes, wouldn't that clear them?

 

I usually clear mine with smarty. before that, I'd leave the key on when the batteries were disconnected. Or remove the positive battery cables and touch the positive cable to the negative post to discharge any power the ECM is storing. Read the last one carefully, last time I told someone that, they said I was crazy for suggesting it. I think they were confused
BTW- my truck has had 0483 for 70,000 miles with no problems.